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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i began my dreaded water pump on a duramax journey almost 2 weeks ago. Coolant coming out of the weep hole, my buddies convinced me not to take it to a shop so here i am. Got everything apart, fan gave me a slight hiccup of trouble at first but got it off with a pry bar and hammer. Then came the harmonic balancer bolt, shoved a punch in the flywheel to hold the crankshaft from spinning. Wouldn’t recommend it, if you have the heads up and can wait for shipping i strongly suggest ordering the specific tool for it.
Anyways broke it loose, was tough but got it. Took the 2 water pump bolts out and 1 nut, nothing crazy. Then came the 2 nuts holding the outlet pipe to the water pump housing on the side of the motor. These are straight up not fun to get to. One you have to get at from under the motor and the other from the wheel well. Which means you also have to move the intercooler pipe on the side of the motor. So get those off, pump comes out. I notice the gasket they gave me for this hard to reach pipe is paper...i put it on very skeptically but hey maybe people know more than me.
Weld the new pump both sides of the shaft, good to go. Throw it in, everything goes back together fairly well.
Start it up, leaking horribly out of the o ring at the t-stat housing. My fault i guess, should have checked it stupid me.
Take the s*** apart again put new o rings on it(which by the way were very tough to find the right size at any parts store). Everything goes back together normal, start it up, idles for 15 minutes while i put tools away without a leak.
Sweet i got my truck back im gonna go around the country block. I almost get back home and: LOW COOLANT. Temps at 220. Pull it back in the garage and that paper gasket is leaking horribly from the outlet pipe on the side of the engine. After cursing a lot of cursing i take the s*** apart again and this time have to take the pump out again in order to get the gasket on the studs. The dealership gave me a METAL gasket now im sure this is gonna work. Just for good measure i got buy the black gasket maker/sealant to put on it! Cant lose now right?
I put a light coating on the gasket, stick it on the pump housing and get it mated up to the pipe. Torqued to “18 ft lbs” going by ugga tuggas because it is impossible to get a torque wrench in there. So everything goes back together again. Start the thing up, and theres a slow drip coming from that gasket still. Not nearly as bad, but still there. What gives? I cleaned the surface off good before i put the metal gasket on. Im out of ideas


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That is just bad luck, i think i hulked those bolts in there.

Also, easiest way to break that balancer bolt free is to hold a bar against the alternator (belt off off course) and then have someone just tap the ignition for a split second. Breaks it loose easy peasy. As frustrated as Im sure you are, remember that balancer bolt is a 1 time use jobber unless you have an ARP bolt, and unless you want bigger problems, 270ish ft.lbs. last thing you want is that balancer spinning and shearing that stupid pin

I did this a couple months back now, I know how much of a pita some of those bolts can be. Props for doing it multiple times. I wanna say my gasket was metal, no sealer put on it aside from the little silicone "pad" ring on both sides from the factory. Either it didnt like the silicone for some strange reason (lumpy silicone?) Or just not tight enough. I would just tighten the 2 bolts a little snugger and see what happens. Nothing to lose at this point just trying, right?
 

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If it was me I would in reason, hulk smash those two bolts if. If you tear it apart again put a little more gasket maker on than you usually would and let it sit for a few minutes almost curing all the way before you put it on.
 

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Just me here, but they make that metal gasket to work by itself with no sealer. I would use it bare, or a light coat of copper coat spray if you are dead set on using something. I've put more than a couple water pumps in and while I've had some issues with a couple, not near the issues it sounds that you have on this one.

Also, I bought a long 3ft handle 1/2in ratchet to use just for getting the balancer bolt off. Insert the flywheel lock tool, and it works like a charm. I wont name the brand because I break that ratchet EVERY DAMN TIME I use it for this, but it does have a lifetime guarantee, so I take it to the tool truck and they fix it
 
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I wont name the brand because I break that ratchet EVERY DAMN TIME I use it for this, but it does have a lifetime guarantee, so I take it to the tool truck and they fix it
:rofl
 

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I borrowed a (beast) 4' long 3/4" drive 600 lb ft torque wrench for it.....it still bowed a bit before the 'snap' loose. :teehee
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think my plan right now is to tighten those 2 nuts on the pipe a little more (the ones that hold the metal gasket) and drive the truck as is for awhile to see if the leak gets any worse or better. At this point im too frustrated to take it apart without a clear idea at what is causing the leak, at that point im just repeating the process and hoping for a different result. Its really too bad i have to take the whole damn water pump out in order to redo that gasket. If the metal gaskets were meant to stand alone I dont feel like the extremely light coat of sealer i used would cause any leaks for me. Now im scared about that balancer bolt because ive torqued it 2 times now in addition to them torqueing it from factory...although i did drive it after the first time i torqued it and hammered on it with no issues other than coolant leaking. And i also started the truck after i torqued it the second time. I just dont wanna go in tearing it apart again unless i have atleast a decent idea of what to do differently this time. I did order the tool that holds the flywheel or whatever though


