This definitely makes sense-the oil would mix with the soot to make a big chunky, globby mess which would build up.

I know the EGR is an easy thing to block on my LBZ, but then there are the codes and emissions tests I have to deal with. The PCV reroute won't/shouldn't cause any codes and is easy to remove and put back to stock yearly if I need to.

Thanks for your reply. The wealth of information on this forum provided by you and all the other members and contributors is amazing!

 

Your welcome.
That's the way it should be, trying to help others with ?'s

 

So it would be the PCV that is creating the oily mess on my intercooler and small oil spots on my driveway under my passenger fender right?

 

YEPPER that would be the reason.
Also check and keep those blue turbo-intercooler hoses tight, they have been known to blow off at the worst moment, especially when oil soaked.
If you have a hard time getting to the clamp on the lower blue hose connected to the intercooler if you remove the inner wheel liner its easy to get to.

Doing the PCV re-route will NOT cause any codes.

 

hey guys im outside messing with mine right now, i cant seem to figure out where the sensor is....any help?

 

Are you talking about the one to unplug or the one take out to block?


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http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123023


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Let me see if I can get a better pic., like 09 said if your careful no need to remove, I did just in case.


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See if this helps blue tape on sensor wire. Also it's on the passenger side close to the back. Also you can see the tab on block plate


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hmmm i totally see what youre talking about now, but when i look to where that is, it just looks like a nub is there. no bolt or anything..just a piece of metal that pokes out but there is no hole or anything..not sure what that means. i would post a pic but this phone is so crappy im surprised its letting me post.

 

zeus, sent u a pm:neener

 

I would check it but on my phone it doesnt allow me to go to inbox Its a miracle it lets me even post on threads

 

I wonder if it's just located somewhere else... Also in that link I posted those first set of pics, the last two you can see the hole where the sensor has been removed.

Are you doing the block as we speak?

 

Yeah i see the hole for sure. On that same spot on mine, the spot is there, but picture the hole being nonexistent and it just being like a metal nub there. looks like an outy belly button haha. smooth, no hole, no bolt or nut, just looks like its a part of the egr. Yeah i am i'm trying to remove the 12mms right now....not going well at all i'ma definitely have to get the tools in your thread.

 

I bet they switched coolers or something, and yeah those nuts are stubborn sons a bitches. If I was closer I'd help ya out.


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Yeah, i just hope it still isnt in danger of getting hurt, wherever it is. Yeah wasn't expecting it to be this bad!! You may actually be able to help, the socket wrench you used with a swiveling head, what is the exact name for that, im bout to head to the store. also, what length was it? For both the passenger and driver. I've never connected a box end to a socket...is there a certain box end that i need or do they just connect? And finally, that box end wrench you used on the driver side, is it necessary or will a regular one that doesnt swivel work? Sorry for all the questions i just dont want to have to go back into town:thumb

 

I think it's about a 12" plus the pivot head used a 12mm deepwell socket and just used a 3/4 closed end wrench to hook onto the ratchet. I'm not home anymore so I can't measure it but will if you need when I get there.


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Nah i was just asking for reference as to what size to look for. I got one for 13$ but its a little different from yours the place where the socket goes doesnt have like its own seperate piece to swivel its not near as nice...its so long i'm having a hard time getting it to the bolt on the top part. its tough getting the head to turn at the right angle to get on the bolt. It may be because my wrench cant swivel as much because it doesnt have a seperate piece for the head and socket. Idk if that makes sense haha. gonna have to tackle this tomorrow.

 

Here is a shot of what I used on driver side nut(upper), it was awkward. You have to get your right hand back there to hold the socket on, then use the link and give it hell. The passenger side nut(lower) is a lot easier, used the same ratchet with wrench and went through the fender well. Just used ratchet wrench after nuts were loose.

I wouldn't be concerned with the sensor, no need to do anything with it. Just removed as a safety measure.

Sounds like you've got it nailed just gotta get the nuts off, at least that's the hardest part.

Anything else I can help with just let me know, always glad to help when I can.


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Thanks man i went to the store today and got that socket wrench it worked way better than what i had. I got them loose in about 30 minutes after i got that thing. Did you take them off or leave them really loose? I've gotten to the plate install now, but am having a hard time finding something that will pry the bottom enough because i don't have what you used. i thing i have the top pretty well seperated but the bottom just wont go so the plate isnt even close to going in. I guess i'll give it another go tommorow.:nooo

 

hey guys if u have a friend to help you its much easyer. i had my buddy hold the ratchet on the top and from the bottom i loosened the nut .. took me 5 min. the bottom nut u get from under the truck on your own. the upper nut if you have a buddy help u just to hold the ratchet on top its very easy !:thumb

 

Was thinking that would work, great advice.


