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Not today, but Sunday I did a 48,000 mile service which included: Engine oil and filter, transmission oil and filter, transfer case, fuel filter, and rear differential. Still have to do the front differential, and grease it but ran out of steam with a cold.
 

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Drove the 01 up the road to check and see if the power company ever installed that gate that they were supposed to have months ago. No gate, gotta make some phone calls again going to have to switch from the mister nice guy approach!
 

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Only needed a small amount of paint for the flaps, and I got into how it flowed......so I thought I'd burn thru the rest of the qt before cleaning up the gun. :grin2:

But I ran out before I could finish. :|

Now I'll have to buy another qt to finish off the resonator....then I'll be back to the remaining qt again. :crying:

Thought I was mostly done with replacing all of the crumbling flex wrap under the hood....then found a whole new nest of crumbles when I removed the cover/case around the underhood fuse block.

Burned thru my supply of flex on what I could there.....need to order more now.
Marked my territory with some hand blood of course. USA;

Oh, the tribulations you can find under the hood. :wink2:
 

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Wheels were “delivered to garage” at 10am. They came by Fedex so this evening I’ll probably have to drive around and see which of the neighbors garage they were in fact left at. Fedex guy is scared shitless of dogs...he’s in a bad line of work :teehee

EDIT:
Wifey got home and called me. There’s a lovely box of shiny new chrome lug nuts....no wheels. I called RealTruck and got some girl that sounded like she was absolutely stoned out of her mind. I told her I had ordered some wheels last Thursday and would like to get some info on when they might ship.

This is how the conversation went:
“Uuuuhhhhhhhhhh..........(10-15 seconds of silence). I asked if she was still there. “Uhhhhhhhhh.....yeah.....uh.....yeah I’m here....ummmmmmm.........you ordered.....was it wheels?”. I said yes a set of wheels and lug nuts, the lug nuts came today but no wheels, where are my wheels? Another minute or two of Uhh and Umm then she puked up something about some items come from the manufacturer and sometimes it takes a while. I asked if she had any idea of a ship time. More Uhhhhhhhhh. I told her their website implied that almost everything ships within 24 hours, and if she couldn’t at least give me an estimate I wanted a refund. More Uhhhh. I politely asked if there was someone else there I could talk to. She ignores my question and says she’ll contact the shipping dept and have them look into it, and someone from shipping will contact me, then pretty much told me to have a nice day and hung up. Fuck. By the time I got home I’d cooled off and called back, now they’re closed. Absolutely the most piss poor customer service call I’ve ever had. Only after the girl hung up on me I realized that she never asked me for my name, order #, nothing.
 

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Rotated tires around...

Having persistent issues with my new tires and wheels... Gear brand manifold wheels and GY Duratracs. I ran this same set up on my 2013 no issues.

Tires won't balance and road force is high... Highway vibration from mild to moderate...

Wheels on line purchase, Tires local shop... shop says wheels are bad.... I'v had them balance them twice and they change dramatically on weight... Then took to my usual tire shop (should have gone there in the first place) and he unmounted and remounted, got them better, but still not acceptable on the highway... He says its the tires...

I'm more inclined to believe its bad tires over a machined wheel....

Seems no coincidence that the Duratracs are Goodyears and that my dealer just went thru 3 sets of Goodyear SRAs on my OEM wheels due to bad tires... very hi road force and highway vibrations... 3rd set seem ok now...

Waiting for the tire dealer to call me back to try to warranty these things, but I'm sure he'll blame the wheels...
 

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so, i was cruising around the internet and found a thread about hijacking the xm right and left signal wires and using them for an aux input so i decided to give it a go. took about 15 minutes and man! i couldnt be happier to finally be able to play music from my phone. i got a bluetooth receiver that plugs into an aux port from amazon and it all works beautifully! its the small victories in life haha! cheers
 

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Could a radial tire be significantly out-of-round?
Yes, tires are not round....you can watch 'em hop on the balancer.
And makin' yer way around the round, it's different thicknesses too.
Can't be balanced....it's more common than you think.
 

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so, i was cruising around the internet and found a thread about hijacking the xm right and left signal wires and using them for an aux input so i decided to give it a go. took about 15 minutes and man! i couldnt be happier to finally be able to play music from my phone. i got a bluetooth receiver that plugs into an aux port from amazon and it all works beautifully! its the small victories in life haha! cheers


Hah! I bought a 1/8” headphone jack to do this a couple years ago (before Radio Shack went under) and it’s still hanging on a peg above my workbench :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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. . . . . .
Your situation puzzles me. Radial truck tires, no matter what their origin, are generally pretty "round".

