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Thanks, Bevo Lover! Good write-up.
 

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I am considering such a set up on an 07 Kodiak with a camper. Really don't know whether an LLY or LBZ as it shows manufacture date of 12-06 and vin shows LLY code but it does not have the pac type exhaust brake or the air compressor. Has 6 speeds and the transmission brake.
In looking over your write up, it appears there would be several problem areas for me.
Don't believe I can remove the tank hose at the connection. May find a connection on the long frame rail or just be forced to cut the line. As there is plenty of room along the frame rail, maybe cut the fuel line then slide a rubber fuel hose over it and connect it to the first filter head. Run the fuel out the opposite side of the head and connect it with the pump. Run the fuel out the pump and thru the other filter. That would eliminate the loop you discussed and have only short hose runs between the head and pump. Does the heads have a bleeder valve on top allowing the air to be removed from the filters?
The next issue seems to be the wiring harness. I have not located a plug in the oil filter head to install the pressure switch. Can it be operated without this switch without causing any problems? I realize the pump could not be hooked directly to the battery and run continually but how about connection to a fuse that only has power when the ignition is turned?
Thanks again.
 

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Must be on your end. I see 'em.
 

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I don't see the pics either.
 

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I see them just fine
 

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love this write up, thank you. Just out of curiosity what are the threads on the actual pump? I'm getting a list of items I'll need to do my install.
 

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The threads on the Kennedy pump and filter housings are 1/2" NPT. I recently installed this system and although we haven't seen him around here in several months I'd like to thank Hook'em for his inspiration. I made a few changes from his original design: I had a sheet metal shop bend up a new longer SS bracket for $30 which was cheaper than using a local welder. I plumbed the pump directly in-line by using spacers to offset the one filter housing out by 1 1/4" eliminating the long loops of fuel hose. The oil filter housing plug is 1/2" NPT and located on the top and side of the oil filter housing. You'll need to use a propane torch to loosen the red loctite on the plug but the operation was not difficult. The hardest part of the whole job was removing the fuel line on top of the fuel tank. After installing the Lisle removal tool I found it best to use a pair of vise grips to get a straight pull on the 45* fuel fitting.
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Reno do you think the scissor type removal tool would make the fuel line above the tank any easier to get off?
The type he is using the in pictures is the type I use everyday for fittings like that. They work the best, IMO.

If you can even just drop the tank down a few inches, getting that line off is MUCH easier. All I did to drop mine down far enough was disconnect the filler neck hose from the tank and take the tank straps off.
 

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I don't think you have the room to use the scissor style tool. I also purchased the Lisle disconnect pliers to help push the removal tool into the fitting however the jaws were a little narrow for this particular fitting so I had to file it open a small amount to fit over the secondary flange. After a lot of effort and wasted time trying to grasp the fitting and pulling on it I found the simplest and easiest way was to use vise-grips and twist slightly, push slightly and then pull. Adjust the vice-grips just enough to hold on without crushing the fitting.
 
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Great writeup guys. I'm doing the same install, with a water separator before the kennedy pump then using the stock filter housing and tp3018. Are you guys having any trouble priming this system? Does it prime ok since the wix filter housing do not have a bleed screw?
Also, i was thinking of installing a fuel sump at the same time instead of using the stock pickup. Any thoughts?
 

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If you install the two shut off valves before and after the pump you can reduce spills and prevent drain-back when removing the filters. When changing filters I make sure I have a full tank of diesel which gives a little head pressure to help with initial priming of the pump. I pre-fill the the two filters at the pump with diesel to reduce the amount of air going into the pump. I purchased a brass insert fitting and metric adapter which threads into the bleed screw hole at the factory filter head. With a short length of tubing into a clean container I manually start the pump and empty the fuel and air in the lines and prime the factory filter at the same time. Once all air bubbles are out turn off the pump and replace the bleed screw. You could also thread a small bleed valve into one of the unused 1/2" ports on the Wix head which would eliminate pre-filling the filters and would extract all air at the pump. I have no experience with a sump so cannot offer an opinion.
 

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Attached is a write-up made by someone other than me a few years ago. This should give anyone wanting to do their own lift pump some ideas. For sure, put shutoffs on each side of the filter(s). There is a handy pin on the MBEC that is hot when in start or run and I believe it is fused at 15 amps. I used a simple relay in my circuit to carry B+ to the fuel pump, quite unnecessary but that's what I did.
 

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If you install the two shut off valves before and after the pump you can reduce spills and prevent drain-back when removing the filters. When changing filters I make sure I have a full tank of diesel which gives a little head pressure to help with initial priming of the pump. I pre-fill the the two filters at the pump with diesel to reduce the amount of air going into the pump. I purchased a brass insert fitting and metric adapter which threads into the bleed screw hole at the factory filter head. With a short length of tubing into a clean container I manually start the pump and empty the fuel and air in the lines and prime the factory filter at the same time. Once all air bubbles are out turn off the pump and replace the bleed screw. You could also thread a small bleed valve into one of the unused 1/2" ports on the Wix head which would eliminate pre-filling the filters and would extract all air at the pump. I have no experience with a sump so cannot offer an opinion.
Thanks Reno! Do you recall the bleeder thread size? Also, I have gone ahead and replaced two of the culprit hoses on the fuel supply line. When disconnecting the hose under the truck near the transmission no fuel came out. Is that normal? I was anticipating getting soaked while i fumbled getting the new hose on but zero fuel came out.
with that said I am planning to replace the filter head on block, install a fuel tank sump, wix filter head with 10 micron water separator then the Kennedy pump then push to the new stock filter head with racor Filter.
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