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Write Up: SDP LML EGR Delete

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271K views 144 replies 49 participants last post by  USMC1302Colt  
#1 · (Edited)
Write Up: LML EGR Delete

When doing the EGR delete you will either have to modify your stock up pipe (cut and weld), or buy a new up pipe (sold separately).

If you are installing an exhaust at the same time then this will be much easier. Installing a new down pipe is also a good idea while the old one is out.

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Step 1: Remove passenger side inner fender well. Turning the wheels to the left will allow more room for the install.
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Step 2: Disconnect exhaust somewhere near the middle. This will allow you to slide the front pipe back enough for the down pipe to come out. If you are installing a new exhaust system, remove it completely.


Step 3: To remove the front pipe, disconnect the V band clamp connecting it to the down pipe.
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Step 4: working from the engine bay. Remove the plastic "6.6" intake resonator. 3 bolts hold this in place.
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Step 5: Remove the air intake elbow with flat head screw driver.
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Step 6: Remove turbo heat shield. 3 bolts hold this piece on. Reinstallation is optional.
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Step 7: Remove the silver "S pipe". 9 bolts hold this in place. Disconnect all sensors/plugs. Twist lock ring and pull out the "s pipe".
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Step 8: Remove the EGR hot pipe. 4 bolts hold this on.
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Step 9: Remove turbo inlet pipe and PCV connection on back.
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Step 10: Remove the down pipe. First, loosen the v-band clamp on the turbo side. The down pipe may still feel tight. Take a flat head and pry around the clamp. Remove the 3 sensors on the down pipe.

Step 11: Working from the wheel well, remove the down pipe bolt from the tab on the up pipe. Remove down pipe.
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Step 12: Remove up pipe riser heat shield. 2 bolts hold this on.
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Step 13: Removing the Up Pipe. This is the hardest part of the delete, so make sure you have a good breaker bar and impact sockets. You will need a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the 9 bolts that hold the factory up pipe in place.

I've high lighted the 3 areas where the bolts are. Each section has 3 bolts holding the up pipe in place. Imagine the down pipe and riser heat shield removed. The bolts are behind those...
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Step 14: Start by removing the 3 bolts on the exhaust manifold. Section 1. Keep gasket.
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Step 15: Next, remove the 3 bolts that connect the riser to the EGR. These can be accessed from underneath. Section 2. The gasket and bolts will not be re used.

Step 16: The last 3 are the hardest to remove (section 3). You won't be able to see much so most of it will be by feel. You'll notice a metal coolant line in front of one of the bolts...the hose will have to be loosened and pushed aside to access the bolt. Loosen the one bolt and push to the side.
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Step 17: Remove all 3 bolts from section 3. Unplug the sensor from the riser section. Remove the up pipe.
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Step 18: If you bought a new up pipe or are using a lb7 pipe then skip this step. Cut the riser section off the up pipe. Using a piece of metal weld the hole shut.
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#2 ·
Step 19: Disconnect coolant hoses from firewall.
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Step 20: With all of the hoses and sensors unplugged you can now take out the egr cooler. It may be easier to remove in 2 sections. (7 bolts hold the cooler in place). keep bolts and gaskets.
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Step 21: Now you are finally ready to install the delete kit!
Start by installing the blocker plate using existing gaskets and hardware.
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Step 22: Trim the "L" shaped hose to desired length. As you'll notice, there is one end that is lightly larger. This end will go on the metal tube connection. Tighten with hose clamps.
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Step 23: Install the longer coolant hose. Tighten with hose clamps.
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Step 24: Re-install new or modified up pipe using factory hardware and gaskets. Tighten to 42 ft pounds. Using a high temp anti seize is also a good idea!

Step 25: Re-install turbo inlet.

Step 26: Re-install intake elbow.

Step 27: Re-install "S pipe" and all plug connections.

Step 28: Re-install down pipe.

Step 29: Re-install exhaust.

Step 30: Re-install fender well.

Start truck and check for leaks. Check coolant level!

:gearjamin

**If anyone's interested in the Intercooler pipes, here's the write up I did for them...http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/506994-write-up-sdp-lml-intercooler-pipes.html
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#3 ·
Excellent write up!
 
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#4 ·
When you do the intercooler pipes and delete the grind heater have you noticed any trouble starting it up in the cold. I know do here its not real cold but just seeing about what problems might come up with the grind heater delete.
Also these write ups have helped me a ton
 
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#6 ·
The grid heater doesn't get deleted in the tuning. The throttle valve does which is for egr purposes. Without a grid heater on cold starts it will knock and bang a bit louder and probably smoke more too.
 
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#12 ·
I am having an issue viewing the pictures you have posted anyone have any idea why?
 
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#16 ·
No problem man! I enjoy writing these sort of things! I hope it clears up a lot of people's questions and concerns on the install. If you follow the them step by step its honestly not that hard. I think I could go back and do the egr delete in about 4-6 hours now. It took me a few days to complete it because I stripped 3 up pipe bolts :/
 
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#22 ·
Just wondering if you guys have the up pipe cap available yet?
 
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#19 ·
One more question can I install inter cooler pipes with the egr still in?
 
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#26 ·
Excellent writeup! just finished mine up tonight using this as a guide. Thanks!
 
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#27 ·
This write-up helped me out a lot this weekend while I was doing my EGR delete....thanks to a great write up! :drink
 
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#30 ·
We just kinda shook and rotated mine till we were able to drop it out through the fender area
 
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#34 · (Edited)
You need to feel the struggle, and get the busted knuckles and tore up hands to appreciate the EGR delete :rofl
 
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#36 ·
sub'd for when i do mine!
 
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