Where did you get a blocker cap from? All the people in these threads are using a blocker plate. Its about 1/16th of an inch.. Or at least that's what the size of mine looked like. I got it from Alligator Performance. The job already difficult enough being 1/16 thick but any thicker than you just asking for trouble...

 

X2


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I ordered it from Creatures of the Night Performance. they recommended the cap over the plate.

 

First ive heard ever. Id like for bobo or whoever he is to chime in and tell us all why. Some say his tunes are good so im curious to see the logic behind the cap. From his previous post it will be a book but im ready to read.


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So do you think there is any possible way I will get it to fit..?

 

Neverheard of it but the small plate is a pita.


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Well. EGR 1, me 0. After 5 hours, putting the plate in, ad taking it back out 6 times, I can't get it to stop whistling. I noticed laying across the top of the motor, drivers side to the passengers side, and using a 1/4" ratchet with a 6 pt 12mm socket gets both nuts off under about 3-5 minutes. I just can't seem to get the bottom of the plate to slide in. I can see the soot on the plate, and also see where the plate isnt covering the entire cooler opening. It's just a pain in my butt lol. I'll be hitting it again in the morning. My plate is kinda bent now, since it apparently wasn't all the way in on bottom when I tightened it. I'll post a pic of my plate to see if I have it trimmed right.


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Here's my plate

http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q175/jwheatley20/?action=view&current=1325985339.jpg

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Well i went as far as to remove the passenger fender well and tire to get access to one of the bolts. It actually gave me a lot of room to get in there. Since the tab looks broken off your plate, I would grind it down to be even with the plate. The first try installing the plate resulted in whistling. Then i bent he tabback and re-tightened and i was whistle free!

 

Yea I removed the fender well, and just turned my steering wheel to the left. That allowed me to lean back against the tire and catch my breath sometimes. Haha. I used a pry bar on the Y pipe which did allow the plate to freely drop in. I think I need to trim my tabs just a little more. It's hanging up on the bottom somewhere. I even drove it to try and heat it up to see if it would seal itself. No luck :/


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This is just one of the good reasons I have in my sig "MY Opinion".
I finally got mine done only after all the BS I received from my opinion, would I ever do it again HELL NO. And I paid a shop to do the block when they installed the DE DP and DE quiet zone front pipe.

A majority of the people have trouble like jwheatley20 does, there are people that have over 200k-300k + with the egr still functioning.
Do the PCV re-route and call it good. NOT having the oil vapors re-circulating and gumming everything up, the egr will NOT have the oily sooty build-up and you would have less or NO egr issues.

No mpg or power gains at all, so if your expecting that you will be very disappointed.
The ONLY gain you will see with the block is it takes longer for the engine to warm up.
And thats it, if you can really call that a gain especially in cold climates.
What use to take about 5 min in 40 degree temps for the engine to hit 100 degrees now takes 10-12 min. The only ones that will gain out of this is the oil companies.

 

Well.... Success! I just tried it again this morning. I was determined to get it done, so I went out, an it went into place. I tapped it with a small stubby flathead to knock the bottom in place, and tightened it up. No whistles, whining or exhaust blowing out. Took all of 30 minutes. It was definitely a pain in the rear, lost of cuts and bruises on my hands and arms. I don't think it's worth it either. But now that it's done, I think it is. Next is the downpipe, and PCV reroute. In just not ready to do it.

So to everyone that is still struggling with this block plate, just trim the tabs off like in the pics on page 8 I believe, use a spud wrench or pry bar to pry the Y pipe back from the block, and slide the plate in. A 1/4" ratchet worked perfect for me. I was able to get it loose, and tight with no problems. Plenty of room once you take the black box off the top of the motor and reach behind with you right hand. So good luck.


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Well.... Success! I just tried it again this morning. I was determined to get it done, so I went out, an it went into place. I tapped it with a small stubby flathead to knock the bottom in place, and tightened it up. No whistles, whining or exhaust blowing out. Took all of 30 minutes. It was definitely a pain in the rear, lost of cuts and bruises on my hands and arms. I don't think it's worth it either. But now that it's done, I think it is. Next is the downpipe, and PCV reroute. In just not ready to do it.

So to everyone that is still struggling with this block plate, just trim the tabs off like in the pics on page 8 I believe, use a spud wrench or pry bar to pry the Y pipe back from the block, and slide the plate in. A 1/4" ratchet worked perfect for me. I was able to get it loose, and tight with no problems. Plenty of room once you take the black box off the top of the motor and reach behind with you right hand. So good luck.
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I know you are now happy, but you really should have done the DP when you was doing the block plate. Now you can add another 3-4 hrs of frustration just to do the DP. When you could have easily gotton to the egr to install the plate with the stock DP removed.

To be real honest with you do the PCV re-route soon it takes a whopping 15-20 min to install. Rest yourself for a while on doing the DP.

Another honest suggestion unless your having DP issues leave the stock one in. You will NOT see much improvements other than the EGT's will drop a just little quicker when you let off the throttle. NO cooler egt's in general driving.

Trust me I did the block, DE DP, DE quiet zone front pipe Oct 2, 2011 the only noticeable gain was the egts dropped very little quicker. The egts running down the highway same drive, speed, rpms the egt's was identical before (was 4" catback system)and after DP back.
It was not worth the time and effort and $$$$ for such LITTLE gains. If anyone says different they are pushing the BS meter.

