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What you need is more miles on the truck so that the transmission can adapt. If you would like to drop it by my house and leave it for a few months I'll take care of the problem for you.

Alternatively you could drive it hard and make it adapt. For some of these there is a fast learn mode that the dealer can put it in. In that mode it adapts faster than it normally would.
 

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Two months old, 1285 miles on it! Left it sit, can't stand the jerky Allison that my dealer says is normal!


2019? I’m at 8200 and it’s not gotten any better. Drives me nuts. Tow haul helps a ton. Dealer told me same damn thing. I call bullshit


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2019? I’m at 8200 and it’s not gotten any better. Drives me nuts. Tow haul helps a ton. Dealer told me same damn thing. I call bullshit


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Brock, Scott has built trans for the L5P's

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Ran tune 5 on the ol smokey knockin LBZ for about 80 mile this morning. Forgot how much I like instant boost:grin2:
 

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That inlet turbo cooling hose is actually 7/16” ID hose, 3/8” will work but you’ll have to stretch it over the fittings.
I found using soapy water helps.
Also consider changing the turbo outlet cooling hoses, one is a 90* 7/16” molded hose on top of the engine another I uses a straight 7/16” ID hose located around the water pump area.
Both the straight 7/16 ID hose and the 7/16” 90* hose are available at GM.
At least having the proper 7/16” ID 90* hose would be more important.
I found one, on top of the engine leading from the crossover pipe (and what is probably a thermostat) back to the turbo. It appears to be straight and about 6" long. I have to pull the resonator and disconnect the hot side intercooler pipe to get at both ends of it.

I did the Sinister EGR delete which provided a small "U" shaped hose to connect the outlet of the heater core to the pipe I thought went to the rear of the turbo. It used to go to the EGR cooler first but that part is in my shop.

There is other down near the WP?
 

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There is other down near the WP?
The beginning of the coolant supply to the turbo, begins at #16 pipe @ the WP.
That small tube in the middle of #16 pipe is where the 4" in length rubber hose (crossover) attaches.

With the front off, when replacing the water pump, that #16 comes off and the WP comes with 3 seals, #20 being one. #17 does not (you'll need one of those if you do your WP).

Easily replaced when doing the WP....not so much in trying to reach (or even see) thru and below everything on the engine front, with everything in place.
 

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lmm turbo outlet coolant hoses
#9 is what I’m referring to.
The inlet you’ll need to remove the resonator which you already know.
On the inlet if you use 3/8” make sure you coat the line and nipple with plenary of soapy water.
Make you line long enough to slide all the way towards the turbo, then connect it and slide on the nipple from the upper radiator hose.

To get to #9 remove that 4” 90* elbow from your airbox to the turbo.
 

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Had the ABS light come on for the first time in the 5 years I've owned the truck. Wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary, just came on while driving down the road. Any ideas on what to look at first? Truck seems to be driving and braking normal.
 

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Check you front hubs for play
They're both fairly new, within a few years, but I will check. I do have larger, wider wheels/tires but nothin crazy big. When the hubs were bad before I never got the light which is concerning lol. Guess it's hit or miss on if it detects or not?
 

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Had the ABS light come on for the first time in the 5 years I've owned the truck. Wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary, just came on while driving down the road. Any ideas on what to look at first? Truck seems to be driving and braking normal.
Yes, I know the first thing to look at. Get a freakin scanner and read the code. The whole point of having onboard diagnostics is to tell you what is wrong. Why ask us, who have no idea what is up with your truck, before asking the computer which has already decided what is wrong?
 

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Yes, I know the first thing to look at. Get a freakin scanner and read the code. The whole point of having onboard diagnostics is to tell you what is wrong. Why ask us, who have no idea what is up with your truck, before asking the computer which has already decided what is wrong?
I was born at night, but not last night sir. CTS or autocal would only pull the recurring glow plug codes and an ECM/TCM error. Now that doesn't tell me too much does it?

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After parking in a few wet parking lots today I noticed oil spots where I had driven.
Apparently one of the trans lines started to leak where it rotted through. I don't drive it much lately. It's good I drove it today in the wet and noticed because it's a pretty good leak while running.
Ordered a replacement line and another Bose amp as mine shit the bed months ago. Has an 'open when cold' somewhere in it.

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I was born at night, but not last night sir. CTS or autocal would only pull the recurring glow plug codes and an ECM/TCM error. Now that doesn't tell me too much does it?

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No it doesn't and neither would a radar scanner. You need the right scanner to access the right system. Most simple scanners will not read anything but engine and transmission codes and if you are lucky, a little data. What you need is a scanner that can access auxiliary modules like ABS, SRS, BCM, etc. Just about any auto parts store will have a scanner that can do the job. They will read it for you or let you borrow it for a few minutes to read it yourself. They do this in the hope of selling you a part or two so they like to do it.

I would suspect a wheel speed sensor or, depending on your options, perhaps a transmission speed sensor is the problem but that is about a 60% chance. The other 40% is spread among dozens of other parts. Of course I have no guess which wheel speed sensor it would be if it is one at all.

A wheel bearing doesn't have to be detectably worn to cause a speed sensor to have a problem. The sensor is magnetic and counts the bearing balls as they go by. If there is some wear that puts metal shavings on the sensor it will not be able to sense the balls and will give false readings to the various modules. The modules will then set a code.
 

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Code:
I was born at night, but not last night sir. CTS or autocal would only pull the recurring glow plug codes and an ECM/TCM error. Now that doesn't tell me too much does it?

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They will tell you which glow plug is bad, that’s pretty much what any scanner will tell you, as far as replacing the ones that’s bad, that’s up to you to do the repair.
 
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