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How To: EGR block off in LMM !!

238K views 405 replies 117 participants last post by  Eagleye88  
#1 ·
Ok...after much swearing and general deliberation I think I've come up with an easy system to install an EGR block off plate in a 07.5-09 LMM. You will need :

Moving blanket or other thick blanket
2 Stubby flat blade screw drivers..I like the craftsman ones
1 12mm ratcheting wrench
1 14mm stubby open end wrench
Tin snips/hack saw/band saw

First thing to start with is removing the intake elbow from the filter box and the turbo inlet tube and set it aside. Then remove the silencer (large plastic box with the 6.6 on it) it's clamped on the underside to the turbo inlet tube and fastened in the front by a torx fastener. Now, lay the blanket over the air box and the engine bay on the passenger side up to the turbo inlet....this makes working back there ten times better. The EGR pieces you're looking for are located almost at the firewall on the passenger side of the compartment. Remove the small sensor that is screwed into the engine side of the EGR piece and move it out of the way...this will take a 14mm open end wrench. You now have as much access as you're going to get and this is where the 12mm ratcheting wrench will be your best friend. Loosen the 2 12mm nuts holding the EGR mating surfaces together...they face the firewall and are offset from one and other passenger side lower than the driver side. THEY ARE VERY TIGHT !!! You may need to link another box end wrench on your ratcheting wrench to get enough leverage to get them off...be persistent. Now the fun part...with both nuts fully removed wedge one stubby screwdriver at the top of the mating surface and pry like your life depends on it...mine was exceptionally tight. (Make sure the gasket is on the firewall side mating surface) Once you have the parts separated take the other screwdriver and wedge it in on the outside of the driver side bolt sideways. Keep working the two screwdrivers until you can get the sideways screwdriver pushed in almost almost all the way down the blade...trust me it will stay in place. Take the EGR block off plate you purchase from your retailer...I used the one from Meyer performance...and snip the ears off the far side of each plate. It should wind up looking like it's got a hook on either side where the stud will locate it...I trimmed mine like this so you can leave the screwdriver in place while you drop the plate it. Wiggle the plate into position...at this point my plate just about fell into place. Reassemble everything in reverse...don't forget that little sensor you just removed...and you should be EGR deleted. My first attempt at installing the plate took me forever...I just did a buddies truck and it took me 20 minutes start to finish...GOOD LUCK !!!!
:drink
 
#2 ·
Right on Todd, I was just waiting for you to get yours in
guinea pig todd:tease
my coffee table is faster
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the complements guys....I just thought I could pass along some valuable knowledge to the next fella. It's the least I can do....since I've learned so much from everybody here. :rockin
 
#11 ·
Hopefully someone will chime in with some pics here...but the EGR is EVIL!!! It recirculates spent exhaust gases back into the combustion process to lower emission...slightly. Over time the residue left over from this process coats the insides of the turbo outlet...exhaust manifolds and over time reduces performance. Bad stuff....
 
#19 ·
I dont think that there are fingersticks like you said i havent heard of any thing. I think you still have to tune it out.
 
#20 ·
what a nightmare!
finally a few days without rain so it was time for the EGR. It took me about 2 hours
12mm ratchet wrench is a must have, I tried the socket and it doesnt work. The plate doesnt just slide in because there is a lip next to the gap. The slots in the plate needed to be widened with tin snips
After all that I managed to rip the wires out of the air intake temp sensor which is being overnighted to me. The only real hard part for me was the turbo mouth piece, who the hell designs this crap.
ya shoving the wires back into the sensor doesnt work........*&^%#@
 
#22 ·
You would have to get different up pipes and remove the EGR cooler then just reroute the cooler lines but. You basically are doing a lot of extra work that isn't really necessary unless you are worried about coolant leaking into you intake which shouldn't happen unless your cooler fails
 
#23 ·
does having the plate throw any codes?
 
#25 ·
Not with the Quad that you have
 
#24 ·
Has any one done this in depth of an explanation for an LBZ?
 
#26 ·
Basically the same thing but way easier
 
#27 ·
I just went out to block my EGR. Got the turbo resonator and intake elbow off and realized that there is no way my big hands will fit back there to loosen that pipe.
 
#30 ·
OK, finally got to this thing. How do you get those bolts off. I got a ratcheding wrench on them, but only have a couple inches of area to move in back there and can't get them to break free.
 
#31 ·
What Will The Egr Block Plate Do Exactly? And Does Efilive Delete It?
 
#33 ·
I can't get the stupid nuts off. I thought I would try it with the pipes warm and see if they would loosen up, but that didn't help either. These things just don't want to come off.
 
#34 ·
I soaked them in WD40 also, with no results yet.
 
#35 ·
I've had good luck with the ratcheting/open end wrench made by Gearwrench....it's a little longer than a regular wrench and has a pivot on the ratcheting end. Otherwise you're stuck linking two open end/box end wrenches together and swearing a lot. :D
 
#36 ·
I am using a Craftsman ratcheting / open end wrench with the flexible ratcheting end. I think they are the same as the Gearwrench just in a different package. I think I'm gonna go get a flexible end ratchet that is almost 12 inches long. Maybe that will get me the leverage I need and if not it's another tool to add to my collection.