Suba Dub

 

Did another egr delete and intercooler pipes last night. Got it down to about 5 hours right now from start to finish.

 

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Has anyone replaced the drivers side up pipe on an LML? If so how did you get at the lower bolt on the turbo? I cannot get any tool on it to make it turn...At a loss right now. HELP

 

I have not replaced the driver side up pipe but I remember feeling it when I was doing the passenger side. I even accidentally took one of the drivers side bolts off by mistake, since you can't exaxtly see what you're working on. I know you can access all three from under the truck though....or at least able to feel them. Have you tried to go in from up top through the engine bay?

 

It's been about a year but if I remember correctly I had my friend in the engine hold the ratchet and socket tightly against the bolt while i cranked on it from the wheel well

 

Yes. I can get my swivel head 1/2 ratchet 12mm on the bolt. But absolutely zero room to move it. The head on the ratchet hits the bottom of the pipe...See pics

 

Try a deep socket to give you a little more length to move the ratchet away from the pipe or a very short extension. Remove the tire if you havent already, it gives you way more room to work with.

 

Have you tried one of these?

 

Well...There is still black bracket that holds some rubber hose?? That was getting in my way. I removed the nut holding that in place, pushed to the side and was able to get a 4" wobble extension in there for the WIN!
Thanks guys for the suggestions. Any tips on installing these new PPE pipes? Im willing to bet keeping the gaskets square while installing these REALLY suck??

 

I havent done a set of duramax manifolds so i dont know how muxh room there is but if you can, take some old bolts, cut the heads off and make some dowels. Cut them as short as you need and make sure to make a cut across the top of them so you can use a screwdriver to get them out.

 

Crossfire, I didnt do manifolds, just up pipes. The LML Manifolds flow pretty well to my understanding. The dowel idea is pretty smart. I think the hardware store carries some headless bolts I can use to hold the up pipe in place while I mount them. Thanks!

 

Even though I remembered most of everything from my other EGR delete, it was nice to be able to look back on this thread and freshen my memory on everything!!! Such an awesome write up...definitely a keeper. :drink

 

Did you have to drain Coolant before EGR delete?


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No, you don't have to drain coolant, just have some rags to catch what does spill out.

 

Can anyone give me some tips to remove 3 bolts holding the raiser of the up pipe? I know the bottom one can be removed from underneath, but I have a hell of hard time on the top two.


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Are you talking about where the up-pipe riser hooks to the EGR cooler?

 

Yes. You're right. The three nuts. I am having difficult time loosen those. There's not enough room for leverage. Any special tools needed?


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Nah...no special tools man, I think I actually used a combo wrench and a deep 1/4" socket on them, that's it. I just laid on top of the motor and cranked them off.

 

BTW, what's the small T shape piece in the middle?


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That is a support bracket that is located underneath the EGR cooler near the up-pipe, you will see it once you remove the EGR cooler. If you are still going to use the blocker plate for the riser like the one we discussed before, it is the bracket you will use to mount your blocker plate off of.

 

Appreciate your help, guys.


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Another question, the two probe on the top side of the downpipe, which one is post turbo EGT temperature sensor? Which one is NOX sensor? One is 17 mm, the other one is 22 mm.


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The 22mm is is the NOX sensor, and the 17mm is EGT.

 

Thought I would have done the EGR delete and PPE downpipe tonight, but turned out no progress after removed the three nuts. I couldn't get the downpipe and the L shape EGR cooler out. I tried to remove the heat shield but couldn't even get that out. And the EGR cooler is held by the up pipe raise because the three studs are there. Spent 6 hours but figured out nothing.


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So for the down pipe heat shield, once you take the three bolts out of it, try and pull it down and out from the passenger wheel well...just keep working at separating it from the downpipe, pushing the downpipe away, even if you have to bend it, it'll eventually come out...just takes some massaging. As for the EGR cooler, if you can't work it out, you may have to take it apart from the rear at the rear EGR valve wit the studs. There are four bolts connecting it to the EGR cooler, two on top and two are underneath (little bit of a pain), once you get them off, the main part of the cooler will come right out and then you can work the EGR valve out. On my 13, I was able to pull it all out at once, but I couldn't with the 16. I tried for a good hour or two until I gave in and pulled those bolts at the EGR valve.

 

Just separate the two coolers. Everything will come out easy then.

 

I'm not around my truck right now but what's in the way that you can't get to the last bolt? I can't remember it's been a while since I did this but I don't remember any major road blocks I ran into.

 

I took mine out in pieces.

 

It is under the EGR cooler with pretty much no room to work with. The bolt is so close to the cooler, I try regular combo wrench but couldn't even stick it to the bolt, I also tried crowfoot wrench.

 

Do you have any stubby wrenches? Like I said I don't remember how it got it out but there isn't anything that sticks out that I really struggled with. Is there anything else you can remove to make more room?

 

Tried that, no enough room for stubby wrench. Did you have to remove the four bolts I marked in red to get the EGR cooler out as well. I don't think there's anything I can remove to get more room because that bolt is under the EGR cooler on the inside.

 

No I didn't remove those. I split the two coolers and took them out separately. Doing that gave me enough room to pull the rear cooler and egr valve out together.

 

I ended up taken the last bolt out with a 12 mm brake line wrench with a 90 degree opening. Now I just have to massage the downpipe out. Fxxx, there's coolant all over the place.