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That heavy Cummins on the trailer fatiguing your rear leafs? Gotta get a taller ballmount:popcorn
 

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Had to swap it out because of the shorter tires :)

That’s not illegal to roll with a trailer attached to another trailer is it?!
 

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Had to swap it out because of the shorter tires :)

That’s not illegal to roll with a trailer attached to another trailer is it?!
I think it depends on the state. Hell what are you worried about haven't you seen those ,"Tiawanna choochoos" Drive down the road?

 

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Put the FASS under hood filter delete on. Had to buy a filter wrench since it was sort of hard to get too with the one I had.
 

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I removed and replaced the inoperable backup camera. I can see again, Yipee....Life is good!!
 

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Had a rotate and balance last week.

Tech called me over to see all the slack in my steering system. That explains the floaty steering wheel action. I guess I'll start saving up for that.

The Moog and ACDelco Professional parts that I used on the 1500's seems okay. Is there another choice to get upgraded parts that are necessary on the 2500's? Is it just the tie rod ends that are the weak link? Is there a sticky somewhere that may show this since you know I did not search yet? Stock truck that is off road some and pulls a trailer a bunch.

Thank's guys!
 

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Check this floating steering out yourself.
If your moving the steering wheel back and forth and the tires are not moving then you more than likely have steering box issues.
If the tires are moving with you moving the steering wheel then you might just have loose movement.
You should have a adjustment on your steering box where you can snug it up a little so it’s not sloppy feeling.
I’m not sure on the newer trucks but the older ones you could tighten up the steering a little, 3/8” Allen wrench and 9/16
(I think) box end wrench

My 79 K20 was that way where a simple adjustment on the steering box tighten the steering up a little.
 

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Had sulastic shackles install with the 2 inch drop. Really worked out to about an inch at the rear wheel well. First ride feel really good. Rear end hop over bumps in a turn is about gone. I now feel bumps from the front more than the rear. It took them about 2.5 hours to install.
Went to the dealer for my first (free) oil change. Done at 2500 miles.Had them install a magnetic drain plug.
 

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Had a rotate and balance last week.



Tech called me over to see all the slack in my steering system. That explains the floaty steering wheel action. I guess I'll start saving up for that.



The Moog and ACDelco Professional parts that I used on the 1500's seems okay. Is there another choice to get upgraded parts that are necessary on the 2500's? Is it just the tie rod ends that are the weak link? Is there a sticky somewhere that may show this since you know I did not search yet? Stock truck that is off road some and pulls a trailer a bunch.



Thank's guys!
If you end up looking at steering boxes it seems the best would be Red Head. Other parts that Moog and Delco make are usually fine, wouldn't go with anything else myself (cheap generic brands).

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 

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I replaced the Hydroboost yesterday after work. It was all good. Removing the clip was fine. I just have a small lift kit so climbing up under the dash and trying to get to the top two bolts on the plate was a pain.
I just disconnected the master and pulled it out of the way. Took me under two hours, slow im sure but being it was a critical piece i didnt want to forget anything.
 

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Uncovered the snow and went to get breakfast, and the bank.
 

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Sorry for double post.
 

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Thanks guys!

Sorry that I did not completely explain.
The centerlink and all attached were very worn and loose. That is the source of most of the wobble I'm sure. It will need to be changed to newer, less wobbley parts and pieces.

I hope the box is okay for a bit longer.

So, do I need to worry about upgrading tie rod ends when I change this stuff or is new factory style good enough?
Thanks again.
 

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I would use MOOG and just use the sleeves that go over the rods. Unless you want to spend the extra money for Kryptonite or something similar. You know how opinions are.
 

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I finally drove mine to work. Turns out it had been over 3 weeks since it was even ran last.

Thanks guys!

Sorry that I did not completely explain.
The centerlink and all attached were very worn and loose. That is the source of most of the wobble I'm sure. It will need to be changed to newer, less wobbley parts and pieces.

I hope the box is okay for a bit longer.

So, do I need to worry about upgrading tie rod ends when I change this stuff or is new factory style good enough?
Thanks again.
I put MOOG Problem Solver stuff in the front end about 100K ago. Still seems tight and good to roll.
 
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