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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on water pump replacement this weekend.
Trying to put together a list of parts I'll need. In no particular order here's what I have so far:
1. A few replacement body panel clips I'm sure I'll break/loose
2. All new idler pulleys
3. Serpentine belt
4. Anti freeze (how much?)
5. New tensioner
6. New crank pulley bolt (debatable but it's already ordered)
7. Stock or Red inj O-ring that goes on bypass tube (GM part number 94051259)?
8. AC/Delco "Professional" Water pump (not sure if I'll need with or w/o rear housing)
9. 2 big catch pans for coolant
10. ~4 inches 3/8" hose and new Ideal hose clamps (Gates fuel line work here?)
11. Flywheel blocking gizmo and 36mm 12pt socket kit (Lisle)
12. Giant 3/4" breaker bar + 4' cheater pipe
13. Something to get fan clutch off (I think I have this covered (no, not a chisel))

What else?

Refreshments are already covered..
 

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Planning on water pump replacement this weekend.
Trying to put together a list of parts I'll need. In no particular order here's what I have so far:
1. A few replacement body panel clips I'm sure I'll break/loose
2. All new idler pulleys
3. Serpentine belt
4. Anti freeze (how much?)
5. New tensioner
6. New crank pulley bolt (debatable but it's already ordered)
7. Stock or Red inj O-ring that goes on bypass tube (GM part number 94051259)?
8. AC/Delco "Professional" Water pump (not sure if I'll need with or w/o rear housing)
9. 2 big catch pans for coolant
10. ~4 inches 3/8" hose and new Ideal hose clamps (Gates fuel line work here?)
11. Flywheel blocking gizmo and 36mm 12pt socket kit (Lisle)
12. Giant 3/4" breaker bar + 4' cheater pipe
13. Something to get fan clutch off (I think I have this covered (no, not a chisel))

What else?

Refreshments are already covered..


Gasket maker/sealant for the gasket that connect the bottom of the water pump to the outlet pipe. Apply it to BOTH SIDES of the gasket and wait for it to dry and get tacky before putting it back on and tightening those two studs that are a royal PITA to get at. You dont want to take it apart again. To get the fan off i used a heavy duty pry bar that is meant to be hit with a hammer on one end. You may consider putting a “notch” in the fan nut in order to get a chisel or whatever tool you use to catch it instead of just sliding across it. Let me know if you have any questions im FRESH off of an install
Also something to do for peace of mind since you’re planning this in advance:the 36mm bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crank is apparently a one time torque to yield. So consider replacement. I did not replace mine and havnt had an issue nor have i heard of anyone else having an issue. But all I’m saying is mine is definitely getting replaced the next time it comes out (hopefully never)


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Item 4. 3 gals of 100%, 3 gals of distilled water to mix.

Item 8. I went with the GATES 43273, vs the ACDELCO 251748, either one as long as it's the complete unit (I figured Gates probably makes the OE one)

Item 13. LIS-43560 36 & 47/1-7/8" Turning Wrench

Item 14, should also include new T-stats with a new WP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thx for the replies guys.
#14 Ok on the thermostats (180* and 185*)
#15 Upper and lower radiator hoses (going with Conti since it appears to be most similar to original)

Water pump and radiator hoses won't arrive until next week. Pushing back project until next weekend.

How smooth did the O-ring on the bypass tube (@ thermostat housing) go for you guys? Wondering if I should order an extra o-ring since some have had issues cutting it during install. Saw another video where the guy slopped a bunch of Lubri-plate on the the O-ring/bypass tube to ease installation. Is that necessary? Anyone use the red injector cup O-ring in that application (GM part number 94051259)?

Thinking I can replace water pump, thermostats, coolant then re-install dampener (crank pulley) with old bolt. Then warm up and leak test before installing belt, fan, etc. Should be ok as long as I keep a close eye on water temp and shut down as soon as thermostat/s open. If all goes well, remove old crank pulley bolt and install new bolt, then re-assemble everything else.

I wasn't planning on removing hot side air pipe, but after seeing Hook'em's post abt various things rubbing holes in the alum pipe, might as well pull it and inspect. It should help with access to the 2 rearward facing nuts on the water pump outlet. I'll make that item # 16.

Updated checklist:
1. A few replacement body panel clips I'm sure I'll break/loose
2. All new idler pulleys
3. Serpentine belt (Gates green Kevlar belt)
4. Anti freeze (3 gals distilled water + 3 gals Dex-cool concentrate)
5. New tensioner
6. New crank pulley bolt (debatable but it's already ordered)
7. Stock or Red inj O-ring that goes on bypass tube (GM part number 94051259)?
8. Water pump (GATES 43273 OR ACDELCO 251748)
9. 2 big catch pans for coolant
10. ~4 inches 3/8" hose and new Ideal hose clamps (Gates fuel line work here?)
11. Flywheel blocking gizmo and 3/4" drive 36mm 12pt socket (Lisle kit)
12. Giant 3/4" breaker bar + 4' cheater pipe
13. Something to get fan clutch off (I think I have this covered (no, not a chisel))
14. Thermostats (180* and 185*)
15. Upper and lower radiator hoses (Continental brand looks like OEM 66118 and 66252)
16. Pull and inspect hot-side air tube for mechanical errosion from near-by parts rubbing)
17. Change eng oil if any antifreeze gets in crankcase during water pump removal
 

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Definitely pull the driver's side fender liner for lots of access room to everything on that side.

overheating....the pump is gear driven, so that's not going to happen with no drive belt in place.
 

