What's the loaded total weight (and pin weight) of your 5W? Second question being your payload of your truck, which eventually leads to whether the truck is actally rated to handle the load. If you don't know, I'd recommend hooking up your rig and running it through CAT scales at your nearest truck stop. I think it costs $12 or so and will give you all the numbers you need. Or, if there is a free public access scale in your area (gravel yard, grain elevator, etc.) you can calculate all the numbers. Here is a guide with instructions.

On a 2011 your truck's actual weight (when it left the factory) should be printed on a yellow DOT sticker in the driver's doorjamb. Subtract that number from the trucks GVWR and that's your available payload. Keep in mind that all cargo weight in the truck (including people beyond the driver) will subtract from the payload number. As you mentioned, it's not that you can't physically pull the load as you've been doing it... but if the truck is overloaded based on how it was factory-designed, that would at least explain the squat.

 

but if the truck is overloaded based on how it was factory-designed, that would at least explain the squat.

Well the dealer I bought from says I’m not over loaded, but I wouldn’t be surprised if I am. GVWR of the RV is 16,000lbs with a hitch weight of 2600lbs. Not sure on my truck as I am out of town so can’t look at the sticker. I know the GVWR of it is 10,000lbs but that’s all I remember.

I’m mostly just curious if anyone has experience on having both air bags and helper leaf springs? If it was worth it, if it improves handling and ride while towing? Or if I’m just over thinking it and my bags are doing their job as long as the psi is under the 100psi?

 

Oh I should probably also add that my truck is levelled. So I am sure it’s “appears” to squat much more than it would if the front sat factory height. When I level it out with my bags for towing, I an having to raise the back to “unloaded level” not “level with the factory front.” If that makes sense.

 

air bags is all you need.

 

With 2,600 lbs of pin weight, it almost doesn’t make sense that you need 80 psi in the air bags to keep it at stock height.

 

That’s what I’ve thought too. Truck has always squatted bad though, so I don’t think it’s from my springs being worn out.

 

2600 Lbs is the Pin for an empty trailer. With a 16K gross your loaded pin is more likely between 3000 to 3500 Lbs. So you are probably in the area of 1000 to 1500 Lbs over weight and probably exceeding your tire capacity also.
Your choice but not a good place to be in the event of an accident.

 

It’s possible. I do run the highest rated tires I can. Nitto Terra G2 295/70r18, rated for 4080lbs.

 

Adding helper springs or air bags wont increase the total load your truck can carry. Just need to be careful about where this load is applied to the frame.

 

I know

 

Are your OE rear axle leaf spring packs in good shape? The OE spring packs In my LBZ are getting tired. Before airbags with the truck completely empty the primary spring pack is sitting on the overloads. I added airlift bags and keep them at 5 psi unloaded and that got me off the overloads. However, when I tow the ride is pretty “bouncy”. I run 35 psi unloaded then add the hitch weight.

 

I think they are, my bags have been installed for a few years now. But the truck would squat a lot even when it was 2 years old (right after I purchased it used). It’s definitely not bouncy when I tow, feels just fine. And like I said earlier, I don’t think it squats as much as I thought because I forgot that with the truck being levelled, it’s going to appear to squat a lot more, vs a stock truck that sits a couple inches lower in the front.

 

Scaling your rig Is good info.

 

I would unlevel the front of the truck 1st. The trucks come with a factory rake so when you are hauling the truck is slightly raked or level. With the truck level or slightly raked front down it helps to keep a negative air pressure under the truck in the area of the radiator and front of the motor. This helps to pull air through the cooling stack. Once the front is higher than the rear the area under the front of the truck becomes an air grab and builds pressure instead of a vac on the stack. Trying to maintain the negative area just behind the radiator is the reason for the extra air dam below the front bumper on many trucks.

What weight rating air bags do you have? 80 psi gives different amount of of load lift depending on bag rated capacity.

