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Son and I took the 2011 up in Ohio Saturday the 23rd to pickup his new Miller 400 pro welder.
 

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Looks like you never got a reply on this so I'll chime in...
I appreciate the time and detail of your reply, however I was looking for feedback on the angle of my traction bars primarily. The 5" blocks I have are tapered which keeps the pinion angle "healthier" so to speak. I'm not looking to alter any driveshaft or rear axle angles. Due to the range of motion of the suspension in the rear end, the angle of my traction bars is important to keep this natural movement from binding.

After speaking with Ruff Stuff, they recommended matching the driveshaft angle to the best of my ability. They stated that would provide the least restrictive angle for my application and allow the suspension to articulate as designed.
 

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Getting ready for a 3 week camping trip to AZ and NM. Lots of hills my truck has not yet experienced so I thought Id do my best to insure no heating and power problems. To that end I:

1. Replaced both 1/2" rubber fuel lines with 1/2" blue fuel hose. The lower one bey the tranny was easy. The upper one was the worst, it was clearly kinked, which is why I started the process in the first place.

It necessitated removing the tire, fender liner, and left intercooler pipe to access the hose. NOT difficult, just a Dmax.

2. Took my cooling stack apart and cleaned it with air and fresh water.

Just before we leave I will change the oil&filter and the fuel filters, lube the front end and be ready to go.
Just in time for Az to warm up a little more, with warm welcoming to our sunshine (hotbox) state.>:)
Wishing you safe travels :thumb
 

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Its when your engine is idling you want those numbers, the MAP will jump up as your driving.
I would drive around a while on a lower HP tune and see what happens, and how everything reacts.
Big tunes are not always the better choice.
Yeah, I'm starting to think it's gotta be a boost leak somewhere in the system, but on the other hand that doesn't explain why I have full boost under 3/4 or full throttle.

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new wheels.... 20x12 rbps on 420s.. never have had a street tire on my last truck or this one but digging the look



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Looks good hows them CV angles?

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Looks good hows them CV angles?

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not terrible, i didnt touch the bars... its sitting how it was when i bought it on what i beleive was 9 wide wheels and 285/65s so previous owner shouldnt have had to raise the front too far.. I’ll take a pic tomorrow


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Getting ready for a 3 week camping trip to AZ and NM. Lots of hills my truck has not yet experienced so I thought Id do my best to insure no heating and power problems. To that end I:

1. Replaced both 1/2" rubber fuel lines with 1/2" blue fuel hose. The lower one bey the tranny was easy. The upper one was the worst, it was clearly kinked, which is why I started the process in the first place.

It necessitated removing the tire, fender liner, and left intercooler pipe to access the hose. NOT difficult, just a Dmax.

2. Took my cooling stack apart and cleaned it with air and fresh water.

Just before we leave I will change the oil&filter and the fuel filters, lube the front end and be ready to go.
Whats your tow rig?
Sounds like your about ready to go. :smile2:
AZ and NM gets really warm this time of year.
 

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Yeah, I'm starting to think it's gotta be a boost leak somewhere in the system, but on the other hand that doesn't explain why I have full boost under 3/4 or full throttle.

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You wouldn’t make 30 if you had a boost leak.
I still suggest trying a lower HP tune for a while.
Your tuner might have a little excessive de-fueling in the big tunes, which can cause weird issues. Something to ask your tuner.
 

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I think I would have a good look at the sensor data when the boost goes away. Particularly the vane position sensor. I think something is causing the ECM to think it should lower the boost. If all of the sensor data looks plausible then it has to be something in the tune.
 

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not terrible, i didnt touch the bars... its sitting how it was when i bought it on what i beleive was 9 wide wheels and 285/65s so previous owner shouldnt have had to raise the front too far.. I’ll take a pic tomorrow


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Couldn't quite get a picture, but saw a NBS 2500hd vortec this morning on the freeway, pulling a loaded tandem dump trailer, no big deal.
Except I noticed 'cause I heard a tinkling sound. He had the safety chains hooked onto each other, laying on the ball mount, no connection whatsoever to the truck. They had sagged over to one side, so one was dragging on the pavement.

Not exactly safe; not exactly legal.

Always check your gear!

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Saw one yesterday, didn't have any stop lights. Looked over sittin' at the red light, the trailer wire harness was coiled around the jack, not hooked up. Made me wonder, "what are ya gonna do with some weight in it?"
 

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Yeah, I'm starting to think it's gotta be a boost leak somewhere in the system, but on the other hand that doesn't explain why I have full boost under 3/4 or full throttle.

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Sorry I forgot to reply but it looks like some of the other blokes have, I agree I reckon you should be getting you hands on a decent scan tool and watching the current data when it happens.
That should direct you to what's making the issue.
Like they say at least you can see the vane position.
Has it got any codes?
Sorry if you have already said so, I missed a few posts
 

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Couldn't quite get a picture, but saw a NBS 2500hd vortec this morning on the freeway, pulling a loaded tandem dump trailer, no big deal.
Except I noticed 'cause I heard a tinkling sound. He had the safety chains hooked onto each other, laying on the ball mount, no connection whatsoever to the truck. They had sagged over to one side, so one was dragging on the pavement.

Not exactly safe; not exactly legal.

Always check your gear!

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Most likely if its one of the newer hitches, then the hooks did not fit and he just said screw it. I need to change the hooks on both the camper and utility trailer so they fit, or put in shackles to hook the chains to. Automotive engineers did not think that one all the way through. should have put 2 anchor points on there for chains or made them fit the standard hooks that come on campers and other trailers.
 

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Ya, my Curt class V CD hitch is similar, I bought 50ton shackles on Amazon for a couple tens of dollars, mostly solved that problem, they just live attached at all times, so I'm always ready.

... And, "oh shoot, I can't hitch this safely or legally" should give people pause, I would think
Most likely if its one of the newer hitches, then the hooks did not fit and he just said screw it. I need to change the hooks on both the camper and utility trailer so they fit, or put in shackles to hook the chains to. Automotive engineers did not think that one all the way through. should have put 2 anchor points on there for chains or made them fit the standard hooks that come on campers and other trailers.
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