I basically messed around for an hour trying to get the nuts off, linking wrenches together and all sorts of crap. In the end the only thing that worked was just about standing in the engine bay and "snapping" the bolts loose. Give it everything you got in one quick motion straight up standing over the motor. I never thought I would get them free. You just have to get the bolt to pop once then its butter.

 

I got tires of messing around with wrenches and not getting it. I just got back from sears with a 11.5 inch long 3/8 inch drive flex head ratchet, a 16.5 inch long 1/2 inch drive flex head ratchet, and a universal joint for a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Hopefully I'll get those nuts off tomorrow somehow between all of that and my breaker bar.

 

I finally got my EGR blocked!!! What a PITA. The 11.5 inch long 3/8 flex head ratchet did the trick. Thank you all for your advice. I'm definitely glad that I don't have to do this again.

 

The next one you do will be a breeze.....probably take you 30 minutes tops. :drink

 

This one wouldn't have taken long if those nuts weren't so stubborn.

 

Now I have a high pitch whistle / shreiking noise when I am on the throttle at all. Of course it didn't make any noise sitting at idle this morning when I would have had time to play around with it, it waits until I get on the road on my way to work and starts. I am guessing that it either isn't tight enough or the gasket is pinched at the bottom. The bottom was really tight when I got it in there. I guess I'll be back in there messing with this again tomorrow. Are you guys sure this thing is worth the trouble?

 

HAHAHA.....mine did the same thing first go round. The plate probably seems like it's all the way down in position but it's not......pry the two pieces apart more and you should be good.

 

Its well worth it if you dont want soot going into your motor, the pictures of the intake are worth a thousand words

Not sure why it would make the noise but make sure the gasket is on the firewall side
loosen it back up make sure everything is tucked in there right and tighten those suckers tight.............I'm telling you stuff you all ready know but just making sure

 

Todd, you were right I hope. I got the bottom part to go down a little more, revved it sitting in my drive way and no noise. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, tired of messing with this thing. I'm off to check on my ponds and maybe do a little fishing, so I'll see how it does on this little trip.

 

All looks well, finally!!

 

THe Duramax uses coolant to cool the exhaust before going in the air intake. This raises coolant temps. Not to mention, it degrades the incoming air for a cooler, but less effective ignition burn. EGR block-off translayes to more power, less heat, better fuel mileage.

 

good job!...

 

Well, it's whistling a little again. I'm working days this week and won't have time to play around with it until Friday morning. Will it hurt anything to drive with a small leak?

 

Shouldn't.....be mindful though of stopping anywhere to long....raw exhaust being caught against the firewall might seep into the passenger compartment over time.

 

I think I finally got this thing fully in yesterday. I couldn't wait until Friday. The bottom part of the flange on mine just didn't want to separate. I finally pried it from beneath enough and the plate fell in further.
Now I am paranoid every time I take off and start to hear a little whistle, but it's just my turbo spooling up so far.

 

yeah im new too and wondering the same ? whats to gain by doing this, is it worth the time?

 

Over time soot builds up in the intake plumbing and chokes off flow......after only 3000 miles mine looked pretty bad.

 

Just finnished putting mine in about an hour ago. It took me about three hours and every thing was still hot so it made it even harder but overall it really wasn't that bad. I also used a 3/8 drive flex head ratchet about 12" long and a shallow socket to break the nuts loose then a stubby wrench to finish. For the Bottom bolt I went from the wheel well. To seperate the flanges first I tried a pry bar and that got it a little bit but it wasn't enough so I used a tire iron to pry them apart and the blocker fell right into place. Now I am trying to decide what to do next but I think I am running out off cheap tricks so the next mod might take a while.

 

seen some pictures of the build-up and it looks pretty nasty. mine has 60 k on it and im gonna do this mod, but i was wondering is there a way to clean the whole system. ive heard bg products is a good way but also read about using water while engine is running to break it loose??? does that sound right. Ive done this on gas burners to clean piston tops and valves but not sure about on a diesel. what to do?

 

Water methanol injection worked for me :rockin

 

is that a kit, or an add on or something? obviously i cant put water in the fuel tank... so is this an inexpensive fix?

 

Not really.....I was referring to a water methanol injection system used primarily for lowering EGTs. As a byproduct though it cleans the inlet piping quite well......but $500 and up for the kit isn't inexpensive.

Honestly....your best bet is removal of the upper intake pipe and a little elbow grease and carb cleaner.

 

any one have pics of the egr blocker plate after its installed i was looking at mine and it seems like ther is a piece of metal already in there. or is the gasket just hard.

 

It's a multi-layer metal gasket so yes you probably just caught a glimpse of the gasket. I don't think anyone has a good pic of the EGR plate......it's just to hard to get a camera back by the firewall to get the picture.

 

i am going to do mine tommorow if the weather holds out. this thread will really help

 

I tried to get some pictures with little luck thanks to the terrible location of the uppipe and EGR.

 

wel, i tried to do the egr plate today and for the life of me, i could not get those damn nut loose, i tried for probably 45 minutes and could not break them loose! i was using a 7-8 inch gearwrench ratchet wrench and just couldnt do it. i never tried the bottom nut bc i couldnt get the rea one loose. i was so pi$$ed and still am. i am going to call jeff dean tommorow to see if he has ne pointers or how much to do it.

 

i tried connecting 2 wrenches and there wasnt enough room to do it.

 

I CALLED MY FRIEND HE IS A GREAT MECH 6'5 265lbs works out daily took him about 15 min wanted to give him 50.00 would'nt take it!

 

My buddy was a lot smaller and just laid uo there. He had done a couple. Cost a whole beer.:drink

 

nice job ..man

 

Thanks.....after my frustration the first time through I thought this would help everyone steer clear of my pitfalls. Glad this keeps helping everyone :drink

 

Anyone have pics of what it should look like and where are the 2 egr cooler screws?? sorry dumb question but im sure someone else wants to know and dosen't want to ask.

 

Actually I have the EGR removed now so I can get some "off the truck" pics of the whole arrangement if you like. I'll see if I can get something posted in a little while.

 

ive read how to do this 100 times and Im still going out looking in my engine bay at the egr:blowup thinking.. this is going to be INSANE. Im gonna do it anyway, while im at it im gonna install my mbrp downpipe and do the pcv reroute.. 10000 miles to late but better late thenneve.