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My Project

80K views 244 replies 29 participants last post by  sables91  
#1 · (Edited)
I decided to start a thread on my work which began the day after I bought the truck from the dealer. This is my 2nd diesel - I had an '07 Cummins 5.9 and modded it heavily, went through 3 trannies, and ended up trading it on a new GMC Sierra gas truck last year for my business.

Anyway, I got this white LML this past September and started with the little stuff - wheels and tires the first day, Banks CAI, Cognito UCA kit with Fox shocks among others.

I have PM'd Don and Ashley and one or two others and a couple of the vendors herewith questions and already I have had tremendous support and guidance, which is probably the underlying reason for these forums in the first place. Don encouraged me to post a thread on my process and I decided that if I could help any forum member in any way by doing so then I'd be happy to do it. So here goes.

The task I am attempting is something I have NEVER done before. I am very mechanically minded, but often bite off more than I can chew and get myself into all kinds of shyte along the way. The toughest thing I have ever done is replace a clutch plate on a 5 spd 1992 Toyota Celica GTS... alone... in my garage. And it ran pretty well for years afterward, so I can turn a ratchet if I need.

But this..? Definitely way beyond me. Especially with no instructions. So, I really need some help.
Please feel free to comment, chip in, donate, criticize, whatever... help, even. I still have lots of questions.

I am giving myself about 6 actual work days to do the work, and its not really "myself" its a diesel guy at a shop I really trust. His name is Jim, and he has worked on many LBZ's extensively, and the odd LMM a little, but never an LML. Did his apprenticeship as a diesel guy with a GM dealership (may not be a good thing :D ) The owner of the shop has a warmed up LBZ, & is a mate of mine, he did some of the work on my Cummins and maintains much of my business vehicles, and he is happy to have me work with Jim and let Jim get the experience of doing these mods using my truck as the test vehicle. Basically, its a big experiment being conducted by two idiot rookies who could destroy some really expensive gear in a minute. Fun!

So... Here's the game plan:
OUT COMES the exhaust, DPF, DEF tank, down pipe, up pipes, manifolds and about 80lbs of other unnecessary things I gather are not needed...
IN GOES new manifolds up pipes, down pipe, exhaust, Fuel Lift pump, and some other goodies.

In the first 2 days, Jim and I (me part time in between running a job site 8 miles down the road) got through the "OUT COMES..." part, drew blood a few times, and did not break anything we need to re-use. We did come up with questions which hopefully I have answered using Don's thread, but we shall see.

So here goes:

Wheel well liners out... Passenger side shows a clear path, but drivers side reveals a tough task ahead.

Image
 
#115 ·
OK, just drove home from the shop, and this truck feels smooth as silk. Like a new truck just like it was back in September when it had 21 miles on the odo.
Seriously.

The noise out the back will growl a little when I get on it a bit in the traffic here and there, but in the cab with windows up, quiet and no vibrations, all the bugs are out with one exception:

I really need someone to fabricate a better IC pipe that turns forward a little better/sooner/further before dropping to clear the secondary Brake booster cylinder (sits at about 8 o'clock under the master cylinder looking rearwards). In the mean time I have it zip tied forward to keep it clear, but I'm going to talk to Rick at ProFab and see if he can "Fab" up something like a "Pro" ;)
Then. this job will be perfect in my very humble opinion.

For what its worth, I am getting about 18.5 MPG around the city and a solid 22+ hand calc'd on the interstate at 75ish.
 
#117 ·
Last night I loosened the forward IC clamp and shoved the pipe well into the coupling all the way to maybe 1/2" from touching the Intercooler. Then after tightening that, I pushed the pipe into the turbo outlet another 1/2". That cured my rattle problem and there is a solid 1/2" or more clearance between the IC pipe and the master cylinder, cylinder. Do that and I think you will find peace and contentment!
 
#116 ·
I have that bracket completely removed with no attendant issues. The pipe seems stout enough, although I might look to supporting it as well, but not with that iron thing. That piece limits your dexterity in an area nearly devoid of finger room.
There might be another way to shore up the coolant hose without that awful casting being there...
 
#121 ·
#122 ·
DHD did em and they said they made a one piece hot side pipe to that sounds pretty convincing!


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#127 ·
Haven't seen that yet, but just looking at the tube, it doesn't go nearly far enough.
I would want the pipe to go all the way to the manifolds...This short pipe looks like it connects to the factory Y-Bridge, am I correct? Further, why is that air valve still there?? I guess for EGR equipped vehicles, anthough the pic clearly shows the EGR coolers missing and plugged. Finally, that funky plastic coupling is still there. I believe that thing would only make a decent 9mm quick draw target, little more.
I think they should have gome from the Intercooler to the manifolds with a 2 or 3 piece pipe.
 
#124 ·
Yeah I have been talkin to them I think he said there shipping orders Monday.


