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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just picked up 2007 d/a and no power to my camper. i think there is a couple dummy fuses in the fuse box under the hood. do i add a fuse to stack 2 or 1 and what size fuse. no power to my camper as in the lights in the camper. no charge to the battery. thanks
 

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as in no trailer lights?? If your truck has the towing package which most do their should be trailer light fuses under the hood.
 

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do a search,you have to energize the rear plug as this HIGH amperage option is better left unhooked rather than hot:eek:[doesn't fit every guy that has one,imagine the mayhem if they came hot]:rolleyes:
 

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The fuse should be a 40 amp. Some vehicles also did not have the feed wire connected to the #1 terminal at the underhood fuse box. You should find it taped to the wire harness under the mastercylinder. :D
 

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Assuming that you have a 2007 1/2 - there are two seperate circuits. One for the trailer plug and one for the in-bed connection (for a camper or a gooseneck). Sometimes they are shipped without the connections to the power stud, sometimes without the fuses, and sometimes (like mine) both were not connected. There is more going on there than just 12 volts. The ECM senses that you have a trailer and/or camper connected and boosts the alternator voltage to charge your Aux batteries. The dealer should be able to take care of this for you under warranty and check the whole circuit out for you at no charge.
 

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Hello All,
You mean I'm not the only one in the world trying to figure this out? Great minds must think alike. I too recently purchased a 2007.5 2500 and spent a little time on Sunday trying to figure out why there wasn't power in the plug. Even before finding this site, I managed to trace it up and I found a red/black wire taped up to the flexloom between the fuse box and fender. It had a sticker that I think said something about trailer power so I was pretty sure I found what I was looking for.

But, my problem is I didn't know what to do from there. Standing at the driverside fender and looking at the fusebox, there are two studs/bolts to the left. Only one of them has a wire connected - the one furthest from the fender. Is one of these the studs you are referring to?

I need to go back and look for the fuse you talked about. I didn't find that. I was kind of hoping there would be a way to wire it so it was a switched load only sending power to the trailer if the truck switch was on, but it sounds like this is an always on type of connection.

If anyone can shed light on the two posts/studs/bolts I mention and any ideas on hooking it up switched, I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Me again. I just went and looked at the fuse block again. It all makes sense now. "Stud 1" and "Stud 2" are actually fused with fuse 61 and 62 (or something like). I checked the stud 2 voltage and it had 12v sitting on it with the truck off and did have the 40amp fuse. All I would have to do is connect the wire. Silly stud didn't have a nut though.

To make it switched instead of always on, I guess I could pick up a relay and put between the actual stud/bolt and the trailer power wire, then just wire the energizing section of the relay across ground and something switched. Just not sure what that would be at the moment. Now with these little bitty fuses, it's much harder to jumper off of one.

At least I now know how to get it working. Isn't the Internet great! :)
 

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just gotta

it's not the size that counts it's how ya use it!:rof
 

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Me again. I just went and looked at the fuse block again. It all makes sense now. "Stud 1" and "Stud 2" are actually fused with fuse 61 and 62 (or something like). I checked the stud 2 voltage and it had 12v sitting on it with the truck off and did have the 40amp fuse. All I would have to do is connect the wire. Silly stud didn't have a nut though.

To make it switched instead of always on, I guess I could pick up a relay and put between the actual stud/bolt and the trailer power wire, then just wire the energizing section of the relay across ground and something switched. Just not sure what that would be at the moment. Now with these little bitty fuses, it's much harder to jumper off of one.

At least I now know how to get it working. Isn't the Internet great! :)
Why would you want to put a relay on it/make it a switched circuit? The engineers at GM are not complete knuckleheads. The ECM will not let your trailer battery drain your truck batteries beyond a certain level so that you will always have enough juice to crank it. Just plug it in and forget it.
 

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I hope someone sees this OLD thread! I was looking for the nut size and thread count. Feel free to PM me if u have the answer or a direction to point me in. Thx!!
 
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