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Can the fobs be programmed without a scan tool?
I have 2 brand new spare ones that are unprogrammed, I had to buy another key the other day because the key is worn out and it came with another fob.
 

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yes and yes

First the fob

https://www.gmpartsonline.net/blog/programming-the-chevy-silverado-key-fob-remote-a-step-by-step-guide

Then the key

How to program Chevy key or GM key without original.
Insert original key and turn on.
Wait 5 seconds or until flashing security light goes off.
Within 10 seconds insert new key and turn on.
Wait 5 seconds or until flashing security light goes off.
Key is now programmed.
I don't have a security light?
The aftermarket key I got cut worked with no programming, is that because it's pov pack work truck?

And that link says 2011-14 contact dealer for remote programming?
 

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I don't have a security light?
The aftermarket key I got cut worked with no programming, is that because it's pov pack work truck?

And that link says 2011-14 contact dealer for remote programming?
Did you ever have a FOB to begin with or do you have to insert the key into the door handle lock to get into the truck. We have two 2012 WTs at the company I work for, that have no security system save for actually locking both doors manually. The windows are manual crank as well.

Here is a form I found at Rock Auto, apparently you are correct,

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/327/Instruction_Sheet_Key_Fobs_030.pdf

So, if you have no other fob, sell that one because it won't do you any good, or better yet, send it to me for being so helpful >:)

If you do have a security system then over hear the dealer or most Locksmiths can program them (the Locksmith is cheaper)
 

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This is by no means intended to make fun of jwcgmc1985.
Oh no I didn’t perceive it as that! I am off this whole week as well as the rest of the year so I’ve been moving trucks and a trailer around the driveway tinkering with different things, and I had the gray half ton parked in sort of an inconvenient spot. So when I went to hitting buttons, nothing happened :surprise:


It was one of those “what do I need to do right now to make this happen” moments..
 

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Did you ever have a FOB to begin with or do you have to insert the key into the door handle lock to get into the truck. We have two 2012 WTs at the company I work for, that have no security system save for actually locking both doors manually. The windows are manual crank as well.

Here is a form I found at Rock Auto, apparently you are correct,

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/327/Instruction_Sheet_Key_Fobs_030.pdf

So, if you have no other fob, sell that one because it won't do you any good, or better yet, send it to me for being so helpful >:)

If you do have a security system then over hear the dealer or most Locksmiths can program them (the Locksmith is cheaper)
Thanks for being helpful:wink2:
Yeah I have 1 fob that works
I was asking because last time locksmith said no, there is no dealer here except Holden and they said maybe they can but of they can't they will still charge me. Would have been nice if they would have just copied over. I'll see once I put the dic switch in whether I have the program option like it says on a few of the YouTube videos.
Thanks again
 

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2012 Silverado Duramax:
Did a remote start, and not sure if it died on it’s own or I accidentally hit the button, but it died. Got inside and turned it on with the key and the CEL came on, appears to be in need of a glow plug, good thing I have all this time off 'uhNo

39D4BA88-EEAC-4133-AC09-B289585D2FCB.jpg
 

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New injectors a couple months ago.

Getting some new codes and some old ones on my CTS2

The warning lights on the dash come and go, mostly if I restart the truck. They are so random. I believe it is in the large bale connection on the drivers valve cover. This was the 4th set of inj, the head gaskets were replaced 2 years ago, valves were adjusted in the summer, plus the truck had an Edge programmer that added in between the connectors. The Edge has been long gone. It's for sale if you need cheap power.
It would seem that the pin connectors are stretched out a bit and not making a good connection all the time or there is a pile of grounds screwing up. That connection has been done so many times so who knows if it is screwed up or not. Texas and Alabama truck so almost no rust. I have done the "big three" ground kit.

Codes
P0101 MAF signal out of range
P0181 Fuel temp Sensor A circuit out of range
P0234 Turbo overboost. Boost pres 4 lbs above max spec for 5 sec. I have a boost fooler.
P0238 Turbo overboost Boost sensor circuit shorts or fully opens
P0500 Speed sensor drunk
P0700 Transmission control system malfunction signal

Red light on 4wd switch will come on or either just show that I am in 4wd low running 70.
ABS light comes and goes.

Any ideas since I still can't afford another truck.

Thanks guys and Merry Christmas!
 