Not like the old days with "bias" tires, where any "out-of-round" under 5/32 was considered acceptable. Most every tire shop in those days had a "tire knife" - essentially a lathe on which you mounted your tire/wheel, and it was "turned" or the tread was cut down until it was round.

Could a radial tire be significantly out-of-round? My understanding is, if that happened, any kind of "quality control" at the factory would eliminate that.

What do you mean "cant be balanced". Any tire can be balanced, if you are willing to add enough weight. With modern tires, I would be surprised if it would take more than 4 ozs to balance. Anything over that and I would look for some kind of manufacturing defect.

I am having trouble getting my head around your description - something off here - once mounted on a modern computerized wheel balancer, and "spun up" it should be pretty obvious whether your wheel is below standard, (meaning bent, out-of-round, etc) or if it is the tire.

Assuming your tire man is both honest and competent, he should be able to show you what the problem is, by simply having you look at the tire/wheel combo. when he mounts it on and spins up his wheel balancer.
So, on the OEM wheels, I'm not an installer, but there is a limit to how much weight you can get on a rim, sticky or hammer on... and you are correct, 4oz, or less, In offroad tires like my 37s on the jeep, they require so much weight one needs to use internal beads.... 12-20 oz.

The new machines use road force... "A road force tire balancer, a state-of-the-art balancing machine, uses a load-roller to simulate the force of the road, and thereby ascertain the combined uniformity of a tire and wheel package. Road force balancers measure the force variation and runout of the whole tire and wheel assembly."

The tires had high roadforce, like 60... under 20 is ideal... took 3 sets of goodyears to get a balanced tire with low roadforce and thus no vibrations. The vibrations was significant. Ever loose a wheel weight ? for a quick trip no issue, but hours of driving, no way.

The duratracs have around 6 -8 ozs and spin true but when loaded vibrate.. RF around 30-40 right now...

So yes a manufacturing defect that cant be seen by the eye... But since it took 3 sets of SRAs to make my new truck drive like a new truck off the lot, and the duratracs are also GY, I'm guessing some where there is a gap in the quality control...

My guy has shown me the numbers, but I didn't buy the tires from him this time. Took a short cut to a closer dealer, and they are the ones who don't believe the tires are the issues..
 

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Rotated tires around...



Having persistent issues with my new tires and wheels... Gear brand manifold wheels and GY Duratracs. I ran this same set up on my 2013 no issues.



Tires won't balance and road force is high... Highway vibration from mild to moderate...



Wheels on line purchase, Tires local shop... shop says wheels are bad.... I'v had them balance them twice and they change dramatically on weight... Then took to my usual tire shop (should have gone there in the first place) and he unmounted and remounted, got them better, but still not acceptable on the highway... He says its the tires...



I'm more inclined to believe its bad tires over a machined wheel....



Seems no coincidence that the Duratracs are Goodyears and that my dealer just went thru 3 sets of Goodyear SRAs on my OEM wheels due to bad tires... very hi road force and highway vibrations... 3rd set seem ok now...



Waiting for the tire dealer to call me back to try to warranty these things, but I'm sure he'll blame the wheels...


That’s the very reason I don’t buy Goodyears. All that I’ve ever had were bad in one way or another. They came new on two different trucks I’ve bought and less than 15,000 miles on them, the belts started separating. Goodyear of course wouldn’t stand behind them. Won’t ever run Goodyears on anything again.


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I am in no position to diagnose his issues.
It's always a wonderful warm and fuzzy feeling, when someone who doesn't know squat, claims those that DO know, are wrong. :rolleyes:
 

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I developed vibration issues with the dually. I suspect it was an out of round condition caused by the rears side by side dragging in turns. I mean the rubber has to give somewhere.
 

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It's always a wonderful warm and fuzzy feeling, when someone who doesn't know squat, claims those that DO know, are wrong. :rolleyes:
I worked in a mechanic shop for 4 years that did tyres every day and you sir are definitely right.
Even the slightest up and down on the balancer with an all terrain will cause a whoop whoop that sounds kinda like a wheel bearing gone
 

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REGARDING VIBRATION RELATED TO WHEELS & TIRES

The problem is obvious - so many people who buy trucks know exactly what they want, but have little or no understanding of even the most basic laws of physics.

