Just so you know, you are posting in the 1/2 ton LM2 ("Baby Duramax") forum....

 

Damn it. Thanks for letting me know 👍

 

Very similar to the previous generation chassis. If you did the 2012 you can do this one. Will need to either remove shock or sway bar link to let CV end come through but that should be about it.

 

Thanks Nate

Just got done with it. I got lucky and Stingray Chevrolet in Bartow, FL (45 minutes form the house) had one on the shelf. I did have to pull the tie rod and upper ball joint, and shock off the truck to get enough articulation to pull the shaft out of the back of the spindle assembly. I paid $312 for the shaft and $10 for a new lock nut (I probably could have reused the existing now that I look at it). I found the axle for just over $200 on various GM parts dealers online, but I had the time this weekend to knock it out so I went local.

I have the 7 volume FSM set on the shelf for my 2012 LML and referred to those torque specs for getting everything back together. The factory threadlocker on the CV axle flange bolts are pretty damn stubborn but I got them out.

 

Code4,
What are the torque specs on the axle nut and flange nuts?

I just had the same exact thing happen to my driver side CV axle. I’m replacing it tomorrow!

thanks!
Adam

 

The in board flange bolts are 58 lb-ft, axle nut is 188 lb-ft.

 

Thank you very much, sir!

 

Code4,

Might I also trouble you for the torque specs for the other parts you mentioned having to remove?

tie rod
upper ball joint
shock

(My apologies. I should have thought of that before.)😣🙄

 

This isn’t a thread hikack here. Rather, I’m thankful for CODE4’s thread and simply want to add to it.

I just completed this same repair. Mine was on the Driver side. Thanks to CODE4 for this thread. These trucks are so new, information was scarce and sometimes scattered, so I was happy to find this relevant thread.

For anyone else’s future reference:
I did NOT unfasten my Upper Balljoint, as CODE4 did. I was able to carefully weasel my CV axle out by incrementally turning my steering wheel left/right when needed, and by unfastening the following parts:

Sway Bar End Links (bottom bolt, both sides)
Lower Shock mount bolt
Removed (pried out) yellow forward bump stop

I didn’t have proper torque specs for the Upper Balljoint, so I didn’t want to remove it if possible. But I’ll bet doing so makes much more room to maneuver the CV axle in/out. Because it was so tight weaseling the old CV axle out, before I installed the new one, I wrapped each boot with ziplock bags and also wrapped them in black Gorilla tape. Didn’t want the boots getting torn on the way in!

couple of notes:

The CV boots look and feel like a plastic, not the thick rubber I’m used to seeing.

While using my ratchet and deep socket to remove the 8 flange bolts, I noticed that the head of the ratchet could very easily make contact with and pinch the CV boot lip and possibly tear it! Just be mindful of that! My torn boot actually looked like that could have been the cause of the tear. But I can’t prove that to the dealership. (They had just finished warranty work on my Steering Gear when my service writer informed me of my torn boot). 🤨

 

Why are ya’ll not doing this under warranty? My passenger side boot did the same thing and my dealer is replacing it under warranty. I have 31,500 miles.