First off of you just change the fuse out to a higher rating you just asking for issues. Plus the wire will become the fuse. Second to get 100 amps of current your going to have to run so 1/0 or maybe 4 gauge out the the back to the trailer. The owner trailer wiring is limited to 40 amps and the wire is there for that and not able to handle over double the rates capacity. Even if you got all the wiring swapped out to handle the 100 amps of current the computer may also come into an issue. Not sure if the BCM will allow it to happen with some sorta of re programming it so it doesn’t flip out think the regulator is not working correctly. But why do you need 100 amps of current charging ability for the trailer? How many amps are you drawing from the trailer? Wouldn’t you be better off adding a generator in the trailer to handle that type of power consumption? To me I wouldn’t want to have that much of a load coming off of the truck to power to power a trailer. Basically turning the truck into a big movable generator. Just add a generator either in the truck bed or in the trailer and call it a day. Plus that if something bad happens power wise it would take of the generator and not the truck if things really went to chit

 

Not giving you a hard time as this is your truck and trailer…..

I can’t understand why you would need 100 amps in any mobile application unless you are setting up a mobile arc welding business.

To put this into perspective, I have one 100 amp service in my home which runs the heat pump for my pool. And, that 100 amps is to start the compressor. No such instantaneous load exists in a normal camper/trailer setup. On my previous camper, the built in onboard generator only had a capacity of 50 amps which would run both A/Cs and power the entire camper including charging the batteries at the same time. So, in essence, a 100 amp circuit of any kind would be complete overkill.

To my knowledge, there is no circuitry (read: wiring) installed in any Duramax truck that would support a 100 amp circuit and as Mc4Life has pointed out, to carry that sort of load would require wiring that is not resident on these trucks. As someone that worked as an electrician in a previous life, installing any sort of 100 amp circuit in one of these trucks, even if it could be done, would be dangerous.

How did you come up with a circuit that would require 100 amps for a trailer/batteries when the standard 40 amp that is available is more than sufficient?

 

100 amps on a 12 volt dc system is not much, the starter pulls much more than that cranking the engine and the dual battery buss circuit I believe has a 150 limiter on it. I agree that this going back to a trailer is excessive but 100 amps for a house circuit is complete different than a 12 volt dc circuit. Amperage dictates the size of the wire, in the case of 100 amps the minimum wire would be a 4 gage depending on the length of the wire. Likely the best gage would be a 2 with the length involved. The ability to do work is the wattage which is volts x amps. On a 220 house service a 100 amp circuit would be able to generate roughly 22,000 watts, on a 12 vdc circuit you would only generate 1,200 watts. Big difference in what the circuit can do. Dean

 

@XCD ,
I can't help you, but I know someone who can.
Oh, and simply put, you're going to have to run wiring to handle that much current.

Paging Dr. @jdwarren ...

 

Thanks Viper. But I believe this is a duplicate post and I provided an answer to the other one here.

 

Ah, yes it is, closing thread. You da man jd...