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Some more...

 

And the final finished product...

Couple things to mention, when disconnecting the Alt. cable make sure you wrap it to keep it from sparking. Also the same with the intake heater grid cable. All cables I wrapped very well with electrical tape and them zip tied all out of the way to make sure they would not touch anything hot. This took me about 4 hours over a 2 day period. Tools I used where just basic handtools. Off the top of my head, large screwdriver, needle nose pliers for removing the clamps on the rubber hoses, 11mm wrench and deep socket, 12mm wrench and socket, 9/16ths or 14mm wrench, socket and deep socket, 15mm socket, 17mm socket and wrench. A swivel head extention makes it easy to tighten down things, but not necessary. I had to fill about 1 gallon or so of Dexcool back into the system after it spilled from disconnecting the cooler. There are a couple more mounting tabs connected to the tube that I did not get a picture of, but only go to one spot, so you can't miss it. I had to buy 2' 5/8" heater hose, (2) worm gear style clamps for the hose, (2) 3/8"x1.5" SS bolts/nuts/washers for the riser cap, (2) M10, 1.50 threaded, 20mm long bolt, (1) M10, 1.50 threaded, 30mm long bolt with nuts and washers, and one new riser to EGR cooler gasket (not a have to if your original one is good shape).

Final thoughts/outcome so far: Haven't noticed truck taking longer to warm up at all, seems to confirm to me the Grid Heater is an emission thing in colder weather. Turbo seems to whistle louder? EGT's might be a little bit lower, hard to tell, haven't really done any towing since the delete. MPG's seem to have gone up almost 1mpg. 15.3mpg average before, now about 16.2mpg. Power seems to come on smoother. Not hard to do and again, want to thank Tyler at MeyerPerformance and Rick from ProFab for getting me the goods to the do the install! Chris

 

Great write up Chris, this will be very helpful to many.

 

Thanks, I just looked at all the questions I asked you:help and then thought about how I could maybe help someone else out with similar questions. Again, thanks for the help! :thumb Chris

 

Thanks Chris....how long did it take you to do ?

 

Took me about an hour to get everything loose and ready to take out. Did that on a Friday evening. About another 2 hours to get it out and new pipe in and bolted up. Another hour to put the cap on, bolt it up, put the heater hose on and clamped down. Then filled the reservoir up with Dexcool. About 4 hours, maybe a little longer, all by myself. I had already gotten the 2 12mm bolts loose before when I did the blocker plate, so it was simple to get loose again. Plus, I had be soaking about every nut/bolt I was going to be taking off with PBlaster for the last week, really made things come apart easy! I'd recommend that for sure, I could actually get those 2 nuts sprayed where the blocker goes, so that might have helped. Not bad or hard to do at all. I'm a dentist and could do it!:rof:rofl Chris

 

why didn't you use an up-pipe instead of the cap in order to get some more gains??

 

I'm going to do an SDP twin setup, I'll bite the bullet then and do the up-pipes and driver side manifold from ProFab, until then, the cap with the bracing should be fine for what I do with my truck. It's driving, towing my 5ver exactly like I wanted it to from the beginning. Plus I like wrenching around, gives me something to do later on next spring.:thumb

Very nice write up. I think I may have to place an order soon.!!! Thanks!! Wow a dentist with some mechanical ability. We could use you here in Green Bay. I own my own dental lab and I wonder how some of these guys get to work everyday??

Yeah, it's quite funny, I go to continuing education courses, I pull up in a large, loud, diesel. Every other dentist shows up in a BMW, Mercedes, Escalades, etc. 99% of them probably couldn't change a tire!:rofl I do 99% of the work on my vehicles! Chris

 

Very nice write up. I think I may have to place an order soon.!!! Thanks!! Wow a dentist with some mechanical ability. We could use you here in Green Bay. I own my own dental lab and I wonder how some of these guys get to work everyday??

 

awesome! thanks man

 

Any check engine light from this install? or is it already blocked?

 

Nick had already blocked all EGR codes, grid heater codes and the air valve codes, so when I did this it was already setup. If it did have any codes, I would have just used my V2 and flashed to stop reporting those codes. As far as I know, you have to have EFIlive to turn off every code that would be reported, no other tuner can do all of this. Chris

 

Subscribed. Nice write-up. I will be doing this soon, and Thank you.

 

I'll be deleting mine soon, great write up

 

Very Nice write up. Can I use it?

 

Thanks for the good write up.

 

Nice write up

Sent from my DROIDX

 

been looking for something like this, thanks

 

Thank you for taking time to do this it's gonna help alot of people out

 

subs doing this next weekend

 

Many thanks to the OP!! Ill be using it to do mine

 

Very nice write up,,, this will help out alot of us with LMM's

 

So how do use guys in Calif. get away with doing this? ( I know, pay the man $200 and look the other way)

 

Sub'd thanks for the guidance. :beer:

 

what did you do with the wiring that is no longer used?

 

Bookmarked this . . . the details & pics are excellent. :thumb

 

cool, cool, my profab egr delete is in the garage waiting to go on... will be using this
thanks

 

sub'd