looking to buy a durmax, but don't want to break the bank on gas.

Definitely won't be a problem

 

One word LML

 

Best year is debatable. As of now I would say 2008 since I have under $4000 in repairs since new with 402,000 miles on the truck.

 

'17 - '19

 

read the forums, most people will say the year they own! My first Duramax was the one I have now, at first thought I was stupid buying first L5P, then I figured they would try there best to impress so first year would be good, besides usual stuff Im happy

 

Yeah, I like my 2002 - even with the model specific injector problems. Why? I haven't paid a truck note in 19 years. Gotta like that!

 

The 2006 and 2007 are kinda the holy grail but the 2007.5-2010 are very dependable although they do have the exhaust filter. Avoid the 2011-2016 if you can. The 2017-2019 as mentioned are very good trucks albeit they do have some quirks here and there with emissions equipment and so on but in my opinion are very stout trucks. 2020+ have the same and some different problems and seem to almost have more than the 2017-2019s do.

 

2024 Mini Max...... hands down. Unless your some kind of Hot Shot Heavy Hauler type..... the Mini Max will get most of what you need done. I adore this thing......

 

21’ Mini max here and I agree with this statement

 

LBZ but the problem is they are 18-19 years old now

 

447k on 07 LBZ and no major issues, electrical or otherwise, best vehicle I have ever had. Water pumps and wheel bearings like all the other Dmax trucks, extremely dependable, still take long trips and pull trailers.

 

None are the best, none are the worst. Buy the one that hauls and tows the weight you need, is the configuration you need, and is in your budget. Then make sure to set aside plenty of money for repairs a maintenance.

 

None are the best, none are the worst. Buy the one that hauls and tows the weight you need, is the configuration you need, and is in your budget. Then make sure to set aside plenty of money for repairs a maintenance.

This.
After I bought my truck I heard from numerous people the “general rule of thumb” is unless you make over 70k a year and have 10k in the bank you have no business owning a diesel.
While that might not be all of us, myself included. I do think that’s a somewhat reasonable consensus.
You do need somewhat deep pockets.
A; to buy/afford a diesel truck
B; to maintain said diesel truck
And C; to pay for expensive repairs on said diesel truck

 

More info required!

Type (weight, aero, speed) of towing matters.
Daily driving (speed, distance, stops/starts) requirements too.

Newer 6.6's have more torque and hp than old ones.
2011 and newer have a significantly improved chassis -- frame, front end, brakes.
Older ones are not as tall to climb into.
and 1500 are not as tall as the HD's.

1500 will get way better fuel economy, but there is not way it can handle the loads that the HD's are capable of.
(might be better than the mid-sized ones too)


We don't know if your tasks require a dually or a mid-size canyon/colorado.

 

Lots of folks who sell a used diesel, regardless of the year or mileage, are selling a money pit they are tired of dealing with.
Used Duramax's are no exception.
Choose carefully.

 

Especially if it's been 'tuned'

 

My LML pulling my dragster trailer at about 6k pounds and 15 mpg. Pulls effortless.

My Mini Max pulling the same trailer at the same weight. 19 mpg. Pulls effortless.

LML unloaded. About 18 mpg. Mini Max unloaded about 28 mpg.

I have no doubt as to which truck, is better for me.

I went from Orange County to Bakersfield for the drags last weekend. This is empty, 99% freeway, even crossing the Grapevine Hill with 4 people and two big coolers in the bed. I LOVE this truck.

 

My Mini Max pulling the same trailer at the same weight. 19 mpg. Pulls effortless.

Got 20 mpg today.......

 

Everyone hates on lmls but cp3 conversion and a lift pump and your good to go. Plus that forbidden word if you can

 

LML, lift pump, fuel additive and if you wish a cp3 conversion however there are many lmls going over 300k with lift pump and no cp3 w no problems. It’s the first year Duramax that can burn up to B20 and the oldest model that still has the improved chassis and tow numbers. Anything before will start to gum up and let’s not fool ourselves they are going to increase biodiesel wherever we like it or not. LML engine is bulletproof and besides cp4 grenading have no real issues, I would have an extra TCM under the seat just in case but that’s a tranny issue, the 6 speed has been amazing and the overdrive in 4WL is impressive. I don’t agree with tuning, the engine and transmission don’t take it well for a lasting truck. Mods yes but tuning no. The LML was voted one of the best diesel engines ever made in its class, the cast is solid and the alloy was well developed. One last thing, even though it’s tempting, try not to “slam” the accelerator if you absolutely don’t need to, especially if towing, adds a lot of stress and if can should be avoided to add to longevity

 

Nice write there Bud. I would never run bio though. Totally agree on the NO TUNING part.

 

I have a 2007.5 LTZ 4wheel drive, it’s got 215.000 and runs like new Wow for a Chevy that’s great

 

Processed bio will not gum up, however it can "waxup" in cold weather, I run heaters and don't have that issue. You can run processed bio interchangeably with diesel without any issues, I do it all the time on long trips when I can't carry enough bio for the entire run. Bio will clean your fuel system should you decide to run B-100, just carry an extra fuel filter or 2. Once the fuel system is clean, you shouldn't have any more filter issues. I have been doing this hands on for close to 20 years. There is a lot of misinformation out there, do your research so you know what you are talking about.