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#126 ·
No it doesn't, I got those pictures from their fb page I have to of these kits in the mail now for the work truck and my personal.


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#130 ·
Ur right it is the factory y bridge! I was told they couldn't get a bigger one in there because there is not enough room. Guess the cp4 sticks to far back in the valley and to close to the turbo. I thought it looked a little cleaner than the factory piece. DHD= dirty hooker diesel aka allseasondiesel performance


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#131 ·
Any of you guys have videos of what ur trucks sound like with all These mods? And what are your egt's under normal driving circumstances?


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#132 ·
I'll try get a vid early this week. When I first finished the work I checked EGT's at WOT and I really was struggling to get up to 1,200 degrees. Those headers from ProFab are really good for low EGT. Under normal conditions as a daily driver on mild tune I'm somewhere between 300 and 650* When I tow it goes up a little, but remember I'm in Tampa, FL - the biggest hill in sight is the Sunshine Skyway bridge with a total elevation gain of about 90 feet. So EGT's aren't going to really climb much here.
 
#134 · (Edited)
My attempt to make a video.

HERE'S THE LINK I don't know how to embed it.

Let me qualify this by saying this is a quiet exhaust. Most people will probably not like it saying "too quiet". I personally like the sound of the stock LML exhaust - its really quiet. My truck does make some noise. I have a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust with a MBRP Quiet Tone 36" muffler.

In this video I ran at 4/5 throttle and saw about 950* EGT and the traction control was engaged. The tune is as always set on MILD.
 
#135 ·
HERE'S A VIDEO I don't know how to embed it.

Let me qualify this by saying this is a quiet exhaust. Most people will probably not like it saying "too quiet". I personally like the sound of the stock LML exhaust - its really quiet. My truck does make some noise. I have a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust with a MBRP Quiet Tone 36" muffler.

In this video I ran at 4/5 throttle and saw about 950* EGT and the traction control was engaged. The tune is as always set on MILD.
is this on youtube? the link isnt working on my computer!

what should i type in IF it is on boobtube
 
#140 ·
x2 on another vid!
 
#141 ·
Sway bar links

So, I have a question. The noobness will become evident again now... :eek:

In a few months (when my current crappy Nitto Terras exhaust their incredibly short lifespan), I am getting a lift and tire size and brand upgrade. Probably Fabtech or BDS of the 6" or 6.5" range depending on the brand. In the mean time, I am doing the next round of upgrades which will include sway bar links and tie rod sleeves, and some other minor things.

The question I have is do I have to put off purchasing and installing the sway bar links - probably RCD - until I have the lift and know the size? I'm guessing "yes", right? Also, I'll be wanting tie rod ends which I'll do at that time, right?

Thanks
 
#145 ·
So, I have a question. The noobness will become evident again now... :eek:

In a few months (when my current crappy Nitto Terras exhaust their incredibly short lifespan), I am getting a lift and tire size and brand upgrade. Probably Fabtech or BDS of the 6" or 6.5" range depending on the brand. In the mean time, I am doing the next round of upgrades which will include sway bar links and tie rod sleeves, and some other minor things.

The question I have is do I have to put off purchasing and installing the sway bar links - probably RCD - until I have the lift and know the size? I'm guessing "yes", right? Also, I'll be wanting tie rod ends which I'll do at that time, right?

Thanks
Hey Bro, the Fabtech kit uses stock length sway bar ends. I have a write up on it in my thread
 
#142 ·
You will need to wait on the lift and see how it uses the sway bar links. Need to get it installed then measure so you get the right length in links. Don't do like I did and install a 4" lift, and order the 4" lift links. They were too short. I had to send them back and get the links for a 6" lift, even though I only installed a 4". Different lifts use different methods...

Specify the tie rods. If you want sleeves, no need to wait. They can be installed now, and used after the lift is installed. If you want to do completely new tie rods, then I would wait until the lift is installed. Again, different lifts require different cuts on the tie rods.
 
#144 ·
Build looks great! I WISH I had all your performance parts..All I've done thus far to mine is CAI, 5" DP Back and Tuner..And they were a task! Anything you would for sure recommend? Planning on AD II fairly soon.
 
#146 ·
Something arrived on the doorstep today... :thumb

Later than expected, so the truck is booked in Tuesday for the install and new tires. The next week will have some new additions to post here, including the BDS lift, passenger side IC pipe, replacement pyro to work on my Edge CTS.

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#148 ·
LOL. The dealerships loss. Its a GM bed cargo rack system. Folds down as you see it there where its can be used as a bed divider - they slide forward and back. Then they rotate up and lock to be ladder racks each holding 500lbs. The included it in the deal when i got the truck. I think its a $1600 package... something like that. I wasn't sure when I first got it, but I use it at least once a week so its been worth it.