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How To: EGR block off in LMM !!

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238K views 405 replies 117 participants last post by  Eagleye88  
#1 ·
Ok...after much swearing and general deliberation I think I've come up with an easy system to install an EGR block off plate in a 07.5-09 LMM. You will need :

Moving blanket or other thick blanket
2 Stubby flat blade screw drivers..I like the craftsman ones
1 12mm ratcheting wrench
1 14mm stubby open end wrench
Tin snips/hack saw/band saw

First thing to start with is removing the intake elbow from the filter box and the turbo inlet tube and set it aside. Then remove the silencer (large plastic box with the 6.6 on it) it's clamped on the underside to the turbo inlet tube and fastened in the front by a torx fastener. Now, lay the blanket over the air box and the engine bay on the passenger side up to the turbo inlet....this makes working back there ten times better. The EGR pieces you're looking for are located almost at the firewall on the passenger side of the compartment. Remove the small sensor that is screwed into the engine side of the EGR piece and move it out of the way...this will take a 14mm open end wrench. You now have as much access as you're going to get and this is where the 12mm ratcheting wrench will be your best friend. Loosen the 2 12mm nuts holding the EGR mating surfaces together...they face the firewall and are offset from one and other passenger side lower than the driver side. THEY ARE VERY TIGHT !!! You may need to link another box end wrench on your ratcheting wrench to get enough leverage to get them off...be persistent. Now the fun part...with both nuts fully removed wedge one stubby screwdriver at the top of the mating surface and pry like your life depends on it...mine was exceptionally tight. (Make sure the gasket is on the firewall side mating surface) Once you have the parts separated take the other screwdriver and wedge it in on the outside of the driver side bolt sideways. Keep working the two screwdrivers until you can get the sideways screwdriver pushed in almost almost all the way down the blade...trust me it will stay in place. Take the EGR block off plate you purchase from your retailer...I used the one from Meyer performance...and snip the ears off the far side of each plate. It should wind up looking like it's got a hook on either side where the stud will locate it...I trimmed mine like this so you can leave the screwdriver in place while you drop the plate it. Wiggle the plate into position...at this point my plate just about fell into place. Reassemble everything in reverse...don't forget that little sensor you just removed...and you should be EGR deleted. My first attempt at installing the plate took me forever...I just did a buddies truck and it took me 20 minutes start to finish...GOOD LUCK !!!!
:drink
 
#394 ·
Got my EGR blocker plate installed, but I got the dreaded whistle now. I'm hoping it's just that I need to tighten the nuts a little more. I am definitely not looking forward to tackling this project a 2nd time. Anyway, got my EFI/DSP5 switch installed and that is working fine. The Diamond exhaust is going in today.

Bruce
 
#396 ·
New to the forum. I just wanted to say Thanks to Six-Gun-Todd for his write up on the EGR block off plate. I read it about 10 times and dreaded doing it but the time had come. It was a breeze, only took about 30 minutes from start to finish. I had read all the comments and went in fearing the worse and was going to be happy with anything under 2 hours. The bottom bolt took some tugging but popped loose for me. The top bolt I took a med. sized pry bar and layed on top of the metal box and it popped it loose no problem. I then used the pry bar at the top right corner and tapped it one time with a hammer which gave me about an 1/4 inch gap and the plate slide right in for me. Thanks to all of you for posting the good and bad on here for everyone to see. From reading everything I think I may have got lucky on this one. The truck has 57,000 miles on it so I was worried. Thanks again and hope my method may help at least one of ya in the future.
 
#397 ·
I can't understand how you all have managed to do this. I have been fiddling with this for months, got serious about it at least 3 times and today I think I'm officially giving up. I can't even figure out how you all have gotten a wrench back there. I can reach the bottom bolt from the passenger's wheel well, but I can't get to the top bolt. I quit.
 
#398 ·
I used a torque adapter from the Mac Tools truck. 3/8 drive by 12mm 12 pt looks likes this. It made it easy. I was able to use a couple extensions and get the ratchet out in front of the fire wall and get some leverage on it. I was about to give up when I tried this and it worked perfectly.
 

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#399 ·
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this, but I used a ratchet strap and hooked it to the brace in the driver side corner of your engine bay. Then hook the other end onto your wrench, and crank away. Made it so much easier.
 
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#400 ·
Hey everyone just finished doing a blocker plate tonight. Not to bad of a job, nuts broke loose very easy. I was just wondering what the purpose of removing the sensor is for? Because I didn't remove it and didn't have a issue. Also what code are you guys getting after this. Do these code seem right? P0546, P2033. The guy will be getting efi live to block the code but just wondering.
Thank you.


Sent from inside my Duramax
 
#401 ·
anyone ever run into an issue after placing the plate of excessive engine noise over 1000 rpm? perhaps I didn't retighten the nuts all the way? or does the egr have to be shut off through the tuning? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I did mine and when I started it the next day it made a terrible noise when I started to throttle up.
 
#403 ·
Almost comparable to say a bad bearing, screaching, but only at 1000rpm and up. perhaps I didn't have the bolts tight enough. it's not so much a whistle like I've read about earlier this thread, it's more like wtf did I break in my engine bay screach.
 
#404 ·
great write up!!