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Mizterwizard,
Thank you for your reply sir,

The big three ground was developed by guys who installed big honking sound systems in their trucks and wanted to be certain of a good ground.

The suggestions that I did was a #2 cable from left battery neg to the frame, a #2 cable from the engine block to the frame and a #2 from the alternator output to the pos post on the right battery. I have 2 newer Interstate batteries.

I guess my question would be that the bale connector has been off and on so many times, do you think that the pins and receivers have deformed enough to allow this inconsistent setting of codes? Do I need to disconnect and pull each receiver and squeeze them closed a little so they will be tight on the pins when connected?

What other method would you suggest?

Thank you sir!

Virtually no rust, so I am not real sure if it is a ground issue.
I would say that there is a fair possibility that you have a bad connection at that connector but it's just a guess from here. There is actually a tool you can get to test the female side of the connector, which is where the problem would likely be. You can buy a set of screw driver like tools that have tips the size of various connectors. You plug them into the terminal and then see how much force it takes to pull it back out. If the amount of force is too low then the connector needs to be replaced or reformed. The only place I have seen this tool is in a Kent-Moore catalog. I've never known anyone to have it.

This isn't the tool but it has most of the appropriate terminals that you could use like the tool. Just $352 for a set of multimeter terminals. Now you know why nobody has them.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3587-Terminal-Test-Kit/dp/B000O824TI

You could also buy a set of male terminals from GM so that you would be sure that they are the right size and then attach them to a piece of wire so that you could use them as fit testers. Or you could go to your local junk yard and cut some connectors off various location to extract the terminals for use. They might not charge you much for that.

I don't have that tool though I do have some terminals that I sometimes use. Mostly what I do is use a caliper to measure the diameter of the pins on the male side of the connector. I use that measurement to select a bit from the number drill bit set I have. I use the shank of the bit to insert into the female terminals for testing.

Typically the butt end of the shank is square and sharp so I polish it off a little so that it won't scrape the inside of the female terminal and enlarge it. I try several different terminals to get a feel for how tight they are. If any are significantly looser than the others they get some attention. I've never seen a connector that you can't remove the terminals from for reforming or replacement. It isn't always easy to tell just how a terminal comes out though.

With larger connectors there is usually a key that pulls out from the open end of the connector. Then you can reach inside with a small tool to release a little hook. On the other side is typically a clip that holds in individual seals or a block seal. With the clip removed, the seal(s) come right out with a little prying. Just slide it up the cluster of wires to get some working room. Then lightly pull on the selected wire while releasing the hook on the other side. When you put it back together it is important to put the key back in properly because without it the wires can pull out the back side too easily.

And so help me if anyone on here comes back with cracks about female connectors, test fits and probes I'm going to ground them!
 

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I would say that there is a fair possibility that you have a bad connection at that connector but it's just a guess from here. There is actually a tool you can get to test the female side of the connector, which is where the problem would likely be. You can buy a set of screw driver like tools that have tips the size of various connectors. You plug them into the terminal and then see how much force it takes to pull it back out. If the amount of force is too low then the connector needs to be replaced or reformed. The only place I have seen this tool is in a Kent-Moore catalog. I've never known anyone to have it.

This isn't the tool but it has most of the appropriate terminals that you could use like the tool. Just $352 for a set of multimeter terminals. Now you know why nobody has them.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3587-Terminal-Test-Kit/dp/B000O824TI

You could also buy a set of male terminals from GM so that you would be sure that they are the right size and then attach them to a piece of wire so that you could use them as fit testers. Or you could go to your local junk yard and cut some connectors off various location to extract the terminals for use. They might not charge you much for that.

I don't have that tool though I do have some terminals that I sometimes use. Mostly what I do is use a caliper to measure the diameter of the pins on the male side of the connector. I use that measurement to select a bit from the number drill bit set I have. I use the shank of the bit to insert into the female terminals for testing.

