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Detailed the interior and sprayed down the entire carpet with Scotchgard to keep my kids from destroying it. Starting troubleshooting some CEL codes (P0380 / P0540 / P1404). Seems to be possibly be related to some chewed up wires. I opened up another thread to get some advice on how to resolve.
 

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Sold it

 

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Bought a fuel filter housing rebuild kit after it stalled on me for the first time ever after sitting up for a couple weeks.




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My LBZ went into reduced engine power mode this morning.

Pulled out the scan tool and found p2138 - accelerator pedal position sensor.

Unplugged the connector blew it out with some compressed air and lubed it up. REP went away and I drove it for about 30 miles with no problems.

I'll get a replacement ordered and ready to go whenever it acts up again. My neighbor who owns a shop priced it out at $62.





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Rebuilt my fuel filter housing after it stalled on me last week.

Took about 40 minutes total. Now the truck starts much quicker and NO more hand pumping.....
 

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Lowered my step bars 2" to make them more usable.

Bought 6 2" body lift pucks and longer bolts. Put the pucks between the cab and the step bar mounts and torqued them down.

Much better!!!
 

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I've been thinking about a way to move my nerfbars either down or out a tad... I'm not able to picture what you described, can you snap a pic?

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Put these between the step bar mount and the body / cab with longer bolts. Black steps pics are after and the chrome one is before.

Cost about $70 and a couple hours for removal, clean up, paint and reinstall.
 

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I went to double check how these mount so I could picture it. For those who are inside: it looks like this would be super easy.
Great idea, theheder


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Thanks. Really helps my kids get in and out.
 

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Replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor to resolve reduced engine power message and P2128 & P2138 codes.



 

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Cut open the cabin air filter access hole to install the cabin air filter and cover on my 2007 Silverado. I cleaned out a bunch of debris and dirt out of there by using my air nozzle and shop vac. After I installed the filter and buttoned everything back up I tested the air flow from the vents to find that it was very low output.

After driving it around for a few hours in 30* weather with the fan on the highest setting and low volume of air flow I pulled the filter out and tossed it in the trash. At the end of the day I basically paid @$40 online for the access hole cover and a cleaning out of the fins in the heater core. And wasted about 1.5 hours screwing around with it.
 

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First 95* day this year.

AC wasn't cooling so I added some freon.

Compfessor kicked in and started cooling, so I will be checking for leaks.
 

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Replaced two cracked and leaky heater core hose connectors (Dorman 800-409) also a leaky AC service port (Dorman 800-955) that had a flattened / bad oring. Then recharged the system.

No coolant leaks on the driveway and icy cold AC this morning on the way to Bojangles.




Next is to pull the driver's side fender liner and repair the washer tank connector / line that sprays fluid under the hood onto the headlight. Barely any fluid gets on the windshield the way it is now.
 

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Did the evap coil cleaning. Greatly improved the air flow that I was missing!

One recommendation I have is to put some paper towels in front of the vents right after the cleaning because all kinds of debris flew out. Including some sticky black foam particles that surround the vents where they pivot.


 

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Flushed and changed my coolant since it is starting to get little cold in central NC.

I had replaced 2 leaky heater core connectors on the firewall over the summer, but only refilled with distilled water while I was making sure that the leaks were fixed.

3 months and no leaks, so in goes the antifreeze.
 

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Um, three months is a long time to go without corrosion protection. Let's just hope it isn't too long. I wouldn't recommend more than a couple of days but it's your truck.
Agreed.

There was coolant still mixed in and it was still pink when I drained it.

I only added about 3/4 gallon of distilled water after replacing the connectors.
 

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Started troubleshooting a low speed shudder on acceleration. Logged in here to see what the experts have seen / done.

Looks like I will be inspecting my u joints, carrier housing bushing and bearing to start with. Hopefully it is not the early signs of torque converter failure - my 2007 LBZ has @340k miles on it.
 

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Check the motor mounts but.....

Shudder is more of a drive train issue like u-joints. It is at a lower speed/frequency than a vibration due to the lower speed of the drive shaft, t-case and axles.

It could also be a bad injector which can cause a misfire that feels like a shudder.
I did check the u-joints, carrier bushing and the drive shaft - didn't find anything interesting.

Now that I think about it a bit more - could be a bad motor mount.

Any suggestions on how to "easily" test those? Rev the engine and watch for the engine shifting up / down?

I don't see any signs of damage to the hood liner. Could it even shift that much?
 

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Put these between the step bar mount and the body / cab with longer bolts. Black steps pics are after and the chrome one is before.

Cost about $70 and a couple hours for removal, clean up, paint and reinstall.
I recently noticed some squeaking when I used the modded / lowered driver's side step. Shot some WD-40 on the flat washers and pucks. Instantly gone!
 

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Laid out of work today and finally got around to diagnosing and repairing the windshield washer leak on Great White. Discovered the hose that runs from the pump up to the wipers had a hole in it. Looks like over the years it vibrated against the battery and just wore through. So I pulled the battery out of the way and used some vacuum hose and clamps to repair the line.



Also put some AC dye with stop leak in to see if I can find my ultra slow freon leak. This is the dye that you don't need a UV light for and shows up bright red at the leak if it doesn't seal it up. Fingers crossed......



Then I replaced some ancient brittle under hood wire looms that were disintegrating with the slightest touch.



Took a break for lunch and decided washing my bike before heading out for a ride.

 
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Pulled out the faulty ambient air temperature sensor and ordered a new one. It was 83 degrees here yesterday and it was reading 112 in the mirror.

$3.81 shipped on Amazon.

For reference on my LBZ it was mounted right behind the passenger headlight. I pulled the grill looking for it but it can be reached from underneath if you know where to look.

 
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