 

I have Air Lift bags and yesterday I had to pump them up to 75psi to get much action out of them with a 40ft XLR Boost triple axle toy hauler. I have no idea on the pin weight but being an empty toy hauler, it was substantial.

I think our springs are softer than most. Mine is a 2012 dually so it probably has one leaf more than your 2011 2500. I've already replaced the driver's side stack due to sagging. I think they're so long that they don't hold up much weight very well. This is undoubtedly for ride quality which is probably better than the competition. But it seems like the other guys can hold weight up better without sagging as much.

 

My 5er is 39ft, only dual axle. Yeah, I believe it’s only one less spring. Maybe so, cause my truck has squatted even before it was old enough for them to be worn out.

 

I had Hellwig helper springs on my previous truck and now have air bags on my current truck. Not a fan of the helper springs because they stiffen the ride when unloaded. Air bags are the best option for both worlds, low pressure when not towing and adjustable higher pressure when towing. The 80 psi is not a big deal, I have used this pressure many times when hauling heavy equipment. If you are worried about this, they do offer a heavy duty 7,500 lb. air bag option (click on LoadLifter 7500 XL web link below).

LoadLifter 7500 XL

 

Thank you! I was hoping to hear from someone that has had the helper springs and could tell me what they are like. I definitely don’t want a harsher ride. I will stick to just my air bags then. If I were to add anything else, it might would be the extra over load spring that comes on the 3500.

 

Juding from these posts, there must be tremendous differences in the rear springs, from truck to truck as they came down the assembly line. Mine, bone stock, was so stiffly sprung it was simply unuseable on our roads, even when loaded. I had a shop remove one of the leafs - is now tolerable on those rare occasions when we use it as back-up transportation. Our primary use is to haul our "toys" - both trailers weigh around 11,000 lbs. bumper hitch - roughly 1,200 lbs. Plus around 900 lbs. of jet ski in the 8 ft. bed. Now, with that leaf removed, it rides almost as smoothly as a light duty pick up, and, of course is level. I did install air-shocks - run 30 lbs psi. just to absorb the really bad bumps on some of those trips to Californicated. I do agree - for any number of reasons one's truck should ride level. But I "get it"....for maximum load capacity, and, of course, to "look cool" you need VERY stiff springs in back to get that neato "foward rake" some folks want.

 

I agree with you that these trucks have an extremely stiff rear suspension from the factory (especially 3500’s). So stiff they will literally walk themselves into a ditch on a washboard gravel road. I do understand this is a 1-ton truck and a somewhat stiff suspension is to be expected. However, I have replaced the stock setup on previous trucks with an aftermarket spring pack using thinner leaves and a higher leaf-count which maintains the same payload capacity with a much more compliant ride (on this truck I decided to try out Sulastic shackles, which greatly improved the ride quality as well). Point is, we should not need to modify the rear suspension on a 70k truck because the manufacturer saved a few dollars and cents by using a lower leaf count and thicker material on the leaf spring pack. Hate to say it, but the new Ram 1500’s with the factory air bag option is the best factory setup to date. Hopefully the other truck manufacturer’s can pull their heads out of their a-sses and also offer a factory air bag option, especially on the heavy duty trucks (I’d be willing to spend another $1,000 for this factory option).

Side Note: The best GM truck suspension setup I have owned to date regarding ride quality was my Avalanche with coil springs front and rear. Add air bags to that rear suspension setup and you have a very nice ride with payload capacity when needed.

 

You know how many times I’ve thought I wish GM and the others would look at big truck options like on Kenworth, Pete, etc? Many of these heavy duty pickup trucks are being used for hotshotting and other heavy OTR towing chores and the drivers would greatly appreciate some of the big truck amenities like air ride. True air ride doesn’t even need a spring, just an air bag, and they ride so much softer as well as automatically air up to maintain ride height. I mean we have “jake brakes” now, why not air ride?