Typically the butt end of the shank is square and sharp so I polish it off a little so that it won't scrape the inside of the female terminal and enlarge it. I try several different terminals to get a feel for how tight they are. If any are significantly looser than the others they get some attention. I've never seen a connector that you can't remove the terminals from for reforming or replacement. It isn't always easy to tell just how a terminal comes out though.

With larger connectors there is usually a key that pulls out from the open end of the connector. Then you can reach inside with a small tool to release a little hook. On the other side is typically a clip that holds in individual seals or a block seal. With the clip removed, the seal(s) come right out with a little prying. Just slide it up the cluster of wires to get some working room. Then lightly pull on the selected wire while releasing the hook on the other side. When you put it back together it is important to put the key back in properly because without it the wires can pull out the back side too easily.

And so help me if anyone on here comes back with cracks about female connectors, test fits and probes I'm going to ground them!
Ii bought a set of these a while back.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57750-Wire-Terminal-Tool/dp/B007WQQHA2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Lisle+57750+Wire+Terminal+Tool+Kit&qid=1576935127&sr=8-3

Used them a couple of times. The work but it if you are not used to puling the female ones, it takes a bit of practice.
 

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Ii bought a set of these a while back.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57750-Wire-Terminal-Tool/dp/B007WQQHA2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Lisle+57750+Wire+Terminal+Tool+Kit&qid=1576935127&sr=8-3

Used them a couple of times. The work but it if you are not used to puling the female ones, it takes a bit of practice.
I have something like that but it is a SnapOn set and they are more like screw drivers. I also have made some custom tools out of pocket screw drivers. Mostly though all you need is some kind of very small pry bar. One of the SnapOn tools is a little wedge. I probably use that more than all of the others combined.

That is not exactly what he needs to test for loose connections though.
 

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2012 Silverado Duramax:
Changed out a GP on cylinder #1

Hope it did the trick 'dunno;
Changed one at a time #5 was the first one for me, 3 months later #6 went out, 2 months latter #3 went out I changed 1, 3, and 7.
Not long after that #4 went out so I changed 2, 4 and 8.
Ending removing the inner fender for one at a time.
I marked the ones that was still good and kept in case I’m in $$ pinch next time.
.
 

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Changed one at a time #5 was the first one for me, 3 months later #6 went out, 2 months latter #3 went out I changed 1, 3, and 7.
Not long after that #4 went out so I changed 2, 4 and 8.
Ending removing the inner fender for one at a time.
I marked the ones that was still good and kept in case I’m in $$ pinch next time.
.
When 2 of my glow plugs went south in a short amount of time I changed them all. No more codes. Those are the same I used, it's been about 2 years now.
If I start having more issues in that department I’ll definitely change the remainder and save the good ones

I would be telling a lie if I said I wasn’t nervous about swapping it out, only because I’ve never had to do it, but it was a breeze!
 

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Just use anti-seize on the glow plug threads and connector threads.
 

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I guess you thought I wasn't serious? Now go to your room and don't come out until I say so!
The post was so long I was work out by the last paragraph and I missed that bit :laugh:
 

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I have had to pull both. the make and remake boathouse some type of cap retainer typically. I think its a mfg preference but females tend to use a lock on the flat side of the connector whether it be from the terminal or the holder, the males its beed luck of the draw, but something similar and in my experience from the connector itself vs the terminal.

Once you figure out the connector, they tend to all be in there that way.

As for testing them, I may have been know to use a straight pin to probe the terminals from the back side. I now have a few blow darts (Mizterwizard can keep all of you gutter minded ones in punishment for the comments) that ay work better as they are longer (or maybe hat pins if you can find those things still).
 

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Just use anti-seize on the glow plug threads and connector threads.
Yes sir I sure did!


Doesn’t appear they applied any during assembly :frown2:
DD1F8F56-244C-45B3-B365-D9C309C764AA.jpg
 

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Gave the girl a Bath .. to get the New England salt off her
 

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