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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, i am looking to order a Zone 6" Kit for my truck from Alligator Performance (Unless someone can get me a better price), and i'm wondering what all else i should order to go along with it?
Will the truck sit level with decent CV angle's with he 5" Block's and Cognito Key's? What about with am Add-A-Leaf in the back to?
Was also gonna get the Nitro shock upgrade. How do these shocks ride?

Also, has anyone installed one of these with the truck on jack stands?
I am looking to install mine in my garage in a weekend hopefully, but will i need any special tools or anything?


I'm also going to need some 315/75/16 tires, but want something that's gonna do alright and last me the winter, but also look good on a lifted truck (Like a mud tire). What's everyone suggest?

Will i run into any rubbing issue's with 315's on this lift if cranked to be level? My tires currently do not rub with my set up.
Has anyone seen one of these kit's side by side with a truck with the BDS 7" Kit? I have a buddy that had the BDS kit and it was an alright size (He had step bar's though), but his 35's rubbed on his front mud flaps (Thick Rubber one's).

Anyone wth this kit on 35's able to get me some measurement's to make sure this thing's not gonna be to big to exit my garage.

Thank's
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump Anyone? I should note that i aready have Cognito UCA's, Cognito Pitman/Idler Braces, Cognito Key's.
Also, has anyone tried to clear a 36x15.50/20 tire on this lift? I want something wider than a 12.50 for the summer, but keep 315's on my 16's for winter.
I was told you should also always have traction bar's with a lift to. Is this true? I kinda want the BDS Traction bar's or the Cognito Custom 60" Bar's. Anyone have those?
 

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what height is your garage door? after my install there is no way mine was going to fit inside the garage i installed mine around. here's a pic for reference, on 315/75/16s



I installed mine on jack stands in my driveway over the course of a weekend and didn't have any issues. An impact will help considerably, as will an air chisel/torch/mini sledge in case your torsion bars are stuck in your keys.

Other than that you will need a sawzall to cut the ear off your front differential, and a decent set of sockets/wrenches obviously.

I run nitro shocks on my rig, and they perform decently. Obviously not a high dollar shock, but they work out very well.

Traction bars are not necessary, however nice to have as you'll start hopping on launches lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When you installed your lift on jack stand's, where did you put the four stands so you could do the front/rear suspension? I have a good selection of tools in my garage, and could borrow something from buddy's if needed to.

Sure looks like alot of sidewall on a 35 on 16 there. But for winter that wont matter to me, Summer will get something with a bit less sidewall.
 

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I did the rear suspension first with the front end off the ground. This is the part where you will hate life when it comes to jack stands haha. I used a pair of center blocks and a 2x6 under each jack stand so they would reach the frame rail and give me enough room to drop my axle to install the blocks. In the front when I did it I just put the jack stands underneath the frame rails on each side, let me see if i can dig up some pics for you..
 

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heres a pic of during the install, i kept a jack with some boards under the front end as a just in case type thing. The second is another to give you an idea about garage doors, and to give you an example of the additional track width in the front. (with a fabtech lift at least) Hope it helps a bit..


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Damn, you did it in the rain? Yea there's no way your truck would fit in your garage again. I have 7' Door's i believe, so that definitly helps. Buddy had his 06 LBZ with 7" BDS Lift/35's in my garage before, but i think his lift was turned down a bit, cuz his CV's were dead straight and it had a little rake to it.

Did you just do te same for the back? Stand's under the frame, unhook everything, than lower the diff down with the jack? Do brake line's need to be disconnected anywhere?
 

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Haha well i started it on a friday night, then it started to rain on saturday, so I stopped for a while, but then got aggravated and just said F it and went to work. It's dry under the truck when you're on a creeper :drink

You might be alright then if he fit his 7" in there.. Another thought if you want is to throw a set of low profile 16" tires on your current wheels or whatever that you can throw on it to get it in/out of your garage if you do have any issues.

Yes the rear was the same. You remove the two Ebrake hangars from the frame and then the one mount for it on the axle. You don't disconnect any lines. Take the shocks out, then loosen both of your ubolts with a jack underneath the diff supporting it. Get one side loose but not off, then take the other side off and install your blocks. Then repeat the process for the other side. The reason you leave one side in is so the axle doesn't rotate and fall off of your jack. Makes things so much easier.. ask me how i know haha.. Not this time, but my first lift install went that way. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank's for the help. I should be able to install the lift in a day or two if i work hard than. Did you have the torsion bar unloader tool? Do i need anything else special?
 

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Yes most definitely. I started on friday night, all throughout the day on saturday (in and out due to rain, eating, etc.. ) and then finished up on sunday by noon. Not a very bad install at all other than fighting my torsion keys. That was the only absolutely horrible part. I didn't have the torsion bar removal tool, I rented a ball joint removal tool from my local auto zone though and it worked the same. Just DO NOT try to use a regular c clamp, because it WILL break from the tension.
 
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