Hey, I'm just advising you to save your $$$ and anguish for not much worth in gains for the time and $$$ spent.
When others are suggesting you to spend your not their $$$ and labor because its the greatest. BS.

If you want to do this then have at it, at least you won't be able to say someone did not give you a heads up.

 

Go for the PCV reroute. a lot easier to do than the blocker plate. less cuts and bruises too.

 

I wonder if this writeup would have helped when I did mine. I know the blanket would have been a good idea. I spent near 4 hours laying across my engine, and had a bruised chest that hurt for a few days. I just couldn't get the 2 pieces pryed far enough apart to slip the block plate in. Once I finally got it it far enough apart, it slipped in and I had everything back together in mere minutes.

 

I appreciate the heads up DRC. I already have the DP. I've had it for a month now. My biggest fear on the DP is I honestly have no clue where to start with that heat shield. But like you said, I plan to rest a week or so before I try. Either that or install my gauges I have laying here. I have parts laying around, and I just install one when I get bored. I still have the FPRV shim kit to install. I was informed of where it was and everything. I just gotta do it now. I will order the PCV reroute this week so I will have something else to do. What all does that entail? I did a search and couldn't find a How To. Is the Alligator kit good? I'm sure it's the same one ATP sales. I'll just order it from Dustin. Everything so far has come from him. No need to stop now.


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blocked mine today first attempt the bolts were tight but i just used a 1/4 ratchet and a pry bar to break them free. couldn't get the plate in all the way fought for two and a half hours had a bad whistle my one year old thought the whistle was funny. tried again took 35 minutes. i used a craftsman ratchet the one that lets a bolt go right through it so it isn't much bigger than a closed end wrench. then used a pry bar to put the extra force to break the bolts. then used the bar to open the top i mean i pushed on it then took a hammer to the pry bar to really force it open then i took the fender well off and pried the bottom open i wedged a block between the bar and the firewall to hold the bottom open i pried right by the bottom bolt ( already trimmed the ears off the plate) now it was open enough that the plate fell in place. the first time was a pita but the second was so easy it was scary

 

Thanks for the writeup, parts are on the way. I've got lots to do to accomplish what's already in my sig. Hopefully, I want have to strike a line thru any of what's listed. I already scratched the downpipe.

 

Yup....worked on the EGR blocker for a total of eight hours.....The wife came out and litterally slid it into place in less than one second....FML.....I was prying on the bottom of the pipe with a bar tho....

 

Pry bar and help is the best way to do it. I fought for hours also, and once wife helped it was pretty quick

 

Just one more example that a woman is good for more than just one thing.

 

wish me luck ill be trying this tomarrow!

 

No luck, just lots of patience

 

not as bad as i thought it would be. took me just over a hr! :thumb

i drove the truck with the 5 tunes and man its a night and day diff! :neener

 

I just did some work on my truck replacing the tranny cooler lines with the ones from Alligator Performance. In the process I had to remove the intercooler pipe from the passenger side of the intercooler and did not get the clip that holds it to the intercooler installed all the way around into the groove. I took the truck for a test drive and blew that pipe off the intercooler! What completely took me by surprise was the amount of oily mess that blew out all over around there.

Is this caused by the PCV system and/or the EGR system? When do both of these sytems put their crap back into the intake air-before or after the intercooler? I guess I wonder why such a nasty mess and what can I get rid of to fix that?

I would like to add a PCV reroute and an EGR block plate but am worried about the truck passing emissions every year in Colorado. I don't want to try to put it back to stock to pass emissions and I also don't want to drive around with the check engine light on all the time. I can install the finger stick but then I am still left with the question of passing emissions. I also could (someday-money is very tight) install a tuner to block the codes but I have no idea how that affects my ability to pass emissions as well.

Anyone with any ideas I am open for those or a link to a better thread if I am in the wrong spot. Thanks in advance!

 

I can tell you that the PCV re-route is a very easy install and could be changed out quickly for emission purposes. If its needed to pass emissions. That i am not sure of.
Hopefully some one else can shed some more light on this for you.

 

Thanks for the reply.

The PCV reroute looks easy enough and I think if that is needed for an emissions test I could fix it. I also think that it may look inconspicuous enough to pass without changing it back. There are already a lot of hoses under the hood of these trucks.

The EGR block and its corresponding codes would be what I would worry about more.

I imagine that if I do enough reading and asking questions in the forum I will eventually find a good answer to my problem.

 

The factory PCV is the cause of the oily mess, the oil vapors suck in from the valve covers directly into the intake. The egr can and will get all screwed up from the oily vapors burning up in the exhaust and causes a oily sooty buildup. If you do the pcv reroute this will help to keep that from happening. I'm not sure in your state how the fingerstick or blocking the egr would affect your emissions.
By all means I would consider doing the pcv reroute and put a stop to the oily mess.

 

Thank you! The PCV reroute is the easiest and cheapest fix, and if I need to put it back to stock to pass emissions that is also very easy. The EGR concerns me because of some of the pictures on this website I have seen of soot buildup in the intake. Who wants that crap?! I am not sure what that does for the environment/government.

 

There will always be a soot build-up on the egr, but what makes things worse like you've seen in some pictures.
The pcv was still functioning which that creates a oily sooty thick buildup which burns on, and will continue to just keep building up.
Doing the pcv reroute will stop the oily buildup, you'll still have soot but it's a thin layer, not oily and thick.
From what people say the egr on your classic is pretty easy to block, it's the 07.5 and newer that is a real PITA to get to.