Based on the size of your oil drain plug, not all sockets are the same exact actual size. So if you have another socket, preferably a 1/2" drive, try that. Leverage is king so add something to extend your handle. Make sure you are on the plug absolutely straight. Pull evenly. Eventually, it will turn. If not, you need a longer handle.

There are sockets that are supposed to put the turning pressure a little away from the actual points of a socket and that saves the edge of the bolt/plug. They are expensive, but not nearly as much as an oil pan.

 

If you have the right size socket, you’re not going to round the plug off with a 6 point unless the plug or socket is badly worn.

 

Impact socket and impact driver slow until it comes loose

 

I have an L5P. But could be same drain plug? I had one that I guess I tightened a little too much but the bolt was very weak. I used my Knipex pliers (the best if you don’t have any) and they worked great. Then I replaced with a magnetic aftermarket PPE plug. I think it was like $20. I’ve changed oil on trucks and equipment probably a few hundred times in my life. I can say I probably did overtighten some but the plug must be of soft steel for the threads to grab and to be rounded so easily. No problems with PPE stainless as of yet.

 

The plug is purposefully manufactured to be softer than the pan. You want the bolt to give in before the pan does.

 

I had the same problem twice w a dealer oil change. I do believe it’s the same plug

 

So.. no “shock and awe” of powered tools. But do use heavy gloves..

buy a 1/2 pound of dry ice. Using proper safety, chill the heck out of the plug… Carefully!!!! smack the plug with a ball peen, then use proper socket and “breaker bar” to remove.

 

Gotten bolts off before doing that EXCEPT I use a can of air tuned upside down. Does the same thing except more efficient and with the small tube can freeze bolts in seconds.

 

Purchase a bolt out socket set. It's got teeth that will grab the stripped bolt and remove it. Then replace drain plug. I've done this.

 

If the engine is at operating temperature (which it should be anyway) it would break loose easier.

 

The correct amount of C4 solves all, well, most of, life’s problems.

 

Hmm...Would you use a shaped charge for that?

 

Tough angle to try to get it on the bolt but 50/50 acetone/ATF is the best break free I've used.

As mentioned earlier, I'd get the oil up to operating temp to get some good heat into bolt and then try to loosen it.

 

Thanks for all of the hints and different things to attempt. Will report back on what worked.

 

Try liquid wrench first.

 

AERO KROIL works WAY better !

 

That is why I always change to a fumoto drain valve less hassle

 

Get a good socket and breaker bar, it will break free. If it is stripped, use a pipe wrench and it will come right off. New plug. It should not need a new pan.

 

Update: got engine up to temperature and used breaker bar and the got the plug to break loose and the oil changed. Thanks for all of the suggestions. Before did this got two replacement plugs if this ever happens again but really think going to get a Femco drain plug like had on the Cummins instead.

 

Anyone know the name for the "precision fit" sockets that Ron Neilson mentioned for moving the pressure points?

 

They are from Snap on, its called Flank drive. Doesnt touch the corners. They were the first with this, but its been copied, i wouyld look for a cheaper version. I have the snap on for over 25 years, never strip anything, nver rounds off.
With a new bolt you should be fine. Always put a little oil on the rubber backside so it slides to torque. I have had them get stuck going on dry. You will always be consious not to over torque, trust me! be well

 

Not sure what you used / already have, but 6 point vs 12 point socket is a good idea where there is concern about stripping.

And is it metric or inch? (can you tell I haven't done an at home change on mine yet?)
Sometimes using a 'will fit' can create problems. Especially if it is 12 point.

6 point doesn't give as many easy 'fit it on' options if using a johnson bar, but with todays ratchets with the smaller angle between click this shouldn't be a problem.

 

 

I just replaced my lower oil pan today. Not too bad. Only $86 from dealership

 

I had the same issue, do my own changes so no one else to blame. Resized the bolt to 9/16th and it was still too soft to turn. Put a vice grip on it and it spun right out. Replace the plug with a new elastomer washer and flanged bolt and it works great with a 15mm 6 sided socket now.

 

For those that aren’t using an impact the tighten the drain bolt… but are having issues with the bolt rounding over are you using and open end wrench or 12 point by any chance?