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How To: Remove/Replace Power Steering Pump

107K views 38 replies 15 participants last post by  Tomhp  
#1 · (Edited)
These pics are with an LB7/LLY/LBZ.
GM part #15909827 (about $150 at this writing)

Remove the inner fender liner on the driver's side for access. Loosen clamps on the hot side CAC pipe couplers and remove. Remove drive belt from the PS pump.

You'll need a puller to remove the pulley AND reinstall it on the new pump. Most auto parts stores will either loan or rent the puller.

There are 5 bolts holding the pump on; 3 in the front (item 5 below, 1st pic), and 2 bolts (item 9) on the back (hence the liner removal).

Remove the two low pressure return hoses (items 1&9-2nd pic). Leave the one (item 7-2nd pic) High Pressure line going to the hydro-boost attached to the PS pump, remove other end from the HB unit.

With the pump off, Remove the mount (item 4-1st pic) on the front of the pump (3 bolts, item 7-1st pic) and xfer to new pump.

When you go to install the new pump, start the threads on that one HP line, leaving it loose, and snake it thru to the HB unit as you drop the PS pump back in. (It’s almost impossible to get those threads started with the pump installed....much easier to start the threads with the pump out).

Be careful with the ends of that HP line, as it seals with an O-ring (item 3) that is not available except with a new HP line.

When you go to bolt up, you're 1st thought will be to start with the top bolt in the front (item 5) and let it hang.
Wrong, the other bolts won't line up to start the threads. Start with the middle/2nd bolt hole as a pivot point, then install the top and bottom 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Move to the rear and install those 2 smaller bolts. Tighten HP line fitting that you left loose at the pump, install/tighten end at HB unit.

Press pulley back on, hang drive belt back, fill reservoir with fluid, no bleed/priming needed.

Since you are going to have all of that pulled apart, I HIGHLY suggest you install a PS fluid cooler to the mix. <This will save so much future torment and $$s lost, prolonging life of the pump, HB, and the two HP lines that seem to chronically leak.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/d...m.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/205850-how-add-power-steering-fluid-cooler.html
With this ^addition, the system will work fine with off-the-shelf dino PS fluid.

Not a fan of cheap remans and certainly nothing by Cardone.
Hate doing it twice, or thrice.
OE new part is 15909827...new has no core charge....not that much $$ difference vs a Reman w/core charge.




 
#2 ·
Sub'd for future reference (I will need it sooner or later)
 
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#3 ·
Even though I did this recently, subbed to have it in the archive. I also added the GM PS cooler, looking forward to seeing the fluid after a year of use.
 
#4 ·
Note-- It takes a special puller to remove and install the power steering pump drive pully-!!
 
#6 ·
With performing the above procedure, was it nesc to remove the upper fan shroud? OR is there enough room to pull the pulley
 
#7 · (Edited)
There's enough room.
I will say tho.....getting those 3 front bolts back on does it's damage on the hands' skin.
But it's much lessened if you don't have to go thru the trials I did, and start with that center bolt 1st, and not the top bolt.
 
#8 ·
tackling this on Saturday with a buddy. Looks easy enough as long as I can get the tensioner loose with the LBZ's fan shroud intact. Seems like it'll double the time for the job if I have to start pulling that shroud like I did to replace the tensioner...

But given that I already did all the hoses last June, I think I'm familiar enough with the area (just pulling the pulley will feel new). Also, having added a cooler and had a new steering box installed last march, it'll just be the HB left...hoping that guy holds out a while, it's not cheap and I want to get a canopy someday.
 
#9 ·
Went well. Buddy was there for 2 hours, took another hour to reassemble, then one more to good and test drive.

Pulling the air box and pipe from the intercooler have me room to get a breaker bar on the tensioner.

Note: don't be dumb like me and put the pulley on the new pump before moving the bracket. But now I'm good with the puller/installer :l

I find it ok to get the hp hose started with my arm by the battery.

Keith
07 classic silvy. 2500HD LBZ, CCSB, 4x4
 
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#10 ·
No more droning/whining sound (was most audible between 1000 and 1500 RPM), smoother/easier wheel turning and a better feel in the brakes, good stuff all around!

Keith
07 classic silvy. 2500HD LBZ, CCSB, 4x4
 
#13 · (Edited)
Installed a new PS pump today.
The steering is actually stiffer than before the pump was swapped.
The pump is quiet. I don’t think I have air in the system… but could I have air in the system?
 
#14 ·
I went through the bleed the PS system routine as if I replaced the GB.
It made the steering stiffer.
I tried to flush the PS system.
This is something I’ve done a dozen times.
Once I had everything set up started the truck went through the procedure about a half dozen times without getting any fluid from the HB return fittings.
Typically I start getting fluid out of this fitting within a minute at most once the procedure is started.
I put the HB return line hose back on, took off the HB pressure hose fitting coming from the pump directing it into a quart bottle. Started the truck and got fluid. It didn’t seem to be under any great pressure either.
I am suspecting I have a bad new pump.
 
