Well, Today is the big day, I have been dreading doing this mod long enough. It's going to be near 60 today so no reason not to get out and enjoy this day crawling around the truck. I sure hope this goes easier for me than it has for some of y'all!

 

lol, good luck! mine is still sitting in the center console!

 

The center console is a good place for that pos!!! I tried and failed miserably! I broke more than I fixed!!!!!!! Ended up getting drunk instead. Tranny is leaking fluid, too.

 

The center console is a good place for that pos!!! I tried and failed miserably! I broke more than I fixed!!!!!!! Ended up getting drunk instead. Tranny is leaking fluid, too.

your tranny started leaking fluid frm doing the block off plate???? jk, that sucks

 

i just did mine on the first attempt, took me about an hour. i did not have a hard time taking of the nuts, i just used a open ended 12mm wrench, i couldnt with my left hand and as soon as i tryed it with my right hand they popped loose. then i just pryed it open and then sniped the ears of the plate and it almost fell in place by itself i just wiggeled it in a bit, and then just put everything back.

 

i forgot to mention i also loosend and set aside the transmission dipstick, this really helped me out. just took a deepsocket 13mm and then just pull it out, i didnt take it out the truck just set it to the side.

 

I don't believe you.

 

LOL.......

 

i might try this again tommorow

 

well i got it in, i cut the tabs and did a little filing but the damn thing has a whistle now! i guess i have to pull it back apart and do it again. i am about to give up!

 

The whistle could just be that the nuts aren't tight enough..... zacks had a whistle to it after we were done and we tightened the nuts more and it went away.... either that or the plate isn't quite in all the way

 

i got pi$$ed and pulled it back out for the time being!

 

No need to modify my plate and it installed in under 45 minutes. The tab on the plate points up on mine with no leaks or whistle.

The key to getting the plate in is to remove the inner fender on the passenger side and use a 3-4' pry bar on the up pipe "Y" going to the EGR and use the firewall to hold the pry bar while installing the plate. Went in with just a little wiggle.

Good Luck to You!

 

That is exactly how i finally got it in.

 

:nice: plan on trying to do this myself over the weekend on my LMM any other tips? Would it be a good idea to do the down pipe at the same time?

Anyone wanna come over for beer and just give pointers too :rockin:drink

 

Anyone wanna come over for beer and just give pointers too :rockin:drink

There are two bolts that hold the dipstick tube in, the bolts are on the bellhousing.. they're hard to see... but you need to get them loose.

sand all the paint off the DP where it mates with the turbo, it'll slide right in if you do.

cutting out the heatshield is a bitch... tinsnips won't get you all the way there.. a hacksaw blade will help, with a nice handle..

there are 3 (or 4) 10mm bolts that hold the heatshield to the stock downpipe.. it helped me to remove them, so I could get the heatshield off.

I had luck with putting the dipstick tube back in first, THEN putting the new DP in.

 

I'd do the downpipe as well if you are already in there. Grab a few beers and giver!

 

If you have an air die grinder use it. that is the cats ass for cutting the heat shield takes no time at all just be careful on what you are doing

 

Yup, or an air reciprocating saw..

 

i don't know if this has been posted yet but gettin the nuts off for me was a piece of cake. everything was warm to the touch and put on my 4" ratcheting wrench and pried and pried nothing.. got pissed off and grabbed a 14" or so pry bar and wedged it in there and gave a little pressure and voila it came undone, same with the bottom one. i also tweaked my tranny filler tube around to get to the bottom one. my biggest problem now is to stop the whistling. back at er in the morning. can the inner fender well be removed with flares on??

 

Otay this is off the to do list finally. To sum it all up....I dont think it is as bad as some of you guys made it up to be. JMO! What I found to work better for me was the OP instructions and instead of the 2 small screw drivers I had a 12" and 6" pry bar and bent/pushed back with that. Didn't even have to cut the blocker. :rockin Will say it was easier if you unbolt the tranny dip stick to give you just a little more room to get leverage on the wrench. Put the wrench on the nut and cranked it down then with the pry bar under it work it and the she popped free. Took a few hours just cause of the brain storming and HTF am I gonna get there thoughts but other than that, Id do it again. NO TIME SOON :rof

 

I get a wistle at light throttle but it just sounds like the turbo spooling to me. At full throttle no wistle I can hear.

 

Great Post. One of my next mods...

 

So there is no way to clean the soot out of the engine except taking it all apart?

I was told a lot of the build up will burn off over time, as long you aren't accumulating new soot, is this correct? Also, that an engine flush could help reduce the amount?

After reading the horror stories for getting to the plate and removing and installing I called my local diesel shop and they said it would be 130$ to do the egr block. Think I may opt for the easy route.
I found this thread to be very informative, thanks for the write up and links.

RD

 

Ok just wanted to show everyone the tool I used. Extendable 3/8 breaker bar. Cost me $20 but had the nuts loose in about 3 min when I found the best place to fit it in. Just waiting for the pipe to cool down so I can finish because I just drove to town.

 

so i pretty much got my @$$ kicked.. got the nuts loosen and got it to spread apart but could not get the passenger side of the plate to go in for nothing.. i cut the ears off and everthing that was posted on here ha.. got ticked so put it back together.. what i do wrong?

 

where is the egr sensor located where you use a 14mm on?

 

Page 8 post #75 has a pic of the sensor but not that good of a pic for the location. I did not move anything out of the way to do this but I also have a LLY so it might be different.

 

lmm is alot harder!!!!!!!!! why cant i get the dang blocker plate in??? goin in the right way?? the tit points towards the driver side.. that correct?

 

well i'm about to dive into this this week. i'd like to take the whole intake assembly off and clean it while i'm doing the PCV reroute and blocker plate install. will taking the whole intake off make it easier to install the blocker plate? and how difficult is it to take off the whole intake?

 

well I installed my 5" mbrp exhaust and EGR block off plate It was fairly easy Maybe cause the truck only has 18,000 miles on it.. put about 2000 miles on it and noticed a a small drip of oil near the bell housing and motor meet. i sprayed it with brake clean wiped clean drove it and it came back.. took down to the car wash pressure washed it drove home put stock exhaust back on took out blocker plate.. Took it into the dealership.. They said they are unable to find the oil leak.. I put roughly 500 miles on it since then and no sign of oil leak.. Was wondering if the block off plate had something to do with it? Maybe i didnt get it tight enough, I do know if you dont get the plate in all the way it makes a loud ass noise when the motor is running... Any ideas?????

 

maybe a condinsation/soot mix. just a idea

 

Yeah i never thought about that thanks man..

 

It took me an hour and a half to do it. Getting the thing to separate to get the plate in was a world class bear. But i got it in finally, everything tightened down, then road test time.... I have the whistle, so I am going to tighten the nuts down again tomorrow....

 

Hi all, new on here. I wish I saw all this info a few years ago. Last November my check engine light came on at appx. 110k miles. Brought it to my mechanic and he says it's the egr and I need to take it to the dealer. So the dealer says that egr and cooler are all blocked up. They fixed it and it cost me $2,000 GrrRRrr