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How To: EGR block off in LMM !!

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238K views 405 replies 117 participants last post by  Eagleye88  
#1 ·
Ok...after much swearing and general deliberation I think I've come up with an easy system to install an EGR block off plate in a 07.5-09 LMM. You will need :

Moving blanket or other thick blanket
2 Stubby flat blade screw drivers..I like the craftsman ones
1 12mm ratcheting wrench
1 14mm stubby open end wrench
Tin snips/hack saw/band saw

First thing to start with is removing the intake elbow from the filter box and the turbo inlet tube and set it aside. Then remove the silencer (large plastic box with the 6.6 on it) it's clamped on the underside to the turbo inlet tube and fastened in the front by a torx fastener. Now, lay the blanket over the air box and the engine bay on the passenger side up to the turbo inlet....this makes working back there ten times better. The EGR pieces you're looking for are located almost at the firewall on the passenger side of the compartment. Remove the small sensor that is screwed into the engine side of the EGR piece and move it out of the way...this will take a 14mm open end wrench. You now have as much access as you're going to get and this is where the 12mm ratcheting wrench will be your best friend. Loosen the 2 12mm nuts holding the EGR mating surfaces together...they face the firewall and are offset from one and other passenger side lower than the driver side. THEY ARE VERY TIGHT !!! You may need to link another box end wrench on your ratcheting wrench to get enough leverage to get them off...be persistent. Now the fun part...with both nuts fully removed wedge one stubby screwdriver at the top of the mating surface and pry like your life depends on it...mine was exceptionally tight. (Make sure the gasket is on the firewall side mating surface) Once you have the parts separated take the other screwdriver and wedge it in on the outside of the driver side bolt sideways. Keep working the two screwdrivers until you can get the sideways screwdriver pushed in almost almost all the way down the blade...trust me it will stay in place. Take the EGR block off plate you purchase from your retailer...I used the one from Meyer performance...and snip the ears off the far side of each plate. It should wind up looking like it's got a hook on either side where the stud will locate it...I trimmed mine like this so you can leave the screwdriver in place while you drop the plate it. Wiggle the plate into position...at this point my plate just about fell into place. Reassemble everything in reverse...don't forget that little sensor you just removed...and you should be EGR deleted. My first attempt at installing the plate took me forever...I just did a buddies truck and it took me 20 minutes start to finish...GOOD LUCK !!!!
:drink
 
#190 ·
hey man good post, i've been trying ot get mine in and seem to be running into a problem where the bottom of the exhaust assembly will no pry away from the egr cooler so the bottom of my plate won't drop in. Trimmed some of the plate but didnt wanna go nuts on it. any suggestions?
 
#192 ·
Holy crap I can't wait to do this... just gotta get the title in and registration done so I can get my NC inspection. Ordering the part tonight... with 165k miles on my truck... is there any hope that once this is blocked that it will clean itself out with some treatment?
 
#193 ·
Got mine installed today. What a pain in the A__. I think I cussed everyone on here who said it could be done in 20 min or so as I spent twice that time looking for dropped wrenches. Not that it is done, I will take it back. The pictures a few pages back helped, but if you could add a pointer to the area you are talking about in some, it may help others. Easy to see now, but was a little confusing before. I would definately say to remove lower bolt from the fenderwell. I also found that if you use a deep well socket, there is more room by the firewall, near the middle of the motor. And when you put it back together, make sure you really tighten the bolts. I didn't tighten them enough, and it whistled like mad when the turbo spooled up. Could not hear it at idle or reving it up in park. ALso I did not have a code when was not bolted tight, but after tightening it up, instantly had a code.
 
#195 ·
OK, its whistling again, my engine light is on, and there definately seems to be a power loss. Could the power loss be from the code? Its not much, but noticable. I think I may take the plate back off until I get my programmer.
 
#196 ·
Took the plate back off, now code is gone and power is back. And that stupid plate is just as hard the second time. Worst part is getting the pipe pryed back from the lower bolt. Maybe I misread, but the gasket does go on the firewall side of the blocker plate right? Oh well, will leave it off until I get the programmer.
 
#198 ·
I just got my EGR blocker plate in, took a hour. I got the passenger side nut loose in a couple minutes with a ordinary 12mm wrench, I started with that side because i figured it would be the hardest, well it wasnt. Took about ten minutes to get the drivers side nut loose. The hardest part was getting the plate to slide in properly. the top part slid in good but the bottom was tight. After it was all said and done I took it for a short test drive and no whistle except for the turbo so I am hoping it stays that way.
 