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Just did mine this summer, I bought the Lisle socket and ring gear clamp set and used an S&K 3/4" T bar with a pipe for a handle. Get the kit, you won't regret it. Don't know where you are located but would be glad to loan you the kit, I hope I don't need to use it again.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just did mine this summer, I bought the Lisle socket and ring gear clamp set and used an S&K 3/4" T bar with a pipe for a handle. Get the kit, you won't regret it. Don't know where you are located but would be glad to loan you the kit, I hope I don't need to use it again.... :)


I only ordered the lisle socket, will that alone hold the flywheel? I don’t exactly know how it works? What is the gear clamp for?


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lisle sells a kit with the unique socket and the flywheel lock....that and a spanner wrench for the fan removal....all 'bout $50 on the zoid.

not recommended.....there's a whoToob vid where the guy uses a hammer and chisel on the fan. :rofl
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lisle sells a kit with the unique socket and the flywheel lock....that and a spanner wrench for the fan removal....all 'bout $50 on the zoid.

not recommended.....there's a whoToob vid where the guy uses a hammer and chisel on the fan. :rofl


Ok i feel better now. I just need something to hold the flywheel i can get the fan off no problem and i used a 1 and 7/16 socket to get the balancer bolt out.


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Just me here, but they make that metal gasket to work by itself with no sealer. I would use it bare, or a light coat of copper coat spray if you are dead set on using something. I've put more than a couple water pumps in and while I've had some issues with a couple, not near the issues it sounds that you have on this one.

Also, I bought a long 3ft handle 1/2in ratchet to use just for getting the balancer bolt off. Insert the flywheel lock tool, and it works like a charm. I wont name the brand because I break that ratchet EVERY DAMN TIME I use it for this, but it does have a lifetime guarantee, so I take it to the tool truck and they fix it

does the truck come in vomit yellow with Make Another Choice on the side?



I think my plan right now is to tighten those 2 nuts on the pipe a little more (the ones that hold the metal gasket) and drive the truck as is for awhile to see if the leak gets any worse or better. At this point im too frustrated to take it apart without a clear idea at what is causing the leak, at that point im just repeating the process and hoping for a different result. Its really too bad i have to take the whole damn water pump out in order to redo that gasket. If the metal gaskets were meant to stand alone I dont feel like the extremely light coat of sealer i used would cause any leaks for me. Now im scared about that balancer bolt because ive torqued it 2 times now in addition to them torqueing it from factory...although i did drive it after the first time i torqued it and hammered on it with no issues other than coolant leaking. And i also started the truck after i torqued it the second time. I just dont wanna go in tearing it apart again unless i have atleast a decent idea of what to do differently this time. I did order the tool that holds the flywheel or whatever though


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the flex plate lock works well. I did not replace my bolt on my 01, and it never failed, however the bolt should still be replaced as a stretch to yield bolt. You will not get the correct clamping force once the bolts been stretched the first time. I just slathered it in red lock tight and torqued it to 250 (top of my torque wrench scale) and a little extra for good measure. had about 30-40K on that bolt when i traded the truck in. That said, dont be me.... you should probably replace the bolt, especially after 3-4 torquings.
 

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For only 4 times more you could get it in blue point blue! I hear thats like sinister blue but more special. As an owner of the bluepoint version... if you cant laugh at yourself, who can you laugh at.



News to me.


Crankshaft Balancer Bolt, LB7 LLY LBZ LMM LML L5P, 2001-2018 Duramax

Part Number: 97329601
Torque to Yield Fastener. Should be replaced anytime bolt is removed.
https://www.merchant-automotive.com/97329601-Crankshaft-Balancer-Bolt-2001-2016.aspx


factory bolts are stretch to yield like the head studs are.




lisle sells a kit with the unique socket and the flywheel lock....that and a spanner wrench for the fan removal....all 'bout $50 on the zoid.

not recommended.....there's a whoToob vid where the guy uses a hammer and chisel on the fan. :rofl


Some times you just need BFH to get the job done though....

 

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Doesn't the direction of engine rotation.... always tighten that bolt?
 
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