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When installing tracbars, is it best to match the driveshaft angle or have them longer? I’m just stuck deciding how long I want these bars. They are just mocked up right now. I’d prefer a more comfortable ride. Any input from the board?
 

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Besides what your thinking possible fuel line collapsing, what’s the condition of your airfilter, clean - dirty ?
What’s the MAF numbers idling, what’s the MAP reading compared to BARO PSI idling? Dirty MAF and MAP all of these could cause hesitation.

Whats the max boost number can you hit ?
Knowing the actual fuel pressure out of your liftpump and your fuel rail pressures idling and accelerating would help.
 

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Got my Boostauto.com tow mirrors installed. Happy with the look of them, and install was pretty straight forward. I opted for the high output reverse lights, which are quite bright, and I think will come in handy. The front marker lights/switch back blinkers are tinted. Just wish my camera would pick up the halo kit better, it always has a pinkish hue and looks washed out, but good (IMO) in person.


I like those mirrors! How bad was it to wire the reverse lights into them?

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Got my Boostauto.com tow mirrors installed. Happy with the look of them, and install was pretty straight forward. I opted for the high output reverse lights, which are quite bright, and I think will come in handy. The front marker lights/switch back blinkers are tinted. Just wish my camera would pick up the halo kit better, it always has a pinkish hue and looks washed out, but good (IMO) in person.







Now they just need to be leveled! Look good though.


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Installed a 60 Gallon Diesel Aux tank in my 2017 Silverado 2500HD Duramax.

Still need to design and build a fuel management system to show level of tank in cab and automate transfers into main tank.
 

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Got quoted 2400 for a full rebuild on my 4l60e. Includes new t-case and rear diff fluid, new rear main seal, and warranty.

Still hurts to hear
 

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Installed a 60 Gallon Diesel Aux tank in my 2017 Silverado 2500HD Duramax.

Still need to design and build a fuel management system to show level of tank in cab and automate transfers into main tank.
How do you plan to fill it? Through the window? Or does the main tank pump it up?
 

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How do you plan to fill it? Through the window? Or does the main tank pump it up?
I'm going to cut a filler neck through the cap.

It will then fill the main tank using gravity. I have a solenoid valve that will control flow. I'm designing it so I can tell the fuel management system how much to transfer and it will shut off when it sees that much transferred.

I modified the simple visual fuel gauge that came with the tank so I can read it electronically.
 

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I like those mirrors! How bad was it to wire the reverse lights into them?
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Wiring was really easy. Here's my How To Video I put together for my YouTube channel:

Now they just need to be leveled! Look good though.
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Yeah, I'm still debating the leveling of them. Honestly, they don't really bother me as is, but I agree they look really good leveled too. My biggest concern is, that when you put the spacer in to level them, it takes the resistance off that holds them in place, and when I telescope them out to tow my trailer, I'm unsure if it'll have too much leverage and a strong gust of wind will constantly push the mirrors out of place. Still deciding.
 

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Wiring was really easy. Here's my How To Video I put together for my YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89NbMB5BUIs&t=



Yeah, I'm still debating the leveling of them. Honestly, they don't really bother me as is, but I agree they look really good leveled too. My biggest concern is, that when you put the spacer in to level them, it takes the resistance off that holds them in place, and when I telescope them out to tow my trailer, I'm unsure if it'll have too much leverage and a strong gust of wind will constantly push the mirrors out of place. Still deciding.
That is a very nice how to video. And that is a very clean truck you have there!

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On my way home I was accelerating to pass somebody and got to thinking about why my truck does this: if I roll into the throttle while just cruising down the road, say at 40 or 50 mph, the boost pressure actually drops down instead of goes up. The truck has done this forever but I just thought that's how it is. But when I really get into it or floor it then the truck downshifts and builds boost like normal. Why would this be? Every other diesel I've driven the boost rises while accelerating, but mine will drop to 1 psi. Boost leak? What to check? Already had a bellow blow out on the up pipe but it had this issue before that, and I have since fixed it.


