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got in this morning and have lots of interior lights out. so far, it seems the seat heater (at least when using back-only driver), the DIC and the climate control. the seat heater did actually get hot, and the climate control works, but with no lights for either. I wouldn't know if the DIC is working, but the volume button does.

Could be other things out too (exterior, dome, speedo, etc), I didn't look too carefully.

Hoping it's just a fuse, which I'll replace before heading home, but was curious if anyone knows anything off the top of their head.

No recent work done except a front-end lube and fluid top off before our camping trip a week ago. I picked up some material from the lumber yard yesterday, but that seems unrelated. Of course...the almost-3-year-old was playing around in the truck while loading the material...
Is it possible the dial for brightness got messed with by the kiddo? I did that once by accident. Was wiping down interior while detailing truck, fired it up and no DIC, back lights, radio etc. Freaked me out, and of course went immediately to fuses, etc. Then realized I had just turned off the lights via the dial when wiping things down. Just a thought.

I had the same thought about the dimmer. When a bunch of lights go out at the same time it seems likely that it is something like this. I know my grandkids will turn any knob, push any button and pull any lever they can get to. I had the power strip for my computer setup under the monitor and had to move it up on the back of the desk because not only was it convenient for me where it was but it was accessible to all of the little fingers also.
 

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The strap on the inflating tire has a fine line between enough for success or too much for failure. These tires are the industrial tread pattern so they are fairly flat across and the strap tricks works pretty easy for them. :grin2:

I want to try the "boom" trick to inflate one, but I am not drinking when I do this. I am usually alone. So I do not have anyone around to tell them to hold my beer and y'all watch this. There is enough stupid crap that comes out of Alabama and i do not want to contribute any more than I already do.;angel
 

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The strap on the inflating tire has a fine line between enough for success or too much for failure. These tires are the industrial tread pattern so they are fairly flat across and the strap tricks works pretty easy for them. :grin2:

I want to try the "boom" trick to inflate one, but I am not drinking when I do this. I am usually alone. So I do not have anyone around to tell them to hold my beer and y'all watch this. There is enough stupid crap that comes out of Alabama and i do not want to contribute any more than I already do.;angel
Had to use the boom trick on some 3 wheeler tires this weekend. I like things that go boom just not so close.
 

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Had to use the boom trick on some 3 wheeler tires this weekend. I like things that go boom just not so close.

I've used it a few times. It's a good way to remove your eyebrows and the hair on your arms but it works to seat a bead too. You have to be quick with the air hose though or it will collapse back in.
 

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There’s nothing like the fear of an explosion in your face and the smell of burnt hair and hot rubber. Now I know how all my past girlfriends felt.
 

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Get a bucket of tire soap, and use it to pack in around the bead and the tire.

Throw some air to it, and the soap usually allows it to build enough pressure for the tire to reach the bead. Seat the beads and then scrape your soap off and save for later.

Used this many times, much safer and works better than the boom method, though will admit have done that a couple times.

Videos on YouTube showing the procedure too.
 

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Truck needs ball joints, tie rods and alignment. Asked for quotes from a few places I’ve used before and one based on recommendations. Only got one estimate back so far for $1600. Seems high. I asked if that was OEM or if not what brand parts and haven’t heard back. What brand would you all suggest? OEM or what aftermarket brand? Truck is stock ride height...

2007 Sierra Classic 2500 4x4
 

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Truck needs ball joints, tie rods and alignment. Asked for quotes from a few places I’ve used before and one based on recommendations. Only got one estimate back so far for $1600. Seems high. I asked if that was OEM or if not what brand parts and haven’t heard back. What brand would you all suggest? OEM or what aftermarket brand? Truck is stock ride height...

2007 Sierra Classic 2500 4x4
I went kyptonite tierods, or you can do rare parts which are good as well. I also went with MAS ball joints, the rugged series. 1600 seems way high IMO. Just do it your self.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

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Moog is the major aftermarket brand of choice. There are some custom brands but they cost a lot more for not much improvement in the part. Moog has two lines. There is the good stuff and the Chinese stuff. Be sure you are talking about the good stuff or you might as well buy a parts store house brand. You can look up the part numbers on RockAuto.

As far as house brands go NAPA probably has as good as anyone.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2007,silverado+2500+classic,6.6l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1434858,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

Tie rod ends are easy. Ball joints are tough. You may need a press to get them out of the control arm.

A complete control arm with the ball joint installed is not a lot more than the ball joint itself. Certainly if it saves you $1200 in labor it would be a good deal to do the whole control arm.

I can't see spending more than $700 on high quality parts if you DIY.

Not only will you save a bunch of money but you will have pride of workmanship too and the satisfaction of knowing that you didn't get ripped off.

If you don't have the tools now is the time to get them. The first thousand worth is free right now.
 

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We have rebuilt 2 1500's in the past couple of years. I went with the complete control arm since it is all new with no stress of installing ball joints.
I used ACDelco professional series. I think we used some Moog on the first truck.

My 2500 will probably get the ACDelco Pro parts when I rebuild it. Mine is stock but gets some heavy off road banging around.
 

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I went kyptonite tierods, or you can do rare parts which are good as well. I also went with MAS ball joints, the rugged series. 1600 seems way high IMO. Just do it your self.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


Appreciate the info. Yeah I’m probably going to do myself. Just need to make time to do it...
 

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Moog is the major aftermarket brand of choice. There are some custom brands but they cost a lot more for not much improvement in the part. Moog has two lines. There is the good stuff and the Chinese stuff. Be sure you are talking about the good stuff or you might as well buy a parts store house brand. You can look up the part numbers on RockAuto.

As far as house brands go NAPA probably has as good as anyone.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2007,silverado+2500+classic,6.6l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1434858,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

Tie rod ends are easy. Ball joints are tough. You may need a press to get them out of the control arm.

A complete control arm with the ball joint installed is not a lot more than the ball joint itself. Certainly if it saves you $1200 in labor it would be a good deal to do the whole control arm.

I can't see spending more than $700 on high quality parts if you DIY.

Not only will you save a bunch of money but you will have pride of workmanship too and the satisfaction of knowing that you didn't get ripped off.

If you don't have the tools now is the time to get them. The first thousand worth is free right now.


Thanks for the info. I don’t have the ball joint press tools but I can borrow them from my cousin. But I have bought tools in the past with the money I saved doing work myself. It’s smart...
 

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We have rebuilt 2 1500's in the past couple of years. I went with the complete control arm since it is all new with no stress of installing ball joints.

I used ACDelco professional series. I think we used some Moog on the first truck.



My 2500 will probably get the ACDelco Pro parts when I rebuild it. Mine is stock but gets some heavy off road banging around.


Thanks. I need to get online after work and get some parts ordered...
 

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After putting the new front end on her i just upgraded to Toyo Xtreme A/T II 315/75/r16 from 285/75/r16. 2" taller as it should be.
 

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^^^^^I should rephrase that to a new complete rebuilt front end. All new parts as i posted a few days back. What a difference. Its pretty awesome. I am going on a 2000 mile round round trip up through Idaho. So this all comes just in time.
 

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Changed out headlight housings for some custom ones I built. They have a morimoto mini H1 7.0(courtesy of @LML6600DMAX), and some rigid d-ss pro spot for high beams.
housings.jpg
truck.jpg
 

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