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SUP YALL!

SO last night my good friend let me try out his welder and well... i put down a decent weld. It is steel and we didn't prep the metal. Simply just messing around.

If anyone here is good at mig welding, give me suggestions or tips! Im looking to get into it and make some $

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Where to start.. Well first I'd say any joint will need to be properly prepped/brushed/cleaned/backgouged. There are many configurations but i'll speak to a fillet. Most mig machines have settings on the inside of your case cover to get you close which helps if you are going drastic changes, like from sheet metal to 1/4". So a fillet weld, run your bead as you will, and then cut it apart. You can see in the cross section if you have proper root fusion (the weld should be fused on each edge, and into the 'root' or the intersection of the 2 pieces.) Pretty much if you can run a good weld like that you can weld anything with a mig. I do mostly stringer passes but some like to weave. vertical connections try to run vertical up. But seriously...75% of GMAW welding is in your joint prep and cleanliness. Its fun ain't it?
 

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Where to start.. Well first I'd say any joint will need to be properly prepped/brushed/cleaned/backgouged. There are many configurations but i'll speak to a fillet. Most mig machines have settings on the inside of your case cover to get you close which helps if you are going drastic changes, like from sheet metal to 1/4". So a fillet weld, run your bead as you will, and then cut it apart. You can see in the cross section if you have proper root fusion (the weld should be fused on each edge, and into the 'root' or the intersection of the 2 pieces.) Pretty much if you can run a good weld like that you can weld anything with a mig. I do mostly stringer passes but some like to weave. vertical connections try to run vertical up. But seriously...75% of GMAW welding is in your joint prep and cleanliness. Its fun ain't it?
Man... thanks for sharing that information. We have a ton of sheet metal/scrap and as long as I buy gas/wire my buddy will let me use his welder anytime. So thats nice. Looking to put in a lot of hours when sitting around the shop bullshitting. 100% a valuable skill to have.


To your point... welding is VERY fun and satisfying.
 

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What are you looking to weld? Heavier steel is much easier than sheet metal IMO. Sheet metal is very temp sensitive and will warp. When doing sheet metal, I stitch very short welds all around the area alternating spots so no area gets too hot. If you try to lay a 6" bead on sheet metal the panel will likely warp leaving you with lots of work.

I had a professional teach me some basic skills one afternoon. Then it was all trial and error playing with heat, wire speed, wire size. In the beginning I practiced what I was going to do on a scrap piece of whatever so i could test the settings before moving to the actual part. The hard part is when something is not working right but you don't understand which setting will fix it. I spent a week of a few hours here and there practicing and I could cover the basics. Takes lots of experience to produce functional AND pretty welds. Let's just say I still use a grinder too much.

And you are correct, not only is it a great skill to have but it is fun as heck. A quick weld has saved many a broken part.
 

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I am in no way a master welder and I only own a small flux core welder from HF but that thing has paid for itself 100x over on my small projects. Welding is super fun. My next welder is going to be a multi unit but honestly the little flux core welder is perfect for smaller stuff and costs next to nothing.
 

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I'd be happy with that bead if you're fairly new to welding.

I got tired of borrowing my neighbors wire welder so I bought my own ($240). It worked really well running this 030 wire. I bought it b/c i've had previous experience welding MIG, stick and flux and knew I would want Amp adjustments (something the cheapest HF unit doesnt give)
It helped me build the structure that holds my Kennedy LP/Filter assembly. I actually used this machine to weld 1/2" on my neighbors skidsteer but we preheated the heck outta it.

I've been eyeballing the Titanium stick welder at HF to have capabilities with thicker metals but... haven't had the need to justify the expense.
 

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So a fillet weld, run your bead as you will, and then cut it apart. You can see in the cross section if you have proper root fusion (the weld should be fused on each edge, and into the 'root' or the intersection of the 2 pieces.)
Not meaning to hijack the thread, just a little more detail. When I've tried to cut a weld I made, to examine it as you recommended, I used an angle grinder w/cutting disc. Couldn't tell where the weld material and base material met cause the disc action wiped the metal smooth. What's the right way to do a cut for exam?
 

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Not meaning to hijack the thread, just a little more detail. When I've tried to cut a weld I made, to examine it as you recommended, I used an angle grinder w/cutting disc. Couldn't tell where the weld material and base material met cause the disc action wiped the metal smooth. What's the right way to do a cut for exam?
A band saw.
 