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When I get a vehicle that has had as many things done to fix it as yours has I generally go back to the beginning and start over. Often it turns out to be something that was checked but was intermittent so it tested good but was actually bad. It's awful hard to find a problem when it isn't there.

I don't know what you mean about the big three grounds but let me just tell about a grounding problem I recently had. I have a truck that came with really slow ratio manual steering which I converted to fast ratio power steering. It was a completely different setup so when I mounted the steering gear I had to make braces for it to the frame. One of those braces ran directly under the oil pan. That was about 20 years ago.

Recently it has had a hard time starting. I thought it was the battery but that always tested good. There had been a problem with the fan hitting the shroud so I jacked up the engine and put a spacer under the front mount which fixed the fan problem. What I hadn't noticed is that the engine had been setting on the brace for the steering gear. When I lifted the engine it lost ground through the brace. Since there wasn't much else grounding the starter it wouldn't crank well. I put in a new ground strap and it now cranks faster than it ever had before.

My first step in diagnosing your truck would be to ensure that the engine and body are grounded well to the batteries and each other because bad grounds cause all kinds of weird problems.
 

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Can the fobs be programmed without a scan tool?
I have 2 brand new spare ones that are unprogrammed, I had to buy another key the other day because the key is worn out and it came with another fob.
There are many different kinds of key fobs/remotes and different ways to program them. Actually, it isn't typically the fob that gets programmed. It is the vehicle that is programmed to accept the fob as valid.

Our trucks, at least all of the ones I have worked on, use a pretty universal GM fob that transmits a set of codes via radio waves. Anything that can send the same codes on the same radio frequency can be used as a remote for your truck. Every time a code is sent to the truck it includes a signature set of signals that tell the truck who is sending it and what they want done. Some vehicles will get the signal to unlock the doors and will also at the same time adjust the seat, mirrors and steering wheel to the preferences of the individual.

The standard way GM does this is that the fob sends the same kind of signal for each function but the encoding sequence is different for each vehicle/fob combination. When a fob is programmed to a vehicle, the vehicle stores the codes that the fob puts out as valid. There after the vehicle will respond to the signals the fob puts out. If the codes are not stored in the vehicle (typically the BCM) then it ignores them. Most GM vehicles will store up to six fobs. If you try to add a seventh it erases the oldest code stored and puts the new one in its place.

Since the fob is typically fixed but the vehicle is programmable, it would be possible to program many vehicles to accept the same fob. I used to be a railroader. I would work a train to a distant terminal, stay long enough to get rested and then I'd work another train home. Many of my coworkers had vehicles at home and others at their destination terminal. It would be possible to have only one fob (smaller wad of keys in your pocket) and have it work with both the home and away vehicle. I guess you could have a single fob work with multiple vehicles at home too but I don't know if anyone wants to unlock or lock multiple vehicles at once. However, it would make sense to have an emergency fob at home that could unlock any GM vehicle you owned for those times when you get locked out.

There are two normal ways to add fobs to those stored in a vehicle. The first uses a set of steps to put the vehicle into learning mode and for the next few seconds it will accept any code it gets as valid. The process takes about half an hour because there are multiple waiting periods built in. It can be shortened with the use of a scanner. Either way, this can be done by anyone who has a good working fob that the vehicle already recognizes. You have to have on hand all of the fobs you want to work because once you enter the first valid fob all others will be erased. Other fobs will need to be added back in right after the first or they won't work.

The dealer can also program the vehicle to accept new fobs. He has to use the right scanner and codes they get from GM. So if you lose all of your fobs you are not out of luck but will need to pay the dealer to get you back up and running. You may find an independent garage that can do this but it isn't a common capability.

Another way to get a fob to work is to have a one time programmable fob. A locksmith with the right equipment can read the codes from a good fob and transfer them to a new fob. The new fob acts exactly like the original fob so the vehicle doesn't know the difference. Using this method, an unlimited number of fobs can be made that will work in a particular vehicle. Programmable fobs are more expensive than generic versions and of course the locksmith is due something for his time and equipment so it is more expensive than a DIY solution but it works just fine and opens up some possibilities.
 

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Will suss it but not til the Gemini is running again just incase I can't start it and have to go get the scan tool
 

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Got a letter from GM that my Def temp sensor could have an “offset in temperature” and cause check engine light and service emissions lights to come on. If I think my vehicle has this condition I can take it in for a repair under extended warranty coverage.


