Today, I serviced the PS/HB system with a flush; I took some pictures and thought I’d share my procedure I do regularly to prolong the life of the PS and HB units and keep them functioning properly.
ITEMS NEEDED:
Drain pan
Large channel-lock pliers
5-6’ of 5/16” Fuel Line Hose (3/8" will work also, it's just what I had on hand. Clear hose to view fluid is another choice.)
Scrap piece of 1x6
Small funnel
2-3 quarts p/s fluid, Just buy a Gallon Jug, it's cheaper.
![Image]()
I'm currently using Royal Purple synthetic, but plain PS fluid is fine. I pull heavy in bad traffic and experience higher heat levels than the average user. I've experimented with few different syn ATF with mixed results. None proved superior, some were actually detrimental to performance. Looking for a synthetic PS fluid has proven to be an elusive endeavor. At this time of edit, only RP and AmsOil offer syn ps fluid. Again, regular PS fluid is fine to use.
Here we have the culprit at hand,
![Image]()
CAUTION: in the picture below, you’ll see the curved metal brace coming from the cowl. I STRONGLY recommend you place a rag, towel, blanket, or some kind of cushion in this area.
![Image]()
When giving the final pull on the LP return hose, the release/recoil will have the underside of your wrist striking this, with potential gashes and blood spilled on your truck, resulting in you cussing me later. GrrRRrr I pull mine regularly and it comes off much easier than one that's been on for 70-80k miles.
(Edited with input from DF member fflmlf)
Open the PS reservoir cap to relieve any excess pressure BEFORE pulling the return line hose shown below.
Compressing the spring clamp,
![Image]()
turn the hose left and right to break the seal, then pull back off the nipple.
![Image]()
There will be a slight leak of fluid from the hose end when removed, so have a rag or paper towel in hand to catch and not make a mess.
The curved end of the hose (with rag/towel over end) will hook over where the Hydro-Boost unit meets the Master Cylinder, it'll be out of your way and not leak more fluid out.
Re-using the OEM spring clamp, I secure the drain hose at the HB unit
![Image]()
and lay the board down to hold the hose in place with the drain pan in site from the Driver’s seat.
![Image]()
With the engine running and in Park, SLOWLY depress the brake pedal till it feels firm at the bottom and hold, turn the steering wheel from 12-3 o’clock and hold, release the pedal SLOWLY to the top, then bring the wheel back to 12 o’clock. Look down and you'll see the flow and then you can adjust your speed of press and release actions so as not to spray fluid out of the drain pan. It may take 2-3 times before you see the fluid start to flow.
Here we see the old, burnt, and dirty fluid beginning to flow.
![Image]()
.....................Continued on the next post, I'm too picture happy to conform here.
ITEMS NEEDED:
Drain pan
Large channel-lock pliers
5-6’ of 5/16” Fuel Line Hose (3/8" will work also, it's just what I had on hand. Clear hose to view fluid is another choice.)
Scrap piece of 1x6
Small funnel
2-3 quarts p/s fluid, Just buy a Gallon Jug, it's cheaper.
I'm currently using Royal Purple synthetic, but plain PS fluid is fine. I pull heavy in bad traffic and experience higher heat levels than the average user. I've experimented with few different syn ATF with mixed results. None proved superior, some were actually detrimental to performance. Looking for a synthetic PS fluid has proven to be an elusive endeavor. At this time of edit, only RP and AmsOil offer syn ps fluid. Again, regular PS fluid is fine to use.
Here we have the culprit at hand,
CAUTION: in the picture below, you’ll see the curved metal brace coming from the cowl. I STRONGLY recommend you place a rag, towel, blanket, or some kind of cushion in this area.
When giving the final pull on the LP return hose, the release/recoil will have the underside of your wrist striking this, with potential gashes and blood spilled on your truck, resulting in you cussing me later. GrrRRrr I pull mine regularly and it comes off much easier than one that's been on for 70-80k miles.
(Edited with input from DF member fflmlf)
Open the PS reservoir cap to relieve any excess pressure BEFORE pulling the return line hose shown below.
Compressing the spring clamp,
turn the hose left and right to break the seal, then pull back off the nipple.
There will be a slight leak of fluid from the hose end when removed, so have a rag or paper towel in hand to catch and not make a mess.
The curved end of the hose (with rag/towel over end) will hook over where the Hydro-Boost unit meets the Master Cylinder, it'll be out of your way and not leak more fluid out.
Re-using the OEM spring clamp, I secure the drain hose at the HB unit
and lay the board down to hold the hose in place with the drain pan in site from the Driver’s seat.
With the engine running and in Park, SLOWLY depress the brake pedal till it feels firm at the bottom and hold, turn the steering wheel from 12-3 o’clock and hold, release the pedal SLOWLY to the top, then bring the wheel back to 12 o’clock. Look down and you'll see the flow and then you can adjust your speed of press and release actions so as not to spray fluid out of the drain pan. It may take 2-3 times before you see the fluid start to flow.
Here we see the old, burnt, and dirty fluid beginning to flow.
.....................Continued on the next post, I'm too picture happy to conform here.
