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LMM PCV Reroute

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175K views 124 replies 60 participants last post by  rocky jenkins  
#1 · (Edited)
Here is a simple way to do the PCV Reroute on a LMM. Total cost is around $20. It takes 10 minutes to swap it back to stock configuration.

You will need approx 10' of 5/8" heater hose, 3/4 brass crimp tee and 6 stainless steel hose clamps. Also a 1 1/8" rubber cap, recommend a oil resistant/high temp cap (I used a barstool cap for now). Billet plugs are also available.

First start by removing the Resonator box with the "6.6" Liter on it. Then you want to cut the plastic tubing approx 3" back from the tee on both sides where it narrows so you can slide the 5/8" tubing over it. Then where the PCV line was attached to the intake remove that piece and cap it with the 1 1/8" barstool cap, hose clamp it.

Now cut a section of the hose and install it between those to pieces of plastic tubing that you cut and hose clamp it. Cut it in half and install the 3/4" tee and hose clamp it. You can reinstall the 6.6 Resonator box back over the plugged intake. On the other side install the remainder of the 5/8" hose and route it over to the drivers side and down the inside of the frame thru the holes in the supports. Recommend extending it past the cab. Zip ty it up and your'e done .

Keep the OEM PCV Tee if you need to put it back to stock form for smog etc. Easy to put back on using two 2" lengths of 5/8" hose.

Update (4/09/11) I recently installed the Billet Plugs in place of the barstool cap and rubber plug, both were still in good shape after a year. Just wanted something stronger and safer.
Photos below...


PCV KITS & PLUGS

http://www.alligatorperformance.com/part_finder_models.php?mID=19&cID=282

http://madjackdiesel.com/gm-duramax/diesel-race-parts/block-plates/pcv-re-route-kit.html


Sorry about all of the missing photos, Photobucket screwed us all by charging $400 per year to let us use them on forums!! I will fix them eventually. GrrRRrr
 

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#37 ·
Sarcasim? haha. but seriously..is not having the pcv reroute what caused all that?
 
#38 ·
Yes. Dude that's alot of nasty oil blowing thru your intercooler pipe. I would take it off and clean out both intercooler boots and reinstall after you do the Reroute.

Here is a link for the Billet plugs.

And another Link for Billet plugs and PCV Kit.
:drink
 
#39 ·
Ok thanks. I drive on very few paved roads so thats why everything is so dirty. But clearly there is some oil around there causing the dirt and mud to stick to it.
 
#41 · (Edited)
deleted
 
#42 ·
Did this mod earlier today, was such a simple mod I decide to take the intercooler tubes off and clean them inside and out..... yes there was plenty of oil in them but not any more! thanks wolfn8tr
Also I used the billet stuff from a DRP kit, great fit and finish.
 
#43 ·
No Problamo....:drink
 
#44 ·
WOLFN8TR

Your writeup said that the lines from the valve covers were 5/8 but you used a 3/4 t-fitting. Why not use a 5/8" t-fitting? Just wondering.
 
#47 ·
The 5/8" Hose fits perfectly over the plastic pipe from the OEM PCV line you need to cut. It also fits onto the brass fittings nice and tight. Got the fittings from Lowes.
 
#45 ·
how would someone go about cleaning out the intercooler, take it out?

I would assume simple green would be good I use it for everything out.

If you just clean the tube the oil that has collected in the cooler will eventually work its way back into the tubes I would think, plus the coating of oil in it I would think reduces it efficacy. So since I will have a bunch of free time I was tinking about cleaning out the cooler too.

How hard is it to remove?
 
#48 ·
Will this MOD throw a code in my truck with a stock tune?
 
#49 ·
Nope....

This is the first Mod I did to my truck when it was stock. I had oil all over the intercooler tube, now it's nice and clean! If you have smog checks make sure to put it back to stock config. Some check it some don't. Go with the Billet plugs, got mine at Madjacksracing. They have both plugs shown on page 1.
 
#50 ·
With the line coming out underneath the truck, does any oil leak out of that line while it's sitting in say a nice white paved driveway? Could you also do a catch can setup?
 
#51 ·
Not a drop. You could but not necessary.
 
#53 ·
cool thanks
 
#55 ·
When your pistons move up and down and compresses the mixture to be burned, some of the compression escapes from the cylinder, moving past the rings. As it moves past the rings, it picks up tiny droplets of oil from the rings, the cylinder walls, the piston and ultimately from the oil mist floating around the inside of the engine. This air, a byproduct of the compression and pumping process, is also sometimes called 'blow-by'. It creates positive pressure in your crankcase and must be vented to keep it from pushing out the air and oil mixture where you really don't want it to come out. So the usual process is to route it back into the intake side of the engine and burn it. In our turbo diesel engines, this causes a problem because after the intake air, which also now contains our 'blow-by' and the related oil, is compressed it is sent on a fairly long path from the turbo compressor, thru the intercooler, thru the intake tubes, and the oil settles on the walls of the intercooler and the intake tubes. And this oily air, when combined with the exhaust gas from the EGR system really makes a mess of both the turbo and the exhaust manifold.

When you do the PCV reroute, you are removing the air and oil mixture from the engine and routing to to the outside air, if you do it the most common way. This keeps the oil out of your engine but puts it in the air and pollutes the air. Another way to do it is to route the blow-by to a container where the oil and air can be separated (not perfectly separated, but most of the larger droplets anyway) and the air returned to the engine. And the oil is not put back into the intake of your engine, to make a mess of the intercooler and the intakes tubes. The oil from the blow-by is collected in the container and the container is emptied when the engine is serviced, most likely when you change your oil or when the container gets full.
 
#58 ·
#60 ·
2" test plugs are complete shit under the hood IMO. They just look like trash, but they are cheap and they do the job. Merchant Auto has resonator plugs for $8 and they look better than your ACE hardware run.

Just did the reroute on my LMM a couple weeks ago and I didn't bother with any T fitting cause it's stupid IMO. I just ran 2 hoses and zip tied em to the frame and done.
 
#64 ·
Just want to give an update on this....
Have about 10,000 miles on my pcv reroute and no problems. Checked everything over when changing the fuel filter and everything looks good! My interooler tubes are spotless on the inside, no more oily stuff.
 
#67 ·
That's not entirely true. If you reroute the PCV it keeps all the oil out of the EGR valve reducing the oily sludge build up. Yes you should really do both but I would at least do the PCV Reroute. If you have to smog your truck then blocking the EGR might not be a good idea.