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Thx for the replies guys.

#14 Ok on the thermostats (180* and 185*)

#15 Upper and lower radiator hoses (going with Conti since it appears to be most similar to original)



Water pump and radiator hoses won't arrive until next week. Pushing back project until next weekend.



How smooth did the O-ring on the bypass tube (@ thermostat housing) go for you guys? Wondering if I should order an extra o-ring since some have had issues cutting it during install. Saw another video where the guy slopped a bunch of Lubri-plate on the the O-ring/bypass tube to ease installation. Is that necessary? Anyone use the red injector cup O-ring in that application (GM part number 94051259)?



Thinking I can replace water pump, thermostats, coolant then re-install dampener (crank pulley) with old bolt. Then warm up and leak test before installing belt, fan, etc. Should be ok as long as I keep a close eye on water temp and shut down as soon as thermostat/s open. If all goes well, remove old crank pulley bolt and install new bolt, then re-assemble everything else.



I wasn't planning on removing hot side air pipe, but after seeing Hook'em's post abt various things rubbing holes in the alum pipe, might as well pull it and inspect. It should help with access to the 2 rearward facing nuts on the water pump outlet. I'll make that item # 16.



Updated checklist:

1. A few replacement body panel clips I'm sure I'll break/loose

2. All new idler pulleys

3. Serpentine belt (Gates green Kevlar belt)

4. Anti freeze (3 gals distilled water + 3 gals Dex-cool concentrate)

5. New tensioner

6. New crank pulley bolt (debatable but it's already ordered)

7. Stock or Red inj O-ring that goes on bypass tube (GM part number 94051259)?

8. Water pump (GATES 43273 OR ACDELCO 251748)

9. 2 big catch pans for coolant

10. ~4 inches 3/8" hose and new Ideal hose clamps (Gates fuel line work here?)

11. Flywheel blocking gizmo and 3/4" drive 36mm 12pt socket (Lisle kit)

12. Giant 3/4" breaker bar + 4' cheater pipe

13. Something to get fan clutch off (I think I have this covered (no, not a chisel))

14. Thermostats (180* and 185*)

15. Upper and lower radiator hoses (Continental brand looks like OEM 66118 and 66252)

16. Pull and inspect hot-side air tube for mechanical errosion from near-by parts rubbing)

17. Change eng oil if any antifreeze gets in crankcase during water pump removal


In my opinion it is nearly impossible to tighten those two nuts without taking the hot side pipe off anyways.
As to the O-ring on the bypass pipe: get lube lol and what i did to find the right size is i just took the pipe to my local auto parts store and asked them for the gasket kit to see which one fits best, I actually ended up using 2 thinner ones to cover the amount of area that needs to be covered because I didn’t feel comfortable using 1. Havnt had an issue yet


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guess I need some type of non-petroleum based O-ring lube for that bypass pipe. I have some cable lube left over from pulling wires thru conduit. Wounder it that stuff would work? Also have some o-ring lube for swimming pool plumbing. Humm.

Still waiting on monster breaker bar to arrive. Pulled fender liner and took a gander. Pulled off hot side pipe (only one minor rub spot) and could see the 2 nuts for the water pump outlet. The bottom nut looked pretty ominous. Then noticed the bracket that holds the eng mounted shroud (that was in the way) is only held on by 2 bolts. First bolt was a straight shot from the wheel well, the other bolt, more towards rear, is accessible with a swivel head 1/2" breaker from above. Now that the bracket is out of the way, I can get a box end wrench on those nuts no problem. Gave them a shot of penetrating oil for good measure and called it a day. Confidence is building.

In lower right corner of 1st pic, you can see one of the bolts that held the bracket. (I partially screwed it back in the hole so I won't loose it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
More progress today. Got the water pump replaced. Letting RTV dry overnight before I add coolant.

Notes from today:
If you're wanting to do a flush, do it before replacing water pump. Adding this to checklist.