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Just left them loose, didn't even want to attempt to get them back on. Had the same issue. Get the plate in as far as you can first. Then you can wedge another flathead by the bottom bolt so it will miss the plate when you slide it down in place.


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Ahhh spent another 3-4 hours on it today but i've gotten over being angry with it i'm just steady trying.I got it in multiple times but it seems that i cant find a good spot to put the screwdriver it keeps getting in the way of the plate even though i'm putting it just a little to the right of the bottom bolt..top is going in great i just cant get the bottom to hit the bolt and i'm almost certain its just the screwdriver in the way...also i can only get a thin screwdriver in there...i may have to get a cats paw idk... i wish i could find a thin and not wide tool that wouldnt bend to go in there. i may go to the store again tonight..

 

Damn, too bad your not in Utah we'd have that shit done. And yeah about a 12" cats paw works great, you'll prob. need someone up top to slide it down. Unless you get lucky and it falls into place.


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Doing mine on Sunday morning. I haven't done much in the engine bay on my truck, except for the AFE Stage 2 intake. I really appreciate the write up, and also found another tutorial with pics. I have all the tools, and a buddy with more patience than I that is really good turning wrenches and figuring stuff out, so we should be good to go. At what point did you use the tuner to turn off the error code, before you did the blocker plate or after? I'm thinking of doing the blocker plate, running the truck to check for any leaks, then plugging in my tuner to clear it. Would that be right? I use the PPE tuner. I will post again how this goes on Sunday after it's done. If I don't post till after lunch, it didn't go well, cause we're starting at 8am,lol.

 

Had my tuner in already so I don't even know if it threw a code or not. Good luck too, if I can help out just holla.


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Failure. I have been on those nuts for hours, and they will not budge. i have soaked them in WD-40 every couple of hours for 2 days, and have gotten to where i can get a really good pull on a 3/8" ratchet, and no luck. Going to the stubby 3/8" air ratchet now. I know it will fit back there, and am just waiting for a buddy to bring his compressor over. Update forthcoming...



Southpaw

 

Keep at it those nuts are stubborn as f__k.


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Well, I hate getting beaten, but I am beat. Grabbed a 3/8" stubby air ratchet and got in there with it, and even at over 100 psi, those nuts wouldn't move. The worst part is, I don't see a different way from what I have already tried to go at this job differently. Usually I can figure something out, but I'm stumped. Thanks for the input and the write ups on this one guys, they helped a lot. I just don't know where to go from here after over 6 hours of straight sweat. I don't want to pay a shop to do it, but I want it done regardless. It would be a last option, but has anyone ever priced this out or had it done by a shop? Thanks again. I'll go back at it next weekend. Now it's off for more out of town work.


Southpaw

 

Go get some pb blaster and soak the crap out of them. Pb will lube and soak in better than wd40, I soaked mine the night before and right before, and they weren't that bad.

 

X2^^^ I read here that someone paid to have it done and it wasn't cheap. I wouldn't give up, just hit with some pb for a bit.


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Finally getting ready to follow your lead. Since I'm taking the DOT numbers off my truck I will be able to really play with it now.
YOUR INSTRUCTIONS ARE GREAT THANKS FOR SPENDING THE TIME TO RECORD THIS FOR US

 

attempted to do mine again...i got it in finally after a lot of moving it around but now there is a whistle...so i guess its not seated right? i swear it looks so right from the top...its gotta be the bottom i guess....

 

A good way to see where the leak is coming from is a bit of soap and water... spray that bad boy and you'll see exactly where the leaks is from.

 

I finally got it in right today i think...i did that test and it was leaking from the bottom i dont think i had it seated just right but i tightened everything down this time and it seems to be ok....no whistle when driving that i can notice but i did just get an exhaust so im not used to the turbo being so loud...i know its supposed to smoke less when blocked correct? i set my truck to robs 150 tune and it seemed to smoke significantly less than before but it still had a somewhat steady stream of grayish black smoke. not coal black and not a lot but still there. i'm guessing that's normal? or maybe there's still a leak...not sure.