#15 ·
Last update
Installed another new ACDelco PS pump which fixed the problem.
 
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#16 ·
new ACDelco PS pump
That' the way to go, new OE....or was the 1st a reman?
 
#17 ·
Both were new ACDelco pumps 20756713.
Along with the second pump I added a new PS pulley 19304020 and the newer PS pump pressure valve 26095470.
The pressure valve was sticky in the pump bore even after I cycled it 50 or more times. I didn't use it. It was sure to cause a problem if I did.
 
#19 ·
Might be on your end. I see two exploded drawing images.
 
#20 ·
Darn, I see no pictures. I need to replace my pump and both high pressure lines and figure I might as well add a cooler while I'm at it. Trying to research for the most cost effective parts and method of doing it.
 
#21 ·
Maybe use a different browser?
 
#22 · (Edited)
I just looked at this again in both Google and Firefox. The pics come up in both perfectly.

I did this a week or so ago and the original write up was right on for my LMM.

I did find that I could not pull the pulley until I removed the pump and I had to press it back on prior to installing the pump due to the inner radiator shield interfering. I also cut one arm brace for that inner shield, with a vibrator cutter, to give me more room to work reinstalling the bolts. Since the entire shield is cast hard plastic i do not believe I seriously weakened it to any significant degree.

I took the advice to put the center front bolt in first but I had trouble rocking the pump to get the other two bolts started though. I found that by installing the top side bolt second lined up all the rest perfectly.

ANOTHER Great How To thread by Hook. MANY THANKS!!
 
#24 ·
Where did you guys buy a OE AC Delco pump from? I know I can go to a dealer,but reading some reviews from ones bought from amazon they were worse then the one they replaced to begin with.Autozone stocks them to just looking for a genuine not a knock off

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
Look thru the Rock vendor forum, there's usually a 5% coupon code listed in there.
 
#28 ·
Awesome thanks! Your write up helped out alot,plus when I messaged you a few months ago when I rebuilt my front end and added a new gearbox your advice to add a PS steering cooler was clutch,haha.towing my travel trailer I had little to no brake fade and no burnt fluid.i replaced all hoses to gear box but #7 in diagram you posted would be the high pressure from pump to hydro correct,I may change that out just because I'll have the system open

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
#29 ·
Might also check out the PSC pump brand new and heavier duty.
 
#30 ·
These pics are with an LB7/LLY/LBZ.
GM part #15909827 (about $150 at this writing)

Remove the inner fender liner on the driver's side for access. Loosen clamps on the hot side CAC pipe couplers and remove. Remove drive belt from the PS pump.

You'll need a puller to remove the pulley AND reinstall it on the new pump. Most auto parts stores will either loan or rent the puller.

There are 5 bolts holding the pump on; 3 in the front (item 5 below, 1st pic), and 2 bolts (item 9) on the back (hence the liner removal).

Remove the two low pressure return hoses (items 1&9-2nd pic). Leave the one (item 7-2nd pic) High Pressure line going to the hydro-boost attached to the PS pump, remove other end from the HB unit.

With the pump off, Remove the mount (item 4-1st pic) on the front of the pump (3 bolts, item 7-1st pic) and xfer to new pump.

When you go to install the new pump, start the threads on that one HP line, leaving it loose, and snake it thru to the HB unit as you drop the PS pump back in. (It’s almost impossible to get those threads started with the pump installed....much easier to start the threads with the pump out).

Be careful with the ends of that HP line, as it seals with an O-ring (item 3) that is not available except with a new HP line.

When you go to bolt up, you're 1st thought will be to start with the top bolt in the front (item 5) and let it hang.
Wrong, the other bolts won't line up to start the threads. Start with the middle/2nd bolt hole as a pivot point, then install the top and bottom 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Move to the rear and install those 2 smaller bolts. Tighten HP line fitting that you left loose at the pump, install/tighten end at HB unit.

Press pulley back on, hang drive belt back, fill reservoir with fluid, no bleed/priming needed.

Since you are going to have all of that pulled apart, I HIGHLY suggest you install a PS fluid cooler to the mix. <This will save so much future torment and $$s lost, prolonging life of the pump, HB, and the two HP lines that seem to chronically leak.

How To: Add Power Steering Fluid Cooler
With this ^addition, the system will work fine with off-the-shelf dino PS fluid.

Not a fan of cheap remans and certainly nothing by Cardone.
Hate doing it twice, or thrice.
OE new part is 15909827...new has no core charge....not that much $$ difference vs a Reman w/core charge.




Do you know where to get the front mount? having a hell of a time finding it
 
#31 ·
Front mount??? I'm not following you.