Lower nut on water pump outlet: It is easier to reach from under truck. Assuming you have removed the skid plate. However removing the fan shroud bracket (shown prev) makes it really easy to get a box-end wrench on there. Applied Permatex red RTV on both side of gasket as mentioned prev. (It also states that in the water pump instructions if you are using the paper gasket that comes with pump)

If you have access to a lift, the crankshaft bolt is easy to access from the bottom. The 40" 3/4 breaker bar is a beast. Didn't even need a cheater bar.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4-Inc...222329&sr=8-1&th=1&tag=duramaxforumconvert-20

The Continental brand lower rad hose from the Rock isn't like the OEM. Pic is misleading. The one I got looks like the ACDelco / Gates. Multiple sections hose with plastic fittings and hose clamps. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What about using thread locker on the crankshaft pulley bolt?
I picked up some orange Locktite but haven't applied it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
That's what I was thinking. I've seen folks use the red Locktite on that fastener. That's gonna make it really difficult to remove next time.


In reference to the pic of water pump rear housing (internal) in my prev post, does the pitting cause any substantial degradation in performance? I went with the pump option that does not include the rear housing. Kinda wish I had went with complete pump assy now.
 

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Kinda wish I had went with complete pump assy now.
The few $$ saved isn't worth the extra hassle after you've finally reached/removed the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had already ordered the pump before removing and inspecting the current one. Not sure what to think of the pitting seen. Hard to believe air bubbles (cavitation) could cause that. Figured it's probably been like that for a long time so I'm not too worried about it.

Got her filled with coolant today and sure enough, had a running leak at the O-ring where the bypass tube goes inside the thermostat housing. Pulled by-pass tube and found O-ring was cut in half. Luckily I have a magic tool box that produced the exact O-ring I needed. Point here would be to get extra O-rings when ordering parts.

Got it back together this afternoon. Started her up without re-installing fan/clutch/shroud/belt or alternators. Connected a battery charger to keep voltage up and let her idle long enough to reach normal temp (thermostat opening) and no leaks. Yeah! Still waiting on alternators to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Tweaked checklist. Corrected size of rubber hose at water pump bypass tube. Added a couple of optional items. Still in no particular order.

1. A few replacement body panel clips to replace damaged/lost ones (optional)

2. All new idler pulleys (optional)

3. Serpentine belt (I used a Gates green Kevlar belt) (optional)

4. Anti freeze (3 gals distilled water + 3 gals Dex-cool concentrate)

5. New belt tensioner (optional)

6. New crank pulley bolt (technically should be replaced, but many don't) (optional?)

7. Stock or Red inj O-ring that goes on bypass tube (GM part number 94051259) Easy to damage, get spares.
Water pump kit may or may not include one. Varies with manuf/seller.

8. Water pump (GATES 43273 OR ACDELCO 251748)

9. 2 big catch pans for coolant (optional)

10. ~4 inches 1/2" hose and new Ideal hose clamps (I used Gates fuel line)

11. Flywheel blocking gizmo and 3/4" drive 36mm 12pt socket (Lisle kit)

12. Giant 3/4" breaker bar + 4' cheater pipe (may not need cheater with the right breaker bar)

13. Something to get fan clutch off. Lisle makes a tool for this. (I used a med sized pipe wrench)
You will need to remove at least 2 bolts connecting clutch to fan in order to fit pipe wrench in there.

14. Thermostats: 180* and 185*. Kit includes both. There is no thermostat gasket other then the rubber band on the thermostats themselves (at least with my 2007 LBZ) (optional)

15. Upper and lower radiator hoses (optional)

16. Inspect alum hot-side air tube for rubbing (needs to be removed anyway)

17. Change eng oil if any antifreeze gets in crankcase during water pump removal

18. Lots of thick cardboard for absorbing spills and cut out a piece to protect radiator while working in close proximity (optional, but highly recommended)

19. Removing grill (6 clips) and hood latch is a good idea. You can damage grill, latch can damage you! (optional)

20. O-ring lube for item #7.

21. Various sized screw-type hose clamps if you can't stand re-installing the factory spring type. Ideal and Breeze are my favs. (optional)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Picked-up alternators yesterday and re-assembled everything last night. Last item was re-installing plastic "skid plate?". While under there I noticed the connector that you have to disconnect when removing large idler pulley assy (where fan clutch attaches) was disconnected. Luckily I was able to re-connect from below without taking a bunch of stuff back off.

What is this connector for anyway? I inadvertently ran it without it being connected when leak checking. Had a few codes when it was all finished. I cleared them w/o really paying much attention. Codes didn't return.
 

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Awesome write up! My truck's got 215k on it and I don't know the history, so planning a water pump at some point next spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thx. Glad to be done with it.

I try not to disturb anything unrelated to what I'm working on but while re-installing the eng mounted fan shroud, I removed the plastic/rubber cool-side pipe down by the pass side bolt. What a huge difference that made (already removed the air filter assy and sub-frame piece below). Wish I would have done it in the beginning. Would have save me a lot of time and aggravation getting the fan shroud loose. The pipe is a little tough to get back on but still worth it.

My old truck (95 C2500 ECLB 454 4X2 230K) left me semi stranded twice. First time was the tensioner, second time was an idler pulley. That was my motivation to replace them while I was in there this time.
 

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Do you have to use distilled water ?

Bearwolf50
 
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