I would say that there is a fair possibility that you have a bad connection at that connector but it's just a guess from here. There is actually a tool you can get to test the female side of the connector, which is where the problem would likely be. You can buy a set of screw driver like tools that have tips the size of various connectors. You plug them into the terminal and then see how much force it takes to pull it back out. If the amount of force is too low then the connector needs to be replaced or reformed. The only place I have seen this tool is in a Kent-Moore catalog. I've never known anyone to have it.Mizterwizard,
Thank you for your reply sir,
The big three ground was developed by guys who installed big honking sound systems in their trucks and wanted to be certain of a good ground.
The suggestions that I did was a #2 cable from left battery neg to the frame, a #2 cable from the engine block to the frame and a #2 from the alternator output to the pos post on the right battery. I have 2 newer Interstate batteries.
I guess my question would be that the bale connector has been off and on so many times, do you think that the pins and receivers have deformed enough to allow this inconsistent setting of codes? Do I need to disconnect and pull each receiver and squeeze them closed a little so they will be tight on the pins when connected?
What other method would you suggest?
Thank you sir!
Virtually no rust, so I am not real sure if it is a ground issue.
This isn't the tool but it has most of the appropriate terminals that you could use like the tool. Just $352 for a set of multimeter terminals. Now you know why nobody has them.
You could also buy a set of male terminals from GM so that you would be sure that they are the right size and then attach them to a piece of wire so that you could use them as fit testers. Or you could go to your local junk yard and cut some connectors off various location to extract the terminals for use. They might not charge you much for that.
I don't have that tool though I do have some terminals that I sometimes use. Mostly what I do is use a caliper to measure the diameter of the pins on the male side of the connector. I use that measurement to select a bit from the number drill bit set I have. I use the shank of the bit to insert into the female terminals for testing.
Typically the butt end of the shank is square and sharp so I polish it off a little so that it won't scrape the inside of the female terminal and enlarge it. I try several different terminals to get a feel for how tight they are. If any are significantly looser than the others they get some attention. I've never seen a connector that you can't remove the terminals from for reforming or replacement. It isn't always easy to tell just how a terminal comes out though.
With larger connectors there is usually a key that pulls out from the open end of the connector. Then you can reach inside with a small tool to release a little hook. On the other side is typically a clip that holds in individual seals or a block seal. With the clip removed, the seal(s) come right out with a little prying. Just slide it up the cluster of wires to get some working room. Then lightly pull on the selected wire while releasing the hook on the other side. When you put it back together it is important to put the key back in properly because without it the wires can pull out the back side too easily.
And so help me if anyone on here comes back with cracks about female connectors, test fits and probes I'm going to ground them!