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Finally Did the EGR Delete and MBRP Down Pipe

16K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  Websterc  
#1 ·
Ok... so let me start off with this. I have alot of experience wrenching on various cars and trucks, I have done some custom fabrication jobs and lots and lots of bolt on mods.

This EGR Delete and Downpipe was top 3 hardest things I have ever had to do to a vehicle...

Starting with the downpipe from MBRP - The quality of the pipe is excellent the actual fitment of the pipe is excellent... now the bad... removing the stock one is the largest PITA ever!! I dont care what anyone else says or did, REMOVE THE HEAT SHIELD!!! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD REMOVE IT!!! It took me 30 min to have everything unbolted and ready to go to drop the downpipe out of the truck... 6 hours later after contimplating removing the cab from the truck I decided to audition for cirque de soliel and play contortionist to remove the heat shield from a stuck down pipe. I then used the winch on my 2015 Can-am XMR to remove that SOB from the truck! Once the heatshield was out of the way I literally gave the downpipe half a turn and it dropped to the floor!

EGR Delete from DRP - The EGR removal was actually not to bad at all, yeah there are some bolts that can be hard to get to and yes you will basically be on the cutting edge of a hernia the majority of the time due to planking across the engine and supporting your body with your chin on the turbo... but in all honesty it was not to bad... now the bad... The fitment of the passenger side up pipe was garbage... the kit suggests reusing the bolts and gaskets from the original uppipe... dont! Once I had the truck back together and took it for a test run I had the wonderful sound of a high pitched squeel at about 8PSI of boost... went back under the truck found a leak through the gasket at the manifold! awesome! give that bolt a slight tur.... SNAP ... SON OF A B**CH... sure enough snapped the bolt off in the manifold... nothing a 120$ right angle drill and some kobalt coated drill bits cant handle... 6 hours later she was drilled out and a new bolt was installed.

My uppipe is still leaking and I have 5 new bolts (one is no longer the stock size) and two new gaskets to replace the uppipe hardware when I get back home in a few weeks from work!

Thoughts so far, turbo sounds lounder, wouldnt say there are huge power gains but from the seat of your pants dyno it feels a bit quicker!

Thanks for listening to my rant!:thumb
 
#2 ·
I will be honest, it took me a really long time to do my EGR delete also. I paid someone to do the downpipe and manifolds up pipes. I tell people I have bled sweat cried and made love to my truck, but its something most of us all do, keep on keeping on man!:gearjamin:gearjamin
 
#3 ·
I'm surprised the DP took that long..I've done quite a few and usually takes about 10-15 mins...did you try to slide it straight to the ground? That's the hard way and the heat shield will most likely have to be removed....the easy way is to slide it thru the fender well above the frame. It comes right out with ease in whole. As far as the EGR delete kit...order some ARP up pipe bolts! Worth every penny. I'm assuming you used a DRP kit? Was it their up pipe that didn't fit good?
 
#4 ·
Well yes I did try to slide it to the ground between the frame rail and the transmission. I watched a video of Thuroughbred Diesel on YouTube do the downpipe. I noticed that everytime the camera cut out and there was a long break it was due to him fighting with something lol.

I just got new factory bolts, but now that I know of the ARP ones im going to order them right now
 
#6 ·
Ive done 2 trucks now, my 2011 had about 65k when i did the delete and went pretty smooth. Used a factory lbz up pipe no leaks and used old gaskets. My new 2015 i did around 700 miles and everything but the up pipe came out with ease. Me and my buddy broke 2 sockets and stripped the shit out of the bolt head. Luckily i was able to get all the other bolts out and just turn the whole pipe as he was turning the bolt. Needless to say it finally came out and the modified lml uppipe went back in place without problems. Just my 2 cents
 
#8 ·
Yeah if I continue to have leaks with the new gaskets and bolts im going to just modify my stock LML uppipe and reinstall that one. Ordered up some ARP bolts for when I get home!

My MBRP one comes out like butter no problem at all, but the stock one was absolute hell. I do remeber trying over the frame out the wheel well and it didnt go well either, with the heat shield off maybe!
 
#9 ·
Good Job, when I was finished with mine I actually had bruises on my ribs from laying in the engine bay for so long. The Driver up pipe was a complete PAIN, but I find worth it. Good luck on the leaks!!
 
#10 ·
I can relate. After three days of working on the truck I felt like I was in a street fight and lost horribly! lol
 
#12 ·
Haha sounds like my recent weekend. Did a magnaflow down pipe and hsp 3" high flow kit.

I'll agree with the heat shield, as soon as that was out the down pipe fell right out (also removed the transmission dipstick). I was able to pull the heat shield out the top but I did have the turbo heat shield off aswell.

As for gaskets for the manifold I have always replaced then. Hopefully when I take mine for a ride I don't find any leaks. None will idling and applying throttle. But it's hard to find a leak by myself.

Cheers on a hard one!