#201 ·
Took my truck for another drive today and it seems to have a whistle now...only when I really push the throttle hard. I took it up to 26psi of boost and it really whistled. I must not have the plate in all the way.anyone that had this problem, what was your solution?
 
#202 · (Edited)
I took my plate out today to see if i could get it in better to stop the whistle. I only had it in for 20 miles and it already had a fair amount of soot on it. After I got it back in I went for a short drive and it seems to be good. I also put a blocker plate in my LLY tonight. It took me a whole ten minutes! haha. So much easier to do then the LMM.
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-You can tell it wasnt all the way in at the bottom.

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-Alot of soot blocked in 20 miles

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- you can see at the very bottom where the soot was leaking through.

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- tight spot, you can see the top drivers side bolt.

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- this is the sensor you should take out with the 14mm. I bent mine a bit then i took it out. never hurt it though

Image


-LLY egr blocked. So much room to work! And it is about half the size as the LMMs
 
#205 ·
I did my plate last Saturday and I still have a whistle at around 12psi of boost during a hard acclereation. I have checked the tightness of those damn bolts several times. And, they are TIGHT.... What gives? The gasket is flat and the plate is all the way in? Am I just not being patient enough in regards to waiting on it to soot closed? Once it's warm, it stops whistling. Thanks for any help guys.
 
#212 ·
BUMP. Now it has been two weeks that the plate is in and I am starting to wonder about my work. I also did the downpipe at the same time. I didn't put any grease or lube or...... anything for that matter on either one of these two. Should I have? It's getting annoying because I can't mash on it or it starts whistling like hell.
 
#206 ·
Late to the block party... Here's my situation. My 2008 has 175,000 miles on it. I've had the Edge race tuner and 5" exhaust on it for the last 100,000. My truck keeps going into "Engine Power Is Reduced" My mass air flow is lower than normal too.
I'm finally going to install the EGR plate. Do I have to disassemble and clean out the entire EGR or can I install the plate and truck on?
 
#207 ·
If dissasembling and cleaining, you are shure about the internal level of soot.
But what I would do is install de EGR blocker plate and see what happens.
Dissaembling the whole EGR system can always be done later.
 
#208 ·
What a great thread! Thanks for the advice wodan. Has anyone on here had the same problem as me? Truck going into Engine Power Is Reduced mode? It idols/runs fine without going into limp mode. If I go over 70MPH it's ok too. It only goes into Engine Power Is Reduced/limp mode if I drive around the city at lower rpms or I come off the peddle before a red light.
 
#209 ·
I myself put the EGR blocker plate in my LMM: What a PITA it was, but after 2 hours fiddling, swaering .... it is in place... Now hoping it won't leak.
 
#214 ·
Any advice is good for me. Thanks. I guess I am going to have to take it back out and see if I can see something. Eventually, I want to just delete the whole system, but for now I was hoping this would be a simple alternative. Oh well...... The joys of modding with little to no experience. Thanks again.
 
#215 · (Edited)
Well it leaked, whining sound as high as it could get ;)
Flipped the plate over and after some grinding and making things FIT,
it now works as it should...

Image

The above picture is wrong, it should be placed flipped, the side you see now is the one that should be facing you...
I found that out the hard way :(

(It is simple: If placing the d*mn thing is easy, it is placed wrong :D)
The tip should be vertical when in place and be sticking out on the top.
 
#220 ·
how will u no if u have a boost leak ???from the plate
 
#221 · (Edited)
how will u know if u have a boost leak ???from the plate
It whistles very loud, you will notice it ;)

i don't see a sensor for the EGR, plus how the hell do these bolts come off
There are two sensors plugged into the cooler for the exhaust gases, the one closest to the firewall should be removed to be safe not breaking it.
The bolts are VERY tight to say the least. It is a PITA to get them loose. It took me several hours and a lot of ###$$### to get them loose.
Just be persistent.
 
#222 ·
I know this is beat into the ground, but have you guys found that any one particular plate fits better than the other. I have looked around and a few look to be cut a little different. And those of you who have done this know that that little bit can make a difference. Just wondering if one plate is more successful than the other.