Yeahhhh.......I think I’m good HmmMMmm


Got my Christmas bonus from work today so I decided to blow some of it and try aftermarket wheels round deux. Ordered from CustomOffsets this time. IF this don’t work out I give up and stock wheels will stay on the damn thing :teehee
 

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Locked my keys in my truck when I got home from work which happened to be the same day my wife had an extra meeting at work so I had the pleasure of sitting on the tail gate for 45 minutes until she got home. At least I got to watch the sunset. Luckily I had a spare key inside the house (and the spare to my old LB7 too lol).

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I took an extra key and cut all the crap off the head of it and keep it in my wallet. Never a problem unless I lock the truck with the wallet in it also :surprise:
 

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Got my Christmas bonus from work today so I decided to blow some of it and try aftermarket wheels round deux. Ordered from CustomOffsets this time. IF this don’t work out I give up and stock wheels will stay on the damn thing :teehee
Bro

I’ve been eying those deals between them and rimzoneonline since I need new tires ($2200) and they’re posting up deals for not much more for wheels AND tires. Only issue I see is the super off brand tires they offer and with having never run anything but Nittos on the truck (terra grapplers, mid grapplers, current Trail grapplers) so I’m a littler Leary..

I’d even go up to a 24” Maverick with a 305/35 but the load rating only being like 9800 combined has me cautious, though millions of people do it... and I say that for the times I pull a trailer (20’ with my Sierra) but it’s probably fine..

I’d definitely get some 12 wides, just unsure about the rubbers, even considering the street tire since it’s always on pavement.

2E8F50F5-9E11-4322-B85C-DDDDDB23DEBA.jpg
 

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Mizterwizard,
Thank you for your reply sir,

The big three ground was developed by guys who installed big honking sound systems in their trucks and wanted to be certain of a good ground.

The suggestions that I did was a #2 cable from left battery neg to the frame, a #2 cable from the engine block to the frame and a #2 from the alternator output to the pos post on the right battery. I have 2 newer Interstate batteries.

I guess my question would be that the bale connector has been off and on so many times, do you think that the pins and receivers have deformed enough to allow this inconsistent setting of codes? Do I need to disconnect and pull each receiver and squeeze them closed a little so they will be tight on the pins when connected?

What other method would you suggest?

Thank you sir!

Virtually no rust, so I am not real sure if it is a ground issue.
 

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2012 Silverado Duramax:
Truck was washed and the interior had a clutter removal performed.

Ordered new wheels and tires, 24x12 with 305/35r24 Terras, when it happens the old setup will be up for sale.

A997261A-01DC-4761-BA61-B4D63F43F447.jpg
 

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Bro

I’ve been eying those deals between them and rimzoneonline since I need new tires ($2200) and they’re posting up deals for not much more for wheels AND tires.
View attachment 1049259
Yeah I seriously considered ordering wheels and tires and going up to 20”s. Might do that in the future but for now I just ordered some cheap 17” Motos. If I was younger I’d have my truck more decked out but I just don’t care anymore about having a flashy ride. If I had the nicer stock wheels they’d stay but I don’t care much for these. My tires only have 8k and still look new (Mastercraft AXT) and I’m an epic tightwad so I just couldn’t bring myself to replace perfectly good tires :teehee
 

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I took an extra key and cut all the crap off the head of it and keep it in my wallet. Never a problem unless I lock the truck with the wallet in it also :surprise:
Look into Viper Smart Start, I can start my engine, lock, un-lock, GPS the location of my truck from anywhere on earth and possibly above earth with my cell phone and/or my Apple Watch. As long as I have cell service.
 

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Look into Viper Smart Start, I can start my engine, lock, un-lock, GPS the location of my truck from anywhere on earth and possibly above earth with my cell phone and/or my Apple Watch. As long as I have cell service.
Yea I'm old school I still use a key:wink2: Plus I just graduated from a flip phone a year ago. :surprise:
 

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Finally got the H2 wheels installed with new General Grabber ATX 265's. Went from stock alloy 16's with 265's, didn't need to change my speedo reading. It's raining today so not going to get a nice shiny and clean truck pic yet. I went old school with the white letters (I'm 50). Center caps fit just fine.


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