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#13 ·
So when i delete my '15, EGR delete with modified LML up pipe, then downpipe, exhaust, tune and lift pump? Seems pretty simple.
 
#14 ·
I have to drop the tranny when I installed my uppipe up wrong. Bolt got wielded into the turbo manifold and snapped off. I the ordered 9 new bolts and three new gaskets (passenger and driver turbo manifold and the passenger exhaust manifold. It is a true PITA!
 
#15 ·
Can I ask what the purpose of changing the Drivers side Uppipe is? Is the stock one much more restrictive than the passenger side after deletes??

My thoughts would be if your replacing it with a larger or better flowing unit than wouldnt that cause issues between pressures on the drivers and passenger side banks of the engine?? My DRP passenger side uppipe has the same dimensions as the stock one just minus the EGR elbow.

maybe im over thinking it?? lol
 
#16 ·
Caleb_6R - you got all the basics there get yourself a good intake and dont forget to get Fuel sump!!! I just ordered one, its a great compliment for a lift pump!
 
#17 ·
I didn't change the drivers side up-pipe. I replaced the drivers side up-pipe gasket at the turbo manifold, because of the exhaust leak on the passenger side up-pipe turbo manifold. My EGTs were about 1200 degrees at WOT. I no longer had a gasket on the passenger side when I went to replace the gasket and was pretty sure I caused damage to the drivers side gasket.
 
#18 ·
your modified passenger uppipe is identical to the drivers side, whether you bought one of modified your own. I changed both of my up-pipes with profabs and profab manifolds. So everything still flows the same on both banks just better flow than stock all around.
 
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#19 ·
Ok... so let me start off with this. I have alot of experience wrenching on various cars and trucks, I have done some custom fabrication jobs and lots and lots of bolt on mods.

This EGR Delete and Downpipe was top 3 hardest things I have ever had to do to a vehicle...

Starting with the downpipe from MBRP - The quality of the pipe is excellent the actual fitment of the pipe is excellent... now the bad... removing the stock one is the largest PITA ever!! I dont care what anyone else says or did, REMOVE THE HEAT SHIELD!!! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD REMOVE IT!!! It took me 30 min to have everything unbolted and ready to go to drop the downpipe out of the truck... 6 hours later after contimplating removing the cab from the truck I decided to audition for cirque de soliel and play contortionist to remove the heat shield from a stuck down pipe. I then used the winch on my 2015 Can-am XMR to remove that SOB from the truck! Once the heatshield was out of the way I literally gave the downpipe half a turn and it dropped to the floor!

EGR Delete from DRP - The EGR removal was actually not to bad at all, yeah there are some bolts that can be hard to get to and yes you will basically be on the cutting edge of a hernia the majority of the time due to planking across the engine and supporting your body with your chin on the turbo... but in all honesty it was not to bad... now the bad... The fitment of the passenger side up pipe was garbage... the kit suggests reusing the bolts and gaskets from the original uppipe... dont! Once I had the truck back together and took it for a test run I had the wonderful sound of a high pitched squeel at about 8PSI of boost... went back under the truck found a leak through the gasket at the manifold! awesome! give that bolt a slight tur.... SNAP ... SON OF A B**CH... sure enough snapped the bolt off in the manifold... nothing a 120$ right angle drill and some kobalt coated drill bits cant handle... 6 hours later she was drilled out and a new bolt was installed.

My uppipe is still leaking and I have 5 new bolts (one is no longer the stock size) and two new gaskets to replace the uppipe hardware when I get back home in a few weeks from work!

Thoughts so far, turbo sounds lounder, wouldnt say there are huge power gains but from the seat of your pants dyno it feels a bit quicker!

Thanks for listening to my rant!:thumb
One of the second items I bought after purchasing my truck, to high for my old work truck..

Makes my life sooooo much less painful......:D
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#20 ·
Oh now that is a great idea!! Is it adjustable for lifted trucks??
 
#21 ·
Topside creeper

Yep, I like this one it has a bit more maneuverability due the single support in the center to maneuver around the front wheels of the truck..
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#22 ·
Whats the brand and where did you buy it? Ive been looking at these for a while now after installing the block off plates in the LBZ... Now Ive got all the goodies in my sig to install on the LML and could definitely use one lol
 
#23 · (Edited)
Amazon, Summit right around $300.00 ouch I paid $220.00 for mine a little over a year ago, Traxion 3-700. I looked at the pictures of most of them and this one as I can attest to with the single bar "I beam" down the center works better than I though it would. The "H" design appeared it would limit movement around the front tire....
 
#24 ·
Unbolt trans mount, and lift the trans up with a jack. That bit of extra room created between the engine and the firewall will allow you to drop the pipe right out without having to remove the heat shield.
 
#25 ·
That actually makes sense, and would have fell into place with the original instructions. I decided not to remove that bracket and just remove the pipe hangers, not having the DPF or CAT I was able to wiggle it off the truck.

Thanks for the tip thought, hopefully someone else can use that info!