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do you monitor vane position? I have something that happens similar to you, and when it does, my vanes go from say maybe 50 to 70 percent to about 0 percent, and of course my boost goes from maybe 3-5psi to 0-1psi
 

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Besides what your thinking possible fuel line collapsing, what’s the condition of your airfilter, clean - dirty ?
What’s the MAF numbers idling, what’s the MAP reading compared to BARO PSI idling? Dirty MAF and MAP all of these could cause hesitation.

Whats the max boost number can you hit ?
Knowing the actual fuel pressure out of your liftpump and your fuel rail pressures idling and accelerating would help.
Thanks for the reply... Air filter is clean and I cleaned the MAF sensor last year when I put the Banks intake on. Pretty sure the MAP sensor is good also as I messed with that during the EGR delete. And I know it's not fuel related because actual vs desired rail pressure is always pretty much spot on. I was just comparing what it felt like when it happens when I used the fuel line analogy (it's like someone is pinching the boost tubes). If I really get onto the pedal, I can hit 30 psi. That's why it's so weird, because it only happens under NORMAL driving and acceleration. Just loses boost as soon as I press the throttle more instead of builds up, so it's complete opposite of what a turbo should do.

do you monitor vane position? I have something that happens similar to you, and when it does, my vanes go from say maybe 50 to 70 percent to about 0 percent, and of course my boost goes from maybe 3-5psi to 0-1psi
I used to monitor vane position, but since my CTS touch screen has been messed up I haven't changed the gauges in a good while (I can't navigate through the CTS anymore so I just leave it where it's at). But yes your issue sounds just like mine!! I wonder if it's in the tuning. Do you have PPEI by chance??
 

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What’s important is that the MAP is reading within 1.0 of the BARO PSI from the vehicles computer.
You probably won’t have the same BARO numbers I do, but these numbers need to be from what your vehicles computer is reading.
Thinking everything is working properly, doesn’t always work, like one would hope for.

I’m pretty sure if you give Edge a phone call they could get your CTS working properly.

What HP tune are you running, mild - crazy wild?
It’s possible that with a big tune PPEI might have defueled enough that it’s causing this fall on its face lag.
 

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Servicing the rear brakes on the Dirtymax, noticed a noise last week when towing. So im in the process of knocking off all the rust on the rear brakes, and lubing the slides. But guess what...both lower slides were seized solid, driver side came off after a long fight, but the passenger slide is stuck on there good and i sent it to work with my buddy to get removed.

Im only doing this so that the dealer doesn't tell me it's brakes when i ask them to tear apart my rear axle.
 

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Washed the dirty girl. Three straight weekends of multi hundred to thousand mile roads trips left it very dirty.


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Just put the new bumper on helped me gain more clearance for the new wheels and tires w/out adding a lift (since I can't lift it with the current garage clearance).
 

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What’s important is that the MAP is reading within 1.0 of the BARO PSI from the vehicles computer.
You probably won’t have the same BARO numbers I do, but these numbers need to be from what your vehicles computer is reading.
Thinking everything is working properly, doesn’t always work, like one would hope for.

I’m pretty sure if you give Edge a phone call they could get your CTS working properly.

What HP tune are you running, mild - crazy wild?
It’s possible that with a big tune PPEI might have defueled enough that it’s causing this fall on its face lag.
Thanks for the response. I should also add that when the trucks engine temp is cold (driving after first start up) the boost builds fine, its only after the engine is warm does this happen, which is within 5-10 minutes of driving. But to answer your question, I am running a street tune but they are built trans tunes so I would say maybe 120HP. I will try to mess with my CTS again to view those parameters. Can my Autocal do that also ?

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This morning:


  • Got my CTS2 mounted per this thread. Perfection. Thank you to the OP.

  • Greased the chassis per this thread. Took me a couple minutes to find the upper idler arm zerk. Got all 9 eventually, though! Many thanks to the OP.


This forum delivers.
 
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