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Yup a band saw makes a nice cross section. You can etch the surface but i've always been able to see the weld profile just fine without it. The etch just makes it a bit more pronounced. Google it there is so much info out there on welding you'll be reading for days.
My Lincoln 240v 175 mig has been enough up to 1/4" and under, and has been flawless for that light stuff. Just stepped up to an esab tig/stick/mig. Thicker stuff the amperage comes in handy. Got a little Blue Point 110v for my sheet metal work. Sheet metal will warp but, any weld will warp a stick....just saw some 6" C channel warped with heavy welding...that should be fun getting back into shape.
 

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Oh and i used to use an emery disc or of the like on the cross section. If you hack it up with a grinder, you might be able to polish it to where you can see the profile. Likely works best on aluminum as i've done, but may work with steel. I know not everyone has a bandsaw. Could always use a hack saw as well.
 

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Please don’t take this the wrong way, but…

If you’re thinking you’re going to make money with a little mig, I think you’re going to be disappointed. I’m not trying to rain on your parade, but to make money you need to be able to stand behind your work. Image some one having an accident because your weld let go. I’d suggest working for someone that can teach you or at least take some classes. I love seeing people get into the trades!! We need more people and especially young people getting into trades! I wise you the best of luck, but learn your craft and then you can make some money at it.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Please don’t take this the wrong way, but…

If you’re thinking you’re going to make money with a little mig, I think you’re going to be disappointed. I’m not trying to rain on your parade, but to make money you need to be able to stand behind your work. Image some one having an accident because your weld let go. I’d suggest working for someone that can teach you or at least take some classes. I love seeing people get into the trades!! We need more people and especially young people getting into trades! I wise you the best of luck, but learn your craft and then you can make some money at it.


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Absolutely man. Little small projects I can do with a MIG.. nothing major obviously.

The plan is to get good at MIG and then move onto STIG. because STIG welds are much stronger from what I hear and have researched.

Right now I just have to use what i've got and then get a STIG welder.

Thankfully I have a lot of buddies that weld professionally so i'm good there.
 

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I admit i had never heard of STIG welding and had to google it. Using a stick electrode (in place of your tig torch) for your heat then adding in filler as well? that seems tough but it doesn't look that it is very structural. I'd think you'd get a ton of impurities trying to bridge gaps etc. I dont believe its main stream though, and havent heard of it until now. I have however knocked the flux off a 7018 and used it to bridge a gap years ago.
Are simply talking about tig welding GTAW? torch left hand, filler in right, foot on a pedal?
 

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While inverter technology has greatly improved over the years I would suggest if you plan on doing a bunch of welding or .25 inch stuff often then look at doing a 220 VAC welder. The smaller 110 can do some smaller stuff pretty good but you run out of duty time pretty quick. The higher the duty time to the amperage required will help you decide what is best for you. I will say that I have never hear anyone say that they bought a 220 welder and wished they bought a 110 welder. One other thing that is my preference is to get a welder that has infinite speed and amperage adjustments. This allows me to dial in the heat I need for penetration then I can slowly dial in the speed to make the weld "sing". This is that health buzz you get from a properly dialed in MIG that feeding the correct amount of wire for the heat needed. I have both a 220 Century MIG and Miller Econotig for my TIG stuff. Whatever you decide to do make sure to get a good auto darkening hood with a decent sized lense. It will make a world of difference in your welding allowing you to better see what you are doing. Good luck, Dean
 

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I will say that I have never hear anyone say that they bought a 220 welder and wished they bought a 110 welder.
Heat can always be turned DOWN.

One other thing that is my preference is to get a welder that has infinite speed and amperage adjustments.
Whatever you decide to do make sure to get a good auto darkening hood with a decent sized lense.
Spot on.

Love that buzz sound
 

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Heat can always be turned DOWN.




The problem you can run into with a smaller welder is duty cycle. Not so much as an issue with small welds but when running a bead when you hit your duty cycle your amperage will start to taper off effecting your penetration. Needless to say you have a greater duty cycle on a 220v welder that what can be done on a 110v but on lighter stuff this usually is not much of an issue. Dean
 

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A great welder for the beginner is the Miller 211 auto set. With this particular welder instead of choosing a voltage you choose the thickness of the metal that you are welding everything is pre-set up on a dial. Welding 3/8” steel, You may turn the arrow to the center of the area labeled 3/8” as your welding but you find it too hot or too cold you simply turn the dial up or turn it down a bit more until you get the right heat. Overtime you will learn what temperature do you need…
 
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