For example, they have a desperate need to "look cool" by removing the tires and wheels the vehicle's suspension was designed for, and substituting all manner of "more aggressive" (yes, I did not make this up) have seen the term "aggressive" used in tire advertising) tires and wheels.

The problem is simple to those who stayed awake in their high school physics classes (or is part of the problem the failure of American education in the last few generations - have some of these folks even had a physics class in high school...?).

The bigger & heavier a rotating mass is, the more an "out-of-round" and/or "out-of-balance" force will be incurred.

For those who do not know, "off-road" tires are typically much bigger & heavier than those a typical Duramax came with. As such, they will add a number of forces to the vehicle's suspension.

It is not reasonable to expect a much larger tire & wheel combination is going to produce the same degree of smooth-ness as the tire & wheel combination the truck was designed with.

Much of my own driving would qualify as "off-road" to the typical "city-dweller"; I live in a sparsely-settled area. The last two miles to my ranch are not maintained by any govt. entity. It can get pretty ugly (for that reason, most if not all of my neighbors have "four-wheel" drive vehicles, as I do.) On occasion some of us will get stuck - including those who have so called "off-road" tires. A bit of neighborliness and a tow cable & the problem is solved.

My own situation is typical - while some of my driving is on pretty rough surfaces, on a mileage basis most of my driving is on paved roads, often on Interstates where I risk getting rear-ended if I don't go at least 60 mph in the right lane! So I use the same size and similar tread pattern to what my truck came with when new.

Bottom line - if you have a legit. need for so called "off-road" tires, go for it. But do not expect your tire shop can get them to run as smooth as a "stock" tire. And be suspicious of after-market wheels - they may or many not have been manufactured to a SAE/ASTM standard.

My belief is that a responsible, ethical tire shop would be only too happy to have you watch your wheels being "spun up" on their balancing equipment, demonstrating to you what is involved in determining whether the tire/wheel combo. meets minimum standards.

Those of you in here who have actually worked in tire shops AND have at least a basic understanding of the physics of wheel inspection and balancing (and know how to CORRECTLY operate a professional-grade wheel balancer know exactly what I am driving at.

For the rest of you - please adjust your expectations as to what is physically possible.

Having run this exact tire a wheel combination on my 2013 Last year before selling it, with NO vibes, its not the combination, nor is it the large off road tires as the same tires Duratracs are being mounted and delivered on the 2019 GMC AT4s, which I owned briefly before this truck, and again no vibes.

I have a or some bad tires, this time around.

So don't blame it on the fact that people want to customize thier vehicle...

Oh yeah, the 37's mud terrains on my jeep also spun up better than these...
 

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Y'all might wanna start a tire balancing thread....

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So the wheels I ordered are on national backorder. Def parts....aftermarket wheels....these trucks just love a good nationwide backorder :teehee
 

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To me the only real issue with aftermarket wheels is load capacity. All too often the wheel isn't rated to carry as much load as the tire and that could lead to problems down the road. Not that filling the bed with gravel for the driveway is going to leave you sitting on the brake disks in half a mile. I've overloaded wheels many times but when I had this much load I always drove like a granny to minimize the cornering forces on the wheels.

Other than that, as long as the bolt pattern is correct, the offset is ball park, the machining is right and they are the correct size I don't see any reason why a wheel would make a difference in balancing.

If I was getting new wheels put on I would ask the tire shop to put the wheel alone on the balancer to see if it ran true and where the heavy spot was. This is often marked on a new wheel but I'd like it to be verified. Mistakes do happen no matter how good the quality control is.

As far as modern radials being some how fault proof, I just don't see it. I've seen lots of radials with various problems including slipped belts, out of round, bulging side walls etc. I just replaced the tires on my RV because the tread was no longer flat across. Somehow the belts had worked loose and the tire had returned to the round cross section of a non-belted tire. There are lots of defective tires being sold all of the time. Sometimes it's bad design, sometimes it's poor workmanship, sometimes it's improper handling and lots of times it is unknowable why the tire is bad, it just is.

If there were no bad tires being made then there would be no use for road force balancing.
 

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A lot of tire fitters also don't understand what the coloured paint location marks on the tyres are actually for either
 
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