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I have used one of the dimmer switches out of an older Chevy, the ones you clicked with your foot before. They have been very reliable for many years and they are cheap. I have wired them to the ignition switch and to the coil wires before. Kill switches to me are the best route and can be hidden just about anywhere. Right now I have a locking dsp switch with an anti-theft tune.
 

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Just find your crank wire from ignition switch under dash and cut it extend the wires to a switch (toggle) u can hide it in glove box etc or plain sight(they'll think its a fog lamp toggle this works best when you got four or so in a rowetc... u get the idea..
 

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lifetime warranty and only 55 bucks
I got a quote from the Ravelco distributor in Phoenix for around $500.00, installed.

He told me the harness is integrated into the wiring loom & is undetectable (once it's rewrapped, I guess).

Am I missing something?
 

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^^ sorry I seen them on ebay, It doesn't look that hard to install. I have installed custome stereo's and alarms for many years so somthing like this I think I could handlel.
 

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it's 55 bucks for the part, because it's really just a simple design. The "Key" bridges and completes vital circuits to start the car, i.e. your ignition, cam sensor, fuel pump, vats, starter solenoid, etc. What makes it "impossible" to pick is because each ravelco is bridged differently, so pin 1 and pin 2 on model x of ravelco are the starter solenoid circuits.... while on his buddies modey y, it is pin 2 and pin 24. That's how they come up with the "over a 100,000 different combinations" slogan... figure if there is 16 pins.

The expensive part is the labor, because they have to drill through the firewall, and tap into each of the circuits. if you do some googling you can find some pictures of the actual setup.

It's like a remote start.... the actual part is cheap..... but paying someone to do it is pricey
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just find your crank wire from ignition switch under dash and cut it extend the wires to a switch (toggle) u can hide it in glove box etc or plain sight(they'll think its a fog lamp toggle this works best when you got four or so in a rowetc... u get the idea..
Thats what i ended up doing on mine. Damn glad i got something on there, pulled into the hotel lastnight pulling my 24' enclosed, and they tell me i have to park at their other hotel 5 miles away. Never been far from my truck unless its locked in my shop or backyard.
 
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Thats what i ended up doing on mine. Damn glad i got something on there, pulled into the hotel lastnight pulling my 24' enclosed, and they tell me i have to park at their other hotel 5 miles away. Never been far from my truck unless its locked in my shop or backyard.
Which wire is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I actually just went to the fusebox, pulled a fuse that would keep it from turning over, traced that wire and tapped into it, ran some wires from that to a switch and called it a day.
 

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Ah. I was trying to be lazy by just getting to the point so I wouldn't have to trace!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Can do that too, but on mine everything is run in the factory harness and rewrapped. No splices anywhere to be found as a telltale under the dash for a killswitch
 

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Can do that too, but on mine everything is run in the factory harness and rewrapped. No splices anywhere to be found as a telltale under the dash for a killswitch
I guess you didn't understand what I was getting at. All of the wiring in all of my vehicles is either done by my friend who is a professional installer, or me in the same manner. I am very picky about wiring. The question was simply which wire is it inside the truck and under the dash so I can pick it out and figure out where I want to install the switch :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Oh, i gotchya. Lol. I was too lazy to trace it back to the interior.
 

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If I were to do it I would run a pair of wires in from the ECM C2 connector. Pin 21 pink wire, cut and run to a switch in the dash in plain sight, but out of the way. That way no one would know where they go or anything if they are under the dash trying to hotwire it.

If you don't want to run from under the hood, you could just put in a switch to the Heavy gauge pink wire coming from the ignition switch under the steering column, but that is where a thief would normally bypass the key and steal it anyway.

I already have a switch and a push button in my dash that aren't labeled, another would fit right in. All my wiring outside the cab is soldiered, well protected, and neat looking. Everything I've done in the cab is soldiered and tied in groups. The remote start that was in before I bought it is the only rats nest under the dash. It doesn't work again anyway, I should just get rid of it. They tend to make it easier for thieves to steal a vehicle, since the security bypass is already installed.

I like the looks of that plug. If I lived anywhere near a big city, I would get something like that, but out here it really doesn't make much sense. Most people don't lock their vehicles or their houses. Too many guns around, I guess, it's not safe for thieves.
 

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Just find your crank wire from ignition switch under dash and cut it extend the wires to a switch (toggle) u can hide it in glove box etc or plain sight(they'll think its a fog lamp toggle this works best when you got four or so in a rowetc... u get the idea..
That's good info. This is on my must do list.
 

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Hi folks....sorry to revive this very old thread. Hope I'm not breaking any rules.

I'm curious to know if there is a fuse in the small fuse panel adjacent the driver's door, that I could pull and keep the truck from starting?

For now, I'd like to be able to simply pull a fuse if I"m in a sketchy place.
If it works well, then i'll consider running a wire and toggle switch.

Would prefer to tap into this small sub-panel instead of the main fuse box under the hood.

Thanks!
 

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Well, there's a fuse called "IGN 3" in the place that you were referring to (called the "Instrument Panel Fuse Block). It's described in your owner's manual.

Pull that and see if your truck starts without it.
 

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efi seems best so you can still remote start and warm truck up.
 

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But lets say you have a locking dsp5 and the thief just cuts the wires to it. I kno if a switch is broken it will run the first tune, so your#1 tube would have to be anti theft
 

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My one motorcycle has a neat little, homemade setup on it. Simple toggle switch to enable the system hidden under the tank cover. Could be put in a glove box, center console or wherever you wish. Mercury switch from an old furnace thermostat mounted to frame and another switch on battery cover to act as triggers, double pole 12V relay and turnsignal relay. Once enabled, if any of the triggers were actuated it would disable the ignition and sound the horn; thieves don